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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Weekend Install - Part 7 - Brakes *56k

Finally got all my parts together. Looking to get it all on by Sunday night, if all goes well. Kind of curious just how easy the rotors will pop off. I don't have any of that 'PB Blaster' everyone talks about, but I have plenty of WD-40. ;)

Parts are as follows. I'd also like to thank Fluid1, Greg V from Quality Nissan, Ken from TPM, and Larry from Carbotech for their help in GB's here on the forum, their prices, and customer support. I will comment on the system within a week or so once the seasoning/bedding process is done with.

1. TPM cross drilled/slotted rotors (see: www.racingbrake.com )
2. Carbotech Bobcat front/rear street/track brake pads (see: www.ctbrakes.com/ )
3. CROWN stainless steel brake lines ( Greg V here on the boards at Quality Nissan )
4. MOTUL 5.1 brake fluid



I've been reading up on the installs people have done but I might have some other questions as the install goes along. Just figured I'd share in my joy that everything has arrived and it looks like a GO for my butt to get going on the install. Wish me luck. :)
 

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Get speedbleeders! Get the Russel ones from Summit Racing, that's what I have and they make the whole brake line swap process a cake walk!

Also watch out for the retaining clips on the ne brake lines, the ones that keep the line attached to the strut. The new clips tend not to hold the line. I thought I had mine in check until I came home one day and heard the brake line rubbing the tire as I made a turn. I finally broke down and used zipties to ensure the line would not pop off again!

Other than that you should be set. Did you grab the grease that you put on the back of the pad shim? I think there is also some stuff that you put on the surface of the pad to keep them from squealing. I am not sure if you need these two (I used both and my pads are still loud), but I would be interested in seeing what you use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the suggestions. maybe i'll postpone my install if you think those pieces/parts will help. i have zipties here, but i'm not aware of any grease or where to get the speedbleeders. i'll do a search and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
PelayoSPECV said:
how much where the rotors ??
i paid $256 for the set of 4. i bought them through the GB that Fluid1 set up here on the forum. i think Ken might be setting up another if there is enough interest. otherwise, i think they retail for like $3-400 for the set...maybe more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i haven't started yet. i needed the car last night to go out for some BEERS so the car is out on the front lawn waiting to get into the garage. my sister is visiting with her fiance and future mother in law from North Carolina this weekend and there are cars everywhere. I'm hoping to start sometime this afternoon if i can get to Pep-Boys for the speedbleeders Cburwell recommended. with memorial weekend coming up i'll be busy doing other things, including Auto-Xing so i want to get them on ASAP.

it appears that Pep-boys carrys the same Russell speedbleeders. i'll see when I go.

can't wait. ;D
 

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El Burro
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cburwell said:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=RUS-639560

those are the bleeders I have, you will need two boxes since two come in a box.
chris, how do those things work? Couldn't you just bleed the system yourself by just attaching a hose to the bleeder and into a bottle?

I've never done a brake job on my car yet, but I'm planning to soon thats why I'm asking.
 

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baby GT-R said:
chris, how do those things work? Couldn't you just bleed the system yourself by just attaching a hose to the bleeder and into a bottle?

I've never done a brake job on my car yet, but I'm planning to soon thats why I'm asking.
Well with the stock bleeders you have to open the bleeder, pump the pedal, close the bleeder (while the pedal is still on the floor) so you don't suck air into the system, then pull the pedal off the floor to pull the new fluid into the system.

With the speed bleeders you just "activate" the bleeder buy unthreading it about 1/4 of a turn. The SB has a little ball inside of it that opens and closes the bleeder depending on where the brake pedal is. This amkes it a ton easier because you don't have to keep opening and closing the bleeder since the little ball takes care of that.

I was able to bleed my clutch line by myself without a speed bleeder and it took about 30-45 min. With the speed bleeders on the bakes it took me about 30 min to bleed all 4 corners. To me they were well worth the $20 I spent on them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok, i've got all 4 rotors off. next is the stainless lines and fluid. in what order / procedure do you recommend i take off the old lines and put the new ones on...

1. drain fluid ? (fully, not fully...don't want air in the lines...
2. remove OEM lines and plug ends with something ( what happens to the fluid at this point? )
3. drain brake fluid resevoir ( i have a pump to get it all out )
4. fill resevoir with new MOTUL as required while bleeding brakes
5. done?
 

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It doesn't matter in what order you put the new lines on. The only thing that matters is the bleeding order.

You don't have to drain the brake fluid, actually you don't want to. Just keep and eye on the fluid level as you are swapping the lines.

