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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I'm pretty new to car audio mods, so any input would be greatly appreciated. This is what I have:

Alpine CDA 9833 HU
Alpine MRD 300 Amp
Alpine SBS-1041BP - 10" Type S Sub / Bandpass Box

I'm guessin there's about 150watts RMS @ 4ohms goin to the sub?

I have everything hooked up right (i think hah), and it sounds pretty good as it is right now.. but I really don't know too much about adjusting the amp to suit the setup.. all of the other speakers are stock, no audio package, and the stock sub is disconnected, but not removed yet. if anyone else has the MRD 300 amp, or can just give me some pointers please let me know.. thanks!
 

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SilverSpec04 said:
Hey, I'm pretty new to car audio mods, so any input would be greatly appreciated. This is what I have:

Alpine CDA 9833 HU
Alpine MRD 300 Amp
Alpine SBS-1041BP - 10" Type S Sub / Bandpass Box

I'm guessin there's about 150watts RMS @ 4ohms goin to the sub?

I have everything hooked up right (i think hah), and it sounds pretty good as it is right now.. but I really don't know too much about adjusting the amp to suit the setup.. all of the other speakers are stock, no audio package, and the stock sub is disconnected, but not removed yet. if anyone else has the MRD 300 amp, or can just give me some pointers please let me know.. thanks!

i have an m350, a bit more power, on sale for $125! if u want lol.
personally, i filter the bass amp @ about 70-75hz. then again, you wont see the full effect of this unless you're amping your door speakers too, in which case, you filter them at the same #, and after playing around with it a bit, have a damn near perfect sound stage.
i got an Alpine T320 2channel too if you're interested, $150, 3 months old. good component amp.
 

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Nice setup...what are you gonna get for interior speakers? I went with Infinity 6002si's in the door, and 6002i's in the rear deck. (note: the B15 has VERY limited space in the door panels; if you plan on installing speakers under the factory grills, you'll need shallow mount speakers! Otherwise, the speaker's magnet would stop the window from traveling all the way down.) The Infinity Reference Series sound dope without an amp, but I'm still planning on running a small 4-channel amp to them after I get my new head unit. I highly recommend them.
As far as pointers for a sound system, check out Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com). They've got a lot of information you need to know about building a system. I haven't been involved with too much on the mobile electronics install side yet (I've only done a few small installs; ie head unit, speakers, amp, sub), but I'm planning on moving into the install bay after I get MECP certified (hopefully they'll let me leave the sales floor!). Mobile audio/video is the only industry that interests me now...
 

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SilverSpec04 said:
if anyone else has the MRD 300 amp, or can just give me some pointers please let me know.. thanks!
You can adjust your gain to ensure your amp is putting out its max potential without going into clipping. Like Jasper eluded to, your X-over is important in the way your sub will sound as well. Play around with it a bit and see what you like the best. Depending on the setup, you'll probably want it crossed at 60-80 Hz, however I have my setup crossed over at 90 hz and it blends wonderfully. If you set your cross over too low (50 HZ) your bass will not be very well pronounced and it will sound like crap. If its too high (120 Hz) it will be extremely muddy.
Nice setup so far. I'd recommend unhooking the rears right now, getting a nice set of components for the front, and a decent 2 channel amp to drive them with. Since you are apparently going for an all alpine system, pick up a set of Type-R compoenets for the front for like $130 on Ebay.
You'll learn soon enough that with a sub in the trunk, you probably wont want to run acoustical rear fill.

Futz: Please dont post when you dont know what you are talking about.
A) There is such a thing as speaker spacers, there is no issue with mounting speakers in the doors within reason. 2K1 fit a set of Kodas
B) Crutchfield blows chunks for info.
 

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Nice setup. similar to mine. I have the same sub, the MRV450, Tantrum front and rears (6.5") but I went with the 9831, because I didn't need the HU power. I have fronts X'd at 120 and up no gain, the rears at 250 up no gain and the subs at the amp at 120 down 6db gain, I use the HU to control them somewhat. The sub box faces to the back of the trunk, it's a BP and is really boomy, I wanted it to resonate somewhat in the trunk before having it enter the driver cabin, side facing on the passenger side works well also.

