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just a question, I plan on getting the 2005 altima 2.5. Making sure I got this right, I gut the precat, and move the O2 sensor to monitor emissions behind the main cat? Would that not mess with the engine tuning? Or does the 2nd O2 sensor only monitor if the cat is working?
 
ptrcd003 said:
just a question, I plan on getting the 2005 altima 2.5. Making sure I got this right, I gut the precat, and move the O2 sensor to monitor emissions behind the main cat? Would that not mess with the engine tuning? Or does the 2nd O2 sensor only monitor if the cat is working?
Right you are. Take the second o2 sensor out of where it is now, and install a bung plug (size and thread: M18x1.5) to plug the hole. Have an exhaust shop weld in a second o2 sensor bung behind the main cat. Extend the sensor wires and screw the sensor in there.

The only purpose of the second o2 sensor is to monitor if the cats are working. The first o2 sensor controls engine tuning, and you don't need to mess with it at all.

Make sure you do the butterfly thing as well.
 
Are there any similarities if I have a QR18DE? I had to change the precast on mine because I was getting the SES light. My precast looks different. (3 way Cat)The precast has a different exhaust for cylinders 1 and 3 and a different exhaust for 2 and 4. I wish I could post a pic that does not have URL.

My precast was half good. In other words one side was damaged. When I say damaged I mean it was completely gone. This was due to a engine coil malfunction. The previous owner did not bother to change the coil and he drove it like that. Crude fuel was going into the cylinder and then to the precast. The OEM precast was very expensive. If I had seen this post before I would have try to another alternatives.

Thanks for the post.
 
my buddies spec-v made it to 94,000miles before the screws decided to fly in his intake. we pulled it apart like a month after it went wrong to see the damage, heres a video we made after we pulled the intake manifold apart and found out the butterfly valve made it all the way to the head and lodged itself inside the head, but the car ran perfectly fine. i call this pure LUCK

02-05 QR25DE Butterfly Valve Recall
 
sentra_gris said:
Are there any similarities if I have a QR18DE? I had to change the precast on mine because I was getting the SES light. My precast looks different. (3 way Cat)The precast has a different exhaust for cylinders 1 and 3 and a different exhaust for 2 and 4. I wish I could post a pic that does not have URL.

My precast was half good. In other words one side was damaged. When I say damaged I mean it was completely gone. This was due to a engine coil malfunction. The previous owner did not bother to change the coil and he drove it like that. Crude fuel was going into the cylinder and then to the precast. The OEM precast was very expensive. If I had seen this post before I would have try to another alternatives.

Thanks for the post.
The QG18DE isn't affected by either the precat or the butterfly issue. The QG precat is still prone to the occasional failure, but it's very unlikely to destroy your engine when it does.

beezonmyhead said:
my buddies spec-v made it to 94,000miles before the screws decided to fly in his intake. we pulled it apart like a month after it went wrong to see the damage, heres a video we made after we pulled the intake manifold apart and found out the butterfly valve made it all the way to the head and lodged itself inside the head, but the car ran perfectly fine. i call this pure LUCK

02-05 QR25DE Butterfly Valve Recall
Luck indeed. Wonder where the screws went...? Does he burn a lot of oil?
 
Just got done doing my recall fix hopefully this can help someone else.

1. Called up nissan dealer and they refused to help me with my butterfly screws since my car is a 2002. I asked them if the motor is the same in the 04+ then why isn't 2002 covered? They couldn't say.

Asked them about the pre-cat issue. The guy said he had to go look it up then never called me back. I called again and asked for the same guy, got put on hold then no answer after 15+ minutes.

F*** nissan.

2. Decided I needed to take things into my own hands since my car has 55,000 miles and I pound it out quite often...didn't feel like having my motor blow.

Red loctite on the screws...the walkthrough worked perfect. one thing I should mention is that I had to take out one extra hose...it was a coolant hose to get the plenum off the runners clean. Took about 1 hour taking my sweet time.

The headers are a pain. Coming from someone who works on honda, this motor layout is a joke. Couple of hints for those doing this:

A. You will have to take off the alternator to reach exhaust manifold bolt 1. Make life easy for you and use an open ended wrench to release the auto tensioner, then brace it against something. Use a stick to hold the belt from slipping down after you take it off the alternator pully.

