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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I drive a 2003 Sentra Spec V with the Rockford Fosgate Audio Fanatic Package. I recently blew that crap paper "Rockford Fosgate" 8" sub that comes with the factory Audio Fanatic Package (waste of money, I know). I took out the sub box and started wiring my old amp I pulled from my closet...Got everything set up except RCA's and Remote wire...I don't want to buy a new head unit, I just want to run an easy install.

My questions are:
1) What do each of the individual colored wires on the factory sub wire harness do (color label each wire)?
2) What alternatives do I have to run my RCA connection and Remote wire other than buying a new head unit?

I couldn't find the answer to that anywhere online. I use to be really into car audio in High School, but I lost a lot of hearing installing some high powered set ups (Helped my buddy drop in almost 10,000watts into his Blazer...he Plexiglassed the whole damn vehicle...it was sick). I just wanted to drop in my old setup so I have a little more thump than the factory crapper. THANKS!!!!!
 

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melly mel said:
Get a Line Out Converter. This will splice into the rear speaker wires from the head unit and convert them to RCAs.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XwAxkt1aMoo/app/product/group/productmenu.aspx?search=LOC&skipvs=T&g=721
his h/u does't have an internal amp therefore he does't need to splice from the h/u speaker wires as they are line outs. he could spice the rear speaker wires from the audio amplifier.
as to the amplifier terminal callouts:
connector B51 (white)
1,2,3,-,_-,__4,_5
6,7,8,9,10,11,12

sub connector B28 (white)
1,2,3,4

1 R/B rear sp RH (+) output (parallel to B28 terminal 2)
6 GY/L rear sp RH (-) output (parallel to B28 terminal 1)
2 Y/G rear sp LH (+) output (parallel to B28 terminal 4)
7 W/OR rear sp LH (-) output (parallel to B24 terminal 3)

5 & 12 W/R battery
4 & 11 B ground

connector B52 (white)

13,14,_-,_-,15,16,17
18,19,20,21,22,23,24

13 purple amp (remote)
22 OR/L rear sp LH (-) input
15 OR rear sp LH (+) input
21 L rear sp RH (-) input
20 OR/R rear sp RH (+) input

or spice RCA's to the above 5 wires
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok...I want to make sure this is correct, as I haven't ever had a reason to rig together a stereo...Usually run everything from the head unit.

Is this the correct wiring?

1 Red/Black---------Right/ +
2 Grey/Light Blue----Right/ -
3 Yellow/Green------ Left/ +
4 White/Orange------Left/ -
Remote is Purple from head unit

I already ran 4g through that small hole in the passenger side firewall (easiest install I've ever ran, took 3 minutes from engine bay to trunk) and have 12" of Ground...Also, is there an internal amp inside the factory sub box? If all four wires on the sub harness are speaker wires, how is the internal amp powered? How does the internal amp get it's accessory turn on (remote)??
 

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i cuurently have a mtx 8" 5500 in the stock location. what i had to do it remove the sub, and all the electrical stuff inside and then stuck sub wire through a hole that i created. after doing that, i epoxied the hole shut and then wired it to the amp. as for the amp, if you really really want to keep your factory one (which i wouldnt) just get an rca module like the ones people are talking about above and wire it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well that's not quite what I'm aiming for. I originally wanted to just get another 8"...but I put in my old system. It's a mid 90's Memphis 1100D (True 1100 watts digital...very clean when it's wired right) and 2 Crossfire BMF 12" DVC in a Bandpass. It cranks when it's at full power, but I'm aiming for like 1/8 original power...it sat in storage for like 5 years, just want a little more bump than cheap factory sub.

Ok, so I ran the power, ground, and remote with no problems. I cut an RCA cable in half and will resplice it tomorrow (didn't hook it up right...sounded like crap, really garbled, and then it blew a fuse in the fuse box under the hood and that was pretty much it for the day.

If I have any more problems, I'll message back! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok....stupid factory setup

New problems all the time--

Alright...so I got everything wired and hooked up. Amp powers up perfectly and has a solid power flow. I cut a pair of RCA's to run from the Factory "Rockford Fosgate Audio Fanatic" 8" subwoofer to the input of my amp. Their are two positive outputs from the sub wire harness, but either ground puts my amp into protection. The same thing happens when I run the positive of my RCA cable to either rear deck speaker...once I touch the ground to the ground of the speaker, it shuts my amp into protection mode. I can run the amp with just the power, but it blows what I guess is the factory amp fuse in the under the hood fuse box (20amp fuse) when I turn my sub amp to only 1/2 power (anything over obviously blows the fuse very quickly).

My question to anyone with any useful information...Is there a way to run an aftermarket amp from the factory headunit? Mind you, there are no RCA's and there is 0watt output from this terrible special RF headunit. I have a solid background in car audio and have installed many setups, but never have had to try and rig an amp what-so-ever, or run an amp in a system that has no output from the headunit. That makes it a lot more complicated than it ever needed to be...Crazy Nissan, what will you do next.

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED---blew the factory 8" long ago...it was already starting to go when I first got the car!
 

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Turns out the red and white ones are the 2 positive and the orange are the ground which made sence cuz the red n white are ofc(full copper) indicates positives in the one case because both the orange are not copper at all which tells us theyre the ground. So i got the dual 4 ohm skar 8 and ran it on 2 ohm which will bump less because that original sub is at 1 ohm. So therefore shoulda bought a dual 2 ohm put it in parallel and got full potential.... point is red and white go in the positive and the 2 orange go in the negative...simle as heck youre welcome
This will help someone one day lol
 
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