I could have gone with more bass, but for some reason I didn't...not like the old days with my B13 and 4-12's.
Good luck.
 

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Freak:
I didn't state I was an audio expert. I was just throwing in my 2 cents from my own experiences. But, thank you for your feedback.
 

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Nuccin_Futz said:
Freak:
I didn't state I was an audio expert. I was just throwing in my 2 cents from my own experiences. But, thank you for your feedback.

You have to remember, if you post something, somone who does not know any better may take it seriously. What if he was ravaging around for very slim speakers for the front and was all paranoid about if they would fit or not?
Sorry for being a D*ck about it though. :cool:
 

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SpeC-V_Freak said:
You have to remember, if you post something, somone who does not know any better may take it seriously. What if he was ravaging around for very slim speakers for the front and was all paranoid about if they would fit or not?
Sorry for being a D*ck about it though. :cool:
no problem. i'm not butt hurt about it. i'm just here to learn more about the wonderful B15...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
truraza said:
Nice setup. similar to mine. I have the same sub, the MRV450, Tantrum front and rears (6.5") but I went with the 9831, because I didn't need the HU power. I have fronts X'd at 120 and up no gain, the rears at 250 up no gain and the subs at the amp at 120 down 6db gain, I use the HU to control them somewhat. The sub box faces to the back of the trunk, it's a BP and is really boomy, I wanted it to resonate somewhat in the trunk before having it enter the driver cabin, side facing on the passenger side works well also.

I could have gone with more bass, but for some reason I didn't...not like the old days with my B13 and 4-12's.
Good luck.

thanks everyone for the replies..

Truraza: when you're talkin about the X'n, does that mean it plays those frequencies and higher/lower than those? I'm real new to this stuff obviously.. if anyone feels like hoppin in and wastin 5 minutes of there life to give me a quick lesson feel free :)
 

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SilverSpec04 said:
thanks everyone for the replies..

Truraza: when you're talkin about the X'n, does that mean it plays those frequencies and higher/lower than those? I'm real new to this stuff obviously.. if anyone feels like hoppin in and wastin 5 minutes of there life to give me a quick lesson feel free :)

A highpass filter will let the high frequencies pass and it will cut off the low frequencies, it's used for your mids and highs to keep them from playing more bass than they can handle. A lowpass filter does the opposite, it's for your subs to keep them playing the low frequencies.

The frequency that you set the filters is up to you, I have my front speakers highpassed at 50hz and the sub lowpassed at 63hz.
 

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yea... those crossover points are a bit strange. a standard crossover point is 80hz, 120hz seems pretty high for the sub to be playing and takes away most midbass from the fronts.
 

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2001 SE #2 said:
A highpass filter will let the high frequencies pass and it will cut off the low frequencies, it's used for your mids and highs to keep them from playing more bass than they can handle. A lowpass filter does the opposite, it's for your subs to keep them playing the low frequencies.

The frequency that you set the filters is up to you, I have my front speakers highpassed at 50hz and the sub lowpassed at 63hz.
It must be nice having Kodas that can even handle a high pass of 50hz. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
:confused: another question.. the mrd 300 can push 300 watts @ 2ohms, but my sub is only 4ohms.. so i'm only gettin 150 watts.. now i can get a different sub that is 2ohms for the full potential of the amp, or maybe a dual-4ohm sub? i'm not exactly sure how you hook up a dual though.. is it pretty much the same?
 

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SilverSpec04 said:
:confused: another question.. the mrd 300 can push 300 watts @ 2ohms, but my sub is only 4ohms.. so i'm only gettin 150 watts.. now i can get a different sub that is 2ohms for the full potential of the amp, or maybe a dual-4ohm sub? i'm not exactly sure how you hook up a dual though.. is it pretty much the same?
you're exactly right

and to hook up a dual 4ohm sub to a final 2ohm load, you would wire the voice coils in parallel. This just means you connect the amp's + to the + on both voice coils, and the amp's - to the - on both voice coils.
 
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