B. The heatshield bolts are numerous beyond belief. You can pull the header off from the top by taking off the main heat shield (4 bolts) and the bottom heat shield (6 bolts). You may have to take out both o2 sensors to worm the bottom shield out. You can then pull back the radiator and get the header out w/o taking out the radiator fan. There is also one very irritating hard to see side bolt holding the header in. go over the center brace with a extension to get to it easy. Some bolts will be stuck. get out your penetrating oil and douse and let it sit. Be very careful with the o2 sensors after you get them out.

C. If you are putting in an aftermarket header, then make sure you have a spark plug anti-fouler 18mm. You can get this at any parts store. I used two, on on top the other to recess the sensor far enough for the SES to clear. Be sure you use the gaskets they come with for a good seal.

If you are gutting out your header, then get a long screwdriver and a rubber mallet. My precat was showing signs of crumbling when I looked through the hole where the o2 sensor goes. I caught this just in time. put the screwdriver in then tap it a few times. use some muscle. eventually you will have it come out in chunks. BE SURE TO WEAR A GOOD MASK. I had a ****ty one and I had a headache within 30 minutes of doing this. I used a compressor to blow out all the dust and leftover debris. Gutted cat FTW

Unfortunate for me, I think I need a new header gasket. I thought I could reuse the metal one like I did for my previous car but now I have a very slight leak I think...might be the doughnut though since I resued that (it was still cherry) but forgot to bolt it in tight. also follow the FSM for the torque specs and order to put the manifold back in.

Took about 2 hours or so due to every single damn bolt being rusted shut and the fact that many bolts are in weird angles which make it VERY VERY HARD to get to them with fat hands like I have. Very frustrating since I'm used to doing 1 hour header/downpipe installs on my old integra.

I will see later today if that was the problem. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask me since the whole thing is still fresh in my mind right now.

If it turns out that I have to redo the whole thing to change the header gasket, then I will consider doing a complete step by step write up and post it up for everyone.

EDIT: REMEMBER TO GET NEW GASKETS! (INTAKE MANI + MUFF BEARING) SAVE YOURSELF THE PAIN LATER!
 
butterfly screw size? Need fasteners?

Though it may be mentioned in this thread ( if so I appologize) does anyone know what size the butterfly screws are - mm, pitch, length.

Those zince plated phillips pan heads look pretty sh***y.

Anyone had any problems with them stripping out?

I manage a local fastener supply shop in western Kentucky, so being a newbie to this forum I'd like to contribute, that being said, if anyone needs ANY type of metric fastener, no matter the diameter, pitch, length, head style (hex, socket, flat, button, even shoulder) finish (either plain black oxide coating, very susceptable to rust, or zinc coated which is a little better) and grade (8.8 is comparable to a mild steel like gr 5 or A325, while 10.9 is a hardened alloy like a gr 8, and stainless is available to even though its higher than hell these days!) I CAN GET IT ALL!

Being centrally located in Kentucky means I can ship any where conus and you'll see it in 2-3 days. Plus I'm not some jerk off tagging you with extra freight to make a buck, I get a sweet UPS discount because I ship nationally.

Basically, I'll work harder to find you ANYTHING you need better than ANY Nissan dealer anywhere, just email @ brenton.hallden@yahoo.com with your request, or post it on this forum. Group buys would be cool too, as min. order quantities are very common on non-stock items.

I also sell any type of tool be it pneumatic, hand or power, and all types of supplies like ant-sieze, thread lock, break cleaner, Blaster, you name it, I do it.

Like I said, this info is my way of hopefully contributing to this forum and to all of us who have a passion for Nissans (I'm on my second, my 240sx suffered a hit and run 2 years ago while parked outside, had to sell her)
 
^ You may have your first customer here...

I decided to do the butterfly screw locktite thing today, and GUESS WHAT! #4 butterfly is just plain missing. I'll be making a thread about it here shortly...

