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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so today i received my christmas presents i gave myself on the 24th

OBX Header - $195 bucks







OBX Twin Loop muffler - $70 bucks


ARRRRRRRRR






The reason why i chose the OBX over the Hotshot. It costs half of what the hotshot costs. ($420 in their website) Comes in stainless steel which looks pimp. welds look very good from a manufacturing standpoint. i took picture of the header from every possible angle and of every weld in case it fails later, ill have a before and after. ill post more later.

The reason why i chose the twin loop is because i have heard from people who own it that its a very quiet muffler. so yeah.

From what i read from Immoble this header looks exactly the same as the hotshot so it should fit. Sentradrive2005 says that it fit his 05 qg so it should fit mine also. I will keep my stock exhaust for now except for the whole muffler area and the catalitic and resonator are gonna go probably in substitution for a long straight piece of pipe. if its too obnoxiously loud ill have a resonator welded on but im not gonna keep that wimpy stock one anyways. oh yeah i hope that muffler fits. armin says its not gonna fit.

i will update this post later with more pics and probably the installation pics when that's done.
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update 1/12/05

okay i got the header installed at pituala's shop. it took me from ~8:30pm till 1:30ish am. (i included clean-up time, breaks and putting-tools-away time)

-First off, this was a header installation for a QG18DE 2003-1/2 and up.
If you have a older QG you do not need to go through all this. You just have to do a bolt-on installation, however, newer QG's have a different exhaust setup which requires custom work to be done. Second, if you have a limited amount of tools i suggest you find someone to help you or install it for you. If you dont have 4 jackstands and a good jack, do not attempt to install using the stock jack.

I was not able to get a picture of every step of the way because my hands were really dirty or i was concentrating on the install but i did manage to get pics taken here and there.

Disconnect teh battery.



Take off the sheetmetal shrouds one by one to uncover the stock exhaust manifold. These bolts were rusted to hell and most of them snapped off. Get a bolt-out kit from sears for these bolts or youll get stuck really early in the process.




You want to disconnect the bolts on the bottom first, THEN unscrew the header bolts. For the shrouding on the bottom of the car i had to use a bolt-out kit because they were rusted and snapped right off.

As you can see on this pic, the nuts were stuck to the header bolts on the left port so they came out with the nut altogether.




I went ahead and released the nuts off the studs with needle-nose pressure pliers (vice-grips) and the ratchet wrench, added some anti-seize and drove the studs back in. (i actually did this last but what the heck)




This is the stock header. That cable coming off of it is the Oxygen sensor, you have to unscrew that carefully. A new one costs 80 bux so go easy on it ese.



Here's a side to side of the stock and the OBX. Notice the welded shut bung hole and the welded shut EGR bung.


Continued on post #5 of this thread.
 

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King of OT
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That muffler looks like a monstrosity.
 

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anyway looks nice... muffler is a bit big dont you think... keep us updated about the header (not that i care personally since i will have a turbo in my car in the year 2018.. haha) but just to prove all those nah-sayers saying that obx is garbage
 

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You better get extra gaskets from obx racing cause you gonna need them, I have that same exacty header and the thing still leaks, I took it to the shop and tried everything, they told me I needed extra gaskets for the manifold part of the header, and also it turns a blueish gold color lol! But other than that the gain is very noticeable!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
edit: continued instructions.


Let's talk about 02 sensors and the EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculator)

Older QG18's had 4 oxygen sensors and also an EGR valve. New QG's only have 2 oxygen sensors and NO EGR valve. (that's a good thing)

The OBX and hotshot headers were R&D'd (research & developed) using older model QG18's therefore, the headers they sell come with 3 bungs. We will only be using 1 of those holes for our 0xygen sensor so we will plug the other two. I opted to weld those shut and had Armin do it for me since he's good with the welder. You can buy Plugs at any exhaust shop. good luck with that.

In the next picture you can see the fabolous job we did patching them up. :)



Next is the Downpipe/Midpipe/whatever the heck youre supposed to call this i will call it the Midpipe.

