[farqy]

Hey All:
Picked up a 2002 Spec V about 9 months ago for $3000. After bashing in a few plugs I found the frag from the butterfly valves. Swapped in the crank and cam sensors to deal with the cranking for 15 seconds to start the car. Runs pretty good now, except for without the butterfly valves is idles funny and throws all sorts of error codes.
I have been using this site for a while now to troubleshoot, and finally decided to register... now back to search the forums for more things that need maintenance (unless someone has the answers on their lips)...

Needs:
1. Rear Calipers are very stiff and e-brake tends to sieze in position.
2. Swapped in Double DIN deck and cannot get factory sub to work.
3. Positions 1-3 on fan control do not work.
4. Need to deal with header error of inefficient catalyst and oxygen sensors.

Note: I took the balled up bits of metal and the mangled butterfly valve with intake valve bite marks out of it to the local Nissan folk. They didnt even know what I was talking about. My car didnt even show for that recall!

Jamie

 

[i68k]

0-you will have issues without your butterflies unless you have some type of tuner. you are suffering severely without them if your motor is close to oem, unless of course there was mechanical damage. not to mention all the ses codes will probably richen you out, hope your dont have a precat.

note-this is the precat and butterfly faq, the 02-early03 dont even have the revised screws, or glued, unless someone else did them of course.
http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=135241

1-usually the sliders get stuck, at least for me, very often and need lubing. depending on how bad they are, its a hyraulic system. im not sure whether your saying the rear calipers are locking up, or the ebrake handle itself it sticking, or the cable has too much slack...?

2-how did you wire in the sub? amp is working? or just wired in? etc? the nissan rf sub?

3-assuming your fan still works on 0&4, you need a blower motor resistor, this is kind of at the passenger feet, from the floor looking up. it has a screw or two and electrical connector.

4-before you waste your money, butterfly, headgasket, and precat failure are fairly bad and you might want to think about what youre goals are with the car. this one sounds like your have the stock header and p0420, and butterfly failure, which is sort of worst case scenario for the motor



EDIT: btw, welcome aboard!

 

[farqy]

This car already had an engine changeout at about 60K due to the pre-cat blowout. The new engine got an aftermarket Nismo exhaust, so no precat
The butterfly issue is relatively recent, so I am going to go get a borescope camera to see what the damage is from the metal in the engine. What I am hoping for is that the pitting of the piston is the worst of it, and that the valves are hard enough steel that they are not badly damaged from the metal. I noticed the valves are made of some cheap, soft metal, and the valves were actually taking 'bites' out of the valve that fell into the intake.
You are right about the SES errors though. Especially when I get on the throttle, it throws all sorts of codes. The new valves should be in this week, so I can get it all fixed up.
As for the Sub, I hooked up my aftermarket deck to everything I could, and took apart the stock "little sub", with it's tiny attached amp on it. I had never seen anything like that before! I am assuming I cannot use the 6V preouts that lead to the old amp to bring signal to my new amp. I have a new amp that has high level inputs that handle from 4-10 Volts, but where do the 6V preouts get their signal? The stock deck only had hook ups for 4 speakers!?!?!
Headgasket is not an issue, not losing oil or coolant.
As for the brakes, when I use the e-brake, the calipers are sticking. The cable is free moving, but the calipers have that rotation they use to auto adjust, and it is not slackening off when I release the e-brake. When I got the car, the rear brakes were totally FUBAR, from the seizing and glazed like crazy. I replace the rotors, but then realized the calipers were crap too. I thought they were bad from someone driving with the e-brake on. I have a pair of calipers already, just need to find time to swap them, and another set of hands for bleeding
I like the car, despite its issues, and the fact the back seat does not fit my kids. (My old mazdaspeed had more room)
Thanks for the help eh? I will take some good pictures of my #1 cylinder!

 

[jalvarez502]

hey Jamie welcome to th forum I'm also new here.....

 

[i68k]

the oem sub gets power from both rear deck speakers, thats why theres 2 in/outs on the original harness. you can use either a 2 channel amp, or combine the wires on the sub. you cant bridge the sub, you have to use all the wires, unless of course you figured this out after you took it apart. the premium sound is 4 channels, with 7+2 speakers.

sounds like your caliper/sliders are seizing. hopefully you got a loaded calipers. the sliders on the rear always seem to lockup, so lube them often. and yes you need the disc cube for the rear calipers. also, yes the back seat is rather small, esp when the front seats are all the way back, but trust me, there are worse cars out there for legroom.

 

[farqy]

Cheers I68k, I took a good look at that sub, and was amused by the setup of the tiny amp attached to a tiny speaker I am wondering where the 12 volts comes from (what circuit) and how many amps that circuit is. If I am going to run a small amp, I may just pirate that power supply instead of running a whole new wire from front to back, but I suspect it is on the same as the radio, which would not have enough juice to run even a small amp and the deck... (20 amps, I think) I guess I could put a bigger fuse in, but then the wiring would be suspect...
I was also amused by the piece of corrugated plastic coroplast in the trunk between the trunk and the rear seat foam. I will assure myself it is for saving weight, and not just cheap Clearly if I want to mount anything serious back there, I will have to add some material to screw things down to.
As for the rear seats, my son is just too dang large. It's what I get for having a 6 foot tall wife.

 

[farqy]

hey Jamie welcome to th forum I'm also new here.....

What's up Vancouver: how does your SE-R air care without the second cat converter?

 

[jalvarez502]

the care hasn't gone through air care and I'm guessing it wont cuz I think they are phasing out the air care right?? I don't know if they removed the second cat converter to be honest I haven't checked that .....you should post some pics of your ride and the doubledin project.....

george

 

[i68k]

the premium sound system is rated at 300watt. so if you removed the stock amp, you system is capable of handling a 300watt aftermarket, meaning even if you didnt big3 or cap it, that 300watt or less should be fine.

does your aftermarket headunit have 2 rca out, for 2 amps? you could always use two amps, a small amp for just the sub and a 4channel for the rest of the speakers. the 4 channel is easy setup, just runs the power, rcas, and amp turn-on to the trunk, on opposite sides of course, then from your new amp just splice into the thicker speaker wiring. there are wiring diagrams and color codes in the fsm.

you could also rewire your speakers to the headunit, and use one amp for the sub, either way you will be able to control the sound better. dont forget to use solder when wiring