[SuperAkuma]

Recommend me some good componets where you are able to mount the tweets on the woofer. My price range is about $250 ebay price.

The only one that I seen so far is the mb quart pce 216 which goes for about $250 or so on ebay.

 

[Gandalf]

Check out CDT EF converubles. You can find them sometimes for around $250. Or try used/for sale on CarAudioForum.com they have alot of good CDT stuff floating around usually

 

[Shaved01SE]

Memphis M-Class Multi-sync Convertable Components (15-MCSQ6.5) (http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/details.asp?id=9). They're f u c k i n awsome!!! I only paid $240 for mine and they came with a 3 year unlimited replacement warranty from Memphis.

 

[civiceater]

Focals are what I have. 165v slims Polyglass

 

[SpeC-V_Freak]

Try some ID chamelions on for size.
I didnt know the PCE's had that mounting option.
If it was between those two, I'd probably get the chamelions.
DO NOT get the 2 ohm version though. They blow chunks.

 

[ViBlue-SE-R]

i've read CDT braxials and ID chameleons in this post and i agree with both, definately worth the money.

 

[SuperAkuma]

Try some ID chamelions on for size.
I didnt know the PCE's had that mounting option.
If it was between those two, I'd probably get the chamelions.
DO NOT get the 2 ohm version though. They blow chunks.

Why not the 2ohm one? I was kinda thinking about the 2ohm one because I can get a cheaper amp for it.

 

[SuperAkuma]

I just got a really good deal on CDT ef-61cfi/25 comps. $190 shipped on the zeb they go for $420. I was told this was the best EF series cdt makes but this is the speical edition that use the tweets from the HD series.

I dont know if I can pass this up, I know the tweets dont mount to the woofer but man, this is a really good deal.

 

[SpeC-V_Freak]

The only thing I would buy from CDT would be the HD series.

Think about the 2 ohm version. Have you ever heard of 2 ohm components before?
I've heard both in an AB, and there was a noticable difference in clarity/crispness between the two. The 2 ohmers seemed to break loose at high volumes where as the 4 ohm version did not.
Dont even think baout skimping on an amp for those, they can handle some serious power. I'd consider looking into a 4 channel amp you could bridge to send them each about 200 RMS.

 

[SpeC-V_Freak]

Why are you so stuck on going on axis anyways?

 

[SuperAkuma]

Why are you so stuck on going on axis anyways?

cuz right now I have the m3 comps and I cant install the tweets because I cant get the F%&# wire to run from the stock tweek mounts down to the car and jump the wire from inside the car to the door.

I know I should just pay someone to wire them for me. But I want a new system with better mids and might as well get them where I can install them easly. I guess ill have to pay someone to fish the wire when I get the CDT

 

[SpeC-V_Freak]

Thats a pretty [email protected] reason if you ask me.LOL. J/k
Its not that hard to wire at all once you take your a pillar off. In fact, I think its much harder to properly wire for the doors.
Anyways, here is what I did to finish off my tweets, and its completly reversable.

 

[thumper10s]

boston boston boston

 

[truraza]

Dropping the wire down is not hard, make your life easier and put the X-ver behind the glove box, you only need to run one wire into the door that way.

Installing wire through the doors, just pop out both sides of the boot and use a wire hanger or a cheap snake from home depot to put it through.

The tweeters are easier. Pop out both the pillars and look where the factory wire runs through, if it makes it easier use a heavier guage as the guide wire and start from the top, on the passenger side it is fairly easy. on the driver side you may have to lay on your back and look up to see the "light" (no snickering) it takes some time but it is not too tough.

Good luck.