Once you have the new line on then bleed the brakes. It shouldn't take long before the new, clean fluid comes through.

At no point should you need to plug the hard brake lines. Just swap the new brake lines in as fast as you can. It is messey, but it is the easiest way.

1) Switch old brake lines for new ones,k working one corner at a time.
2) Check brake fluid level each time you swap a line
3) Once all of the new lines are on put some new fluid into res. and begin to bleed the brakes.
4) Every 5-6 pumps you are going to need to add more fluid to the res.
5) Done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks Cburwell....i appreciate it. i have a minor problem that i'll try and show later in a pic that i'm dealing with now. for example, i just came back in to get my dremel. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Fun Fun Fun

ok, took A LOT LONGER than I expected it to. mainly because I was preoccupied with other things going on in the house and it's my birthday (24th). my sister was visiting with her fiance/mother in law and people running around. I started somewhere around 3-4pm and finished at about 11:15pm or so. obviously this isn't a typical install time for this. for numerous reasons, some explained ahead, it took longer. here is my HOW-TO and general pics.

will need:

1. 17mm wrench / socket
2. 14mm wrench / socket
3. 12mm wrech / socket
4. 10mm wrench
5. 19mm wrench / socket
6. hammer - big one
7. brake fluid
8. rags
9. torque wrench
10. some BEER
11. liquid wrench / wd-40 / or PB Blaster (which ever you have)
12. 11" gear puller (not needed by all - I DID need it)

(this is not necessarily the EXACT order in doing this. as it was my first time doing it, i've found better ways to do the install. take my description with a grain of salt)

1. jack car up and place on jack stands
2. remove wheels
3. take a 14mm wrench to the front/rear brakes as such:

4. take a 19mm wrench to the front / 17mm wrench to the rear as such:

5. remove the pads:

6. with the pads removed, apply a generous amount of your preferred solvent. make sure you also get from the rear of the rotor. there is limited space to work with, but do your best to cover the rear of the rotor with the solvent.

rear of rotor -

7. this is where i differ than many - living in the NE the weather tends to destroy daily driven cars, mine is no exception. i soaked the rotors in solvent for a good 30min or so spraying repeadedly over that time. as time lapsed i also took my ~4lb hammer to the rotors to help knock them loose. that was a dead end road. they didn't move a hair. i then decided to use the same idea we use on pulleys, a puller. i went to my nearby Sears Hardware store and picked up the largest one they had. IT WORKED GREAT! the phucker was on GOOD. i can't imagine the stress i put on it, but this is very dangerous to do and i recommend a lot of caution.

what happens is you're preloading the rotor with the pressure from the puller. but they don't just pull off, the corrosion is so great that i torqued down the puller as much as i could and then hit the rotor from behind with the hammer. the rotor shot right off with a lot of force. BE CAREFUL. obviously the BFH would be ideal, but these rotors were practically seized on. anyways, here is the rest:

8. rotor off, clean surfaces and bolts.

9. with the rotors off, now begin the install of the lines. take a 12mm wrench to the line bolt on the caliper

10. take a 10mm wrench to the top of the line

11. Brake fluid will come out. Do your best to mimimize exposure of the fluid to your hands, arms, eyes, etc. this stuff can be problematic for some with skin irratation and its just not good in general. Remove the clips from the lines at this time. Keep an eye on the brake fluid resevior. Make sure it always has fluid in it, otherwise as the fluid exits during the lines install you'll let air in the lines...thats not good.
12. install the new lines in reverse order. for me, the expensive Crown lines come with a crappy *** middle attach point. the OEM one is far superior. I can't imagine Crown test fitting these lines on a Sentra and saying "yep, that's perfect" because its not. I ended up zip-tieing them as such. i also used the OEM clip, but its by no means like the OEM lines snugness.


*see next post*
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
13. install the parts from the first steps in reverse order. be sure to place the ROTOR on first before attaching the calipers.

14. attach all equipment - pads, calipers, etc.
15. bleed brakes lines now with new fluid.

DONE! :)

*rears - sidestep - you don't need to do this if you're not using a puller. its only a dustcap.
(i'm aware of the ODD wear on the rear. i will post pics of the reason later. Cburwell - the cause is the reason for the Dremel earlier)
-take off dust cap

- like this

- and remove


return back to previous steps for fronts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i'm going to bed NOW. i'll answer any ?'s in the morning if possible. gotta be up for work at 7am....going to be a rough and long Birthday for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i'm not sharing anymore. it appears to be in vien. :( i'll let anyone who's interested in the setup how i feel about it later in the week once its broken in.
 
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