Okay, so you take this pipe off and there's another oxygen sensor on it. Unscrew this carefully. Now you can do two things, either take it off and call it a day or you can cut a hole in your shiny new pipe and weld a bung and screw your sensor in there. If you take off the oxygen sensor and call i t a day, your SES light will definitely light up. However, it is of my knowledge that the car is still driveable and not in limp mode so you can drive it somewhere to have that bung hole welded on.

Make sure you weld that bung on the exact location on the new pipe so you dont have to extend any sensor wires.



Rear 02 sensor location is right where the yellow plug is between the body and subframe. You can also see my red Energy suspension motah mount inserts.




Once you have the oxygen sensors figured out, you can start bolting things in. First i bolted the header to the block. Make sure you clean up any melted exhaust gasket material off the block with a razor blade. Start tightening bolts from the inside out.



Spray both sides of your gaskets with copper gasket sealer before you put them in. I couldnt take a picture of the big one because i was real messy sorry.




Next youre gonna bolt the midpipe to the header. Dont bolt it fully as you still have to figure out what the heck youre going to do in the rear lolz....

Now here's the problem QG brothers. There's a gap of around 14" between the midpipe and the rear exhaust pipe. In the picture you can see the pipe is just sawed off and that is because we removed the flange in hopes of using it on another piece of pipe so as to extend what we had.





We couldnt find a piece of pipe long enough but Armin found an old Spec V resonator which happened to have the same exhaust diameter and exhaust flange as the QG, we cut it to the right size and welded it in place.



We ended up not using the flange but if you have more 2" piping then by all means use it.




And so this is where the installation of the header concludes. I present to you: "Frankenpipe" and its creator.



Continued on post #7 of this thread.
 

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knotrly
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if you want a quiet muffler why not keep the stock one? You arent changing the rest of the exhaust anyway, whats the point, so you can have a melon launcher on your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
turco said:
if you want a quiet muffler why not keep the stock one? You arent changing the rest of the exhaust anyway, whats the point, so you can have a melon launcher on your car?
the stock one???
plz



edit: added more installation stuff.

Well drove the car home but i was just not satisfied with the exhaust system. The franken pipe was really loud, plus, having the Twin loop in my trunk i just thought that it was ridiculous that i was driving around with the fart can still on.

So i found Porky's through a local forum. Here's for the locals:
Porky's Discount Mufflers
4641 South State Road 7, Davie, FL 33314

phone: (954) 584-8083


MAP:
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=4641+South+State+Road+7,+Fort+Lauderdale,+FL+33314&btnG=Search&ll=26.073128,-80.209808&spn=0.036621,0.086517


Porky's Discount Mufflers. Voted#1 in South Florida for honesty, quality, & low prices. We can do any car or truck. Specializing in custom work.

Products & Services:
Custom Dual Exhaust, Exhaust Systems, Glass Pack Mufflers, Turbo Mufflers, Diagnostic Services, Estimates, Exhaust Pipe Bending, Financing, Inspections, Military Discounts, Pick-Up & Delivery Services, Repairs, Same Day Service, Senior Discounts, Student Discounts, Towing

Hours of Operation:
Mon-Fri: 08:00am-06:30pm

Payment Options:
Cash Only, MasterCard, VISA, Discover

Areas Served:
Broward County
I had said in my 1st post:

1SentraNotEnuff said:
I will keep my stock exhaust for now except for the whole muffler area and the catalitic and resonator are gonna go probably in substitution for a long straight piece of pipe. if its too obnoxiously loud ill have a resonator welded on but im not gonna keep that wimpy stock one anyways.
basically i wasnt planning on getting any exhaust, i just went to get the muffler welded on, but they quoted me $55 bux for a 2.25" crush bent mild steel midpipe-back exhaust with my muffler welded on at the end. On top of that i bought a 20" resonator from them for $25 and they installed that too. So it came out to $80 (come paying time the guy said $70 so i was like score!)

btw, i didnt have my digi at the muffler place so cam phone had to go in action.

Here's the old resonator hanging there getting ready to die.



The new resonator tacked in place.