Edit: Here's the thread
 
jr24se-r said:
i have a 2003 sentra se-r ( non-spec) my question is thier any warning signs or any way to tell if my butterfly screws a bad? or how much does the service cost to get it check out?
There is no way to tell without taking of the plenum. You have to see it and maybe play with it a bit to see how tight those screws are or if the vibration has shaken them loose. If you have an 03 I think you are out of luck and the dealer won't help you like they did to me. unless you pay of course. **** that it's easy to just do it yourself than get ripped by the dealer. Either way they just put in new screws. it's better to just loctite them down so they are sure to never come out. Get it checked asap.
 
im new to the imports scene and my 03 spec v is my first import car where I used to work 3 people had them and they brain washed me to buy one so I did and i put a header and locktite the butterflys and its been and awsome car i have 113k and it runs like day one i always change the oil every 2800 miles with mobil 1 and i keep my throttle body and MAF sensor clean although im only 19 i baby my car and ive learned if you take care or your cars they take care of you ............. just a thought
 
ok I just replaced my precat at a cost of 440.00 because I noticed oil consumption at 150,000 miles on mt 02 SE-R non spec-v. now with the new precat I still noticed oil consumption. So i picked up an 06 altima engine to put in my car. with the oil consumption I had since I put the new precat on my car (around 1,000 miles ago) do you think that the new precat will be okay to use or will there be a problem from the oil blow by that was created from the oil consumption, because I guess to much oil consumption is bad to for the precat causing it to fall apart which I definetly do not want to happen. I kept my old precat. should I break out all the old cat material in it and use it. if so how would you move the second o2 sensor. do you cut and slice and lengthen wires.
 
Discussion starter · #234 ·
64dodge540 said:
I kept my old precat. should I break out all the old cat material in it and use it. if so how would you move the second o2 sensor. do you cut and slice and lengthen wires.
Use the stock exhaust manifold without the cat (gut it). I wouldn't take any chances.

Instructions on how to move the 2nd O2 sensor is in the first post of this thread.
 
If any of you haven't done this repair....DO IT NOW

Nissan really screwed up w/ this one. I have an 03 spec w/ around 75k on it and im already on my second engine due to a cracked cylinder at 65k. I hadn't had time to make this repair on the new engine and now, roughly 10k into an engine w/ just +-30k on it, I have lost two butterfly screws into the cylinders, and the precat is cracked....possibly scoring the cylinder walls w/ particulates from recirculation exhaust. :eek: :eek:

I am a grad-student in college and bought this car 4 years ago because i was under the impression that the japanese manufacturers made reliable cars, up to recent times nissan made cars that were just as good as hondas and yotas. Trading it in isnt even an option because w/ my school schedule i cant hold a job during the school year, so i cant make payments. At this point the car is nearly a total loss, and I may be parting it out in the near future, i'll update anyone on that because the rest of the car is in near-perfect condition, and i know many of you guys may have need for non-engine parts.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here? Is it even worth the money to replace the pre-cat and the butterfly valve assembly? I need RELIABLE transportation. I know i can fix it, but my mechanic, (family freind and really good at his job, doesnt nickle 'n dime or BS) says he can make the repairs but he doesnt believe it will be reliable.:(

I could use some input from anybody willing to give it. :confused: :(
 
New Engine Under Warrenty!!!! but have a ?

Last year I got a new engine under warrenty, along with a new catalytic converter, exaust mainfold, and flywheel (cuz they couldnt get my flywheel off). This was because of the precat issue and i had 59890 miles so i was 110 away from the ned of my warrenty :). But my question is... if I got a new catalytic converter and they told me the remanufactured new engine came with the locked screws, Im wondering if i still need to get a ehader? or should the porblem be solved with the new engine?? and if so any suggestions on a header with a apexi ws2 exhaust?? Thanks.
 
So what I'm wondering is: What are the chances of pre-cat failures on other engines, such as the VQ and QG in the long term? Is it possible for the material inside the kitty to break lose over time and get sucked back into the engine on those too?
 
which header is best with catback ws2??

Does anyone have any suggestions on a good header that would go with ws2?? I have serached around for a while and only found a someone who said the dc header and xs power were pretty good but i dont know if its best to get the full header package and then be catless???
 
specvrider06 said:
Does anyone have any suggestions on a good header that would go with ws2?? I have serached around for a while and only found a someone who said the dc header and xs power were pretty good but i dont know if its best to get the full header package and then be catless???
I hear the hotshot header is good as well.

I just saved me the $300+ and gutted my stock header. cost me $3 for the spark plug anti fouler (to recess the o2 sensor)
 
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