[Eelybot]

I recently had my 60K checkup for my Spec, and asked the dealer to investigate a rattling noise I was getting. It's a rapid ticking noise that happens as the car gets warmer, and can only be heard when the car is still.

Anyway, here is what the tech wrote:

"Tech found noise to be coming from harmonic balancer. Balancer is very wobby. Balancer is an Aftermarket balancer.

Tech removed drive belts and removed balancer for inspection. Tech found key on the crank was not lined up properly with the balance. Has been incorrectly installed. Key is damaged and has been shoved into crank and key does not have much material. Recommend removing lower pan and eng cover to replace crank key."

I installed an SWA pulley w/ some friends, and I don't remember aligning any sort of key. The report says that I have an aftermarket balancer. I thought the balancer and pulley were different. The car isn't rattling anymore since I got it back from them, so I guess this explanation is at least partially right? I just wanted to make sure I'm not getting swindled before I wind up dropping over $700 on this repair. Let me know what you guys think.. or if I have any other avenues to approach this prob.

 

[metalhead]

harmonic balancer?
that sounds like balance shaft to me.....am i wrong?

 

[pugnex]

The crank is MASS balanced, some argue for or against the fact that the pulley is a harmonic(sound frequencies) balancer and when removed can damage the crank and bearings.

You can read lots about the subject here:
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonictech/tet/dualratedamper.html

and

http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/pulleys.htm

 

[cburwell]

harmonic balancer?
that sounds like balance shaft to me.....am i wrong?

The crank pulley is commonly called the harmonic balancer, I think it comes from muscle cars which use the pulley to balance the crank and absorb vibrations.

I don't know if your crank pulley is different, but my crank has a raised area on one side and I had to match that up to the corresponding cutout on the pulley. Maybe you didn't torque the crank bolt enough, or the pulley somehow worked it way off the crank snout a little? This may have caused the vibration/noise. I would give it some time and see if the problem comes back.

 

[Ash33]

sounds like BS... the key is the alignment block cut into the crank it can't slide out into the block... Even if it was separate,, the bearing would prevent it from going through... If you pushed hard enough to offset the bearing then i think you should arm wrestle Goldberg for a million bucks...

 

[Eelybot]

The crank pulley is commonly called the harmonic balancer, I think it comes from muscle cars which use the pulley to balance the crank and absorb vibrations.

I don't know if your crank pulley is different, but my crank has a raised area on one side and I had to match that up to the corresponding cutout on the pulley. Maybe you didn't torque the crank bolt enough, or the pulley somehow worked it way off the crank snout a little? This may have caused the vibration/noise. I would give it some time and see if the problem comes back.

Thanks, I didn't know the pulley was the balancer. Anyway, the reason I took it in was for the rattling/ticking noise. Since they gave the car back to me, that noise is gone, and everything "seems" to be running fine. The issue now is whether I should replace the crank key as they adviced. Am I looking at seriously damaging my engine if I leave everything alone?

 

[pugnex]

Thanks, I didn't know the pulley was the balancer. Anyway, the reason I took it in was for the rattling/ticking noise. Since they gave the car back to me, that noise is gone, and everything "seems" to be running fine. The issue now is whether I should replace the crank key as they adviced. Am I looking at seriously damaging my engine if I leave everything alone?

It's a highly debatable issue that I don't think any of us can answer. Only the engineers who designed the engine will be able to tell us if the stock crank pulley is vital to the engine design.

 

[NISMO82]

i thought the motor was internally balanced?
yes there was a key on the crank..

 

[adc100]

It's a highly debatable issue that I don't think any of us can answer. Only the engineers who designed the engine will be able to tell us if the stock crank pulley is vital to the engine design.

Bingo.

 

[pugnex]

i thought the motor was internally balanced?
yes there was a key on the crank..

OMG, did you read any of my first post???

 

[NISMO82]

OMG, did you read any of my first post???

i did now. chill out. i was saying I though it was internally balanced

 

[pugnex]

i did now. chill out. i was saying I though it was internally balanced

Lol, I'm just partially kidding. Yes it is internally balanced, but there is more to the whole equation than just mass.

 

[Eelybot]

So, in you guys' opinion, you would say it'd be okay to drive around with a damaged crank key? Or shall I get this replaced as soon as humanly possible?

 

[SPEEDO]

the crank has a slot in it and the pulley has a slot in it, the key is a half moon shaped piece of metal. the key is like a lock to keep the pulley from spinning on the crank. the bolt that goes thru the pulley holds it to the crank but the key is what makes the pulley "one" with the crank. I have seen (do to improper installation) the key just chewed up the pulley and crank to the point where the crank had to be replaced. Now if you put on your pulley, you should be able to replace the key (the keys are cheap, .75ea)

 

[ClshRckr]

ah crap toby...

i would just drive around with it and hopefully the noise doesnt come back
maybe the dealer took the pulley off and then put it on again

 

[Eelybot]

Now if you put on your pulley, you should be able to replace the key (the keys are cheap, .75ea)

Are you sure it's that easy? The dealer said it was gonna be a pretty big job ($700) to replace the crank key.

Roger: You're right. The dealer took it apart, and probably put it back the right way.. so there is no noise right now.

The main concern is the crank key, and how much damage was done.

 

[Jasondt2001]

it's not that easy, the key is wedged behind the timing chain sprocket.
They would have to take that timing chain sprocket off or loosen it.
In front of that sprocket is the front crank seal, and that attaches to the
front case that would have to be taken off in which the oil pan would have to
be taken down.
If you want a detailed (well parts fiche) pic i have plenty of access to them being
i do this crap all day.. lol, give me ur email and i can send you one.

 

[Jasondt2001]

The key's part number is 00926-51600; they are $1.62. I have four in stock. If you're going to replace all of them, it requires three according to this.
(Go figure)

 

[Eelybot]

it's not that easy, the key is wedged behind the timing chain sprocket.
They would have to take that timing chain sprocket off or loosen it.
In front of that sprocket is the front crank seal, and that attaches to the
front case that would have to be taken off in which the oil pan would have to
be taken down.
If you want a detailed (well parts fiche) pic i have plenty of access to them being
i do this crap all day.. lol, give me ur email and i can send you one.

Thanks for the info. My email address is [email protected].

Say, I noticed you're from Salinas. Do you happen to work at MY Nissan?

 

[yellospec-v]

So is this problem from improper install or because he changed the stock pulley?