Death of the fart can lolololol



Here is the stock exhaust laying on the floor. It's a crush bent 2" pipe so its like 1.75" really. notice the ghetto job at the end from when i had the fart can welded on. Geez what was i thinking (that was pre-b15sentra.net just for the record)




Here's the new exhaust. 1 piece crush bent 2.25" mild steel. I was very impressed at how perfect they bent it those bastages, kids mustave been 18 not any older and they banged it out like nothing.





For those who said it wouldnt fit... well it does. it doesnt hide it completely like in other cars but heck at least it's straight and looks good enough to me.






Continued on post #10
 

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1SentraNotEnuff said:
how come you never spoke up before.........../u suck...
Sorry, but I gotta order some extra gaskets myself cause the shop said they couldn't weld it shut:mad:
 

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turco said:
if you want a quiet muffler why not keep the stock one? You arent changing the rest of the exhaust anyway, whats the point, so you can have a melon launcher on your car?
i dont think he wants it to sound like shyt....bad idea :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Driving Impressions:

I held back on giving my opinions on the header right after the install because the ECU takes a day or two to recognize changes with the motah and i didnt want to give out any wrong information.

As soon as i turned the car on for the first time i felt a difference. When you hit the throttle and rev the car, no longer does it take a second or two for the revs to drop back down to idle. Now it's like, you mash it and revs up and down fast. Armin describes it as 'it revs hard' but to me its more like 'revs freely' or revs fast... idk

Idle: The car idles fine and it is definitely quieter than before. Because of the resonator and because of the muffler no doubt.

Takeoff: When i go take off ive noticed that the car wants to stall so i have to give it a lil bit more gas.

Acceleration: Does it sound like a can of bees? YES it sounds like a can of africanized bees but not all the time. Only when its high revved, i guesstimate its after 4500rpm's when its really really loud, but its also deep at the same time. During normal driving it is a deep throaty tone, but if you take off the line fast 1st and 2nd youll definitely get some can of bees.

I will say this, the Twin loop get two Huge thumbs up from me. Highway travel at 80mph its pretty much almost as quiet as stock. i can hear the hiss that my cheap burnt cd's make whereas before i couldnt hear a Damn.

Top end: Top end has improved better than bottom end in my opinion, i can mash the gas on 5th and the car actually goes somewhere wtf. same thing in 4th, and in 3rd it goes. i likes.

Bottom end: There is definitely a difference but its not as noticeable as the top end. I guess the track/dyno will decide.

Downshifting has changed also. when braking and downshifting at the same time, i find myself using the brakes more than before since there is less backpressure now so the engine doesnt get to work as a brake as much as before.

Overall im really happy with the outcome, i didnt expect to end up with a full exhaust after this but i guess it all just happened, now i can say i have I/H/E finally lolz.

So far no SES light. :confused:






Here's a gratuitous arc picture:




















If any other QG guys want to add any input be my guests, also if anyone has questions or want more pics from a certain angle let me know and ill do my best to comply.

Tony


edit 2-6-6: added these pictures i took tonight.. sweeet




 

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well I never had a problem with the OBX header on my SE. You shoulnt need new gaskets.
 

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Hey amigo, hope it works out for you, let us how what happens when everything is on the car. Cant wait for spring to get my setup installed.
 

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knotrly
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sje0123 said:
That muffler does seem a bit huge. It probably won't fit. Godd luck though.
No to mention i didnt see any hangers.
 

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the twin loop muffler is a mugen copy, and, if its even the tiniest bit similar to the mugen, i'm sure it'll sound killer. if you ahve a good muffler shop, theyll be able to get it installed no problem...

if youre going to have the downpipe/cat cut out, why dont you just have a whole new exhaust fabbed up?
 

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SR20DE
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buy yourself a new NIssan OEM gasket, they work great. I like the header.....
 

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The obx stamp will eventually come off of the header... mine couldn't take the heating/cooling and it popped off. (qr25) outside of that.. I never had a problem with my header, 30k miles strong.
 

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word word. so have you figured out where you're going to put the o2 sensors at? I was thinking maybe one right after the flex so it'll be able to read all 4 cylinders then another right before the cat just like the stock setup..hit me up on aim whenever you get the chance...
-mark
 
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