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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here's my situation, I want to buy the new SE-R (Non-Spec V, I'm a cheap bastard), and am planing an audio upgrade for it.
I'm pretty sure the audio system it will have is the same 180 WATT from the current SE Sport package, since I wont be getting the Rockford Fosgate package.

My question is about the mount for the stock subwoofer. I dont want to put a box in the trunk, and having it in the back seat looks tacky and takes up space. If I could just remove the stock sub and replace it with a good 8" sub, i might do that, and save myself the cost of an enclosure.

My question is how far are the holes spaced for the stock sub, and is the mount strong enough to take a more powerfull sub.

Thanks
 

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Ya know... I was just going to measure that
thing, because I want to do the same thing,
but I keep getting sidetracked.

The mount should be strong enough, as the
entire rear deck is sheet metal.

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2001 Sentra SE, PP, 5-Speed, Sunroof.

PR CAI (in da mail), Kenwood KFC-1738Cs (in da back)
 

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Time Warp
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Ok, I'm telling you this from personal experience. The stock sub from an SE Perf Package is NOT 8". I swear once you take off that giant bracket that holds the sub and amp, it looks more like a 6 3/4 sub... if that even exists. I still have an unused 8" Pioneer sub from this little experiment.

You can try to mount a bigger sub on there, but remember that the magnet can't be too thick or else it's not gonna fit in that stupid little plate that mounts under the stock sub (and holds the amp).

IMHO, the whole thing is gonna be a PITA to do.

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Jae
'00 SE w/ some stuff.
There's no place like home...
 

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you could probably just modify the hole to get an eight to fit and run a small amp to it and mount the amp on the back of the seat....that's where my amp is.....

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys, since I dont have access to a SE, any measurements like the space between the holes would be great. So this plate thingy, can I get rid of it? I wouldnt be using a stock amp anyway.

BTW, I heard somewhere that the stock sub was like 7".
 

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Time Warp
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Don't know offhand about the distancing of the space between the holes. It probably doesn't really matter anyways. If you're going with anything bigger than the stock sub (trust me, you're gonna want to), then you'll have to drill new holes.

As for the plate/bracket thing, yea you could get rid of it if you're going with an aftermarket amp.

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Jae
'00 SE w/ some stuff.
There's no place like home...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, if I was going to drill holes anyway, would I be able to put a full 10" sub without anything under the back ledge obstructing it?

That wouldnt signifacantly degrade the sound, would it?
 

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Time Warp
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10"??? Damn, that's a little large for a deck mounted speaker! I'm pretty sure that something will get in the way under there. If the seatbelt pulleys don't get in the way, then the other rear speakers might get in the way. The factory hole for the 7" sub is really close to one of the speakers, I just don't remember which one. You're going to have to do some cutting to get that to work. Not to mention add some kind of dampening. That sucker is going to rattle like there's no tomorrow. On top of all that, the underside of the rear deck isn't exactly level and smooth. Lots of funny "valleys and ridges" under there. I say go to a dealership and take a look at an SE w/ PP. It'll give you an idea of what kind of project you're taking on here.

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Jae
'00 SE w/ some stuff.
There's no place like home...
 
G

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The stock sub is very close to the left speaker. You wouldn't be able to go much larger while maintaining the stock location. 8" would be the max. You also have to remember that the bottom of the rear deck isn't perfectly flat. It might be hard to enlargen the hole, and have a good sealing surface.

I like the rear deck sub install idea. it would keep the car more "stealth," and also preserve trunk space and save weight!

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2001 SE, P/P, 5 spd. Cloud White.
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One thing to keep in mind is that most (not all, but most) subs you will find after-market require an enclosure to get anywhere near decent sound. Most of the time, a smaller sub will require a small enclosure. So, if you mount a sub open-air (i.e. in the stock position), you will lose most of the sound quality/bass that you would get if you mounted it in an enclosure.

I've been going over this myself, because I don't want a huge box either. So far, the best idea I've had or seen was an Infinity Basslink powered sub. It's a 10 inch sub in its own enclosure (less than 1 cubic foot total), with an attached 200 watt amp. The nice thing about this sub is it will accept speaker level inputs (as opposed to line-level, which would require you to upgrade the head unit as well). All that you would need to do is run power to it from the battery.

I think this is the route I'm going to go, since you can get the sub on line for around $260 (it sells for $399 - $499 in stores). Install (if you don't do it yourself), should run about $50.

Just food for thought.

Eric

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