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What are you talking about when you said you connected the b52-c(+) to the middle of the RCA and the other one to the side of the RCA? Did you splice the RCA up or something?

When the installer install your deck, did you see them go into your trunk to do any wiring or did they do everything from the deck itself?
If they didn't go work in the trunk where the stock amp is located at, it means that they did not bypass the stock amp and you are double amping your system. What that means is since your kenwood deck has an amp built into it, it will send the signal out to the speakers, but before it reach the speaker it passes through the stock amp(the one in the back) and that stock amp amps the signal again.

If you read post #7, near the bottom, you have 3 different ways to do the wiring, which one did you do? I would recommond you do #3. That allows you to run all your speakers with the power from the deck and use the stock amp to just power your stock sub.

Is your stock sub working right now? If it is working, than their really isn't much that you can do to it. You are expecting too much from that little crappy sub. Now that you have an aftermarket deck, your speakers can play louder while your sub still suck. So really your sub is still the same, but your speakers just got louder.

Just screw to stock system and go with an aftermarket sub and an aftermarket amp to power it. It will sound a lot better. You have a nice powerful deck now, don't limit yourself with stock speakers/sub/amp.
 

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SuperAkuma said:
What are you talking about when you said you connected the b52-c(+) to the middle of the RCA and the other one to the side of the RCA? Did you splice the RCA up or something?
sorry my reference of b52-c(+) was vague. I was referring to the AF1.jpg diagram connection 22, 15, 21 and 20 on the AUDIO AMPLIFIER (B52) schematic. So I cut those wires coming from the harness (at the amp) and connected to RCA cables (like the photo). So I would solder connector 22 the wire leading to side of the RCA head, and connector 15 would be soldered to the wire leading to the centre of the RCA head; same for connector 20 and 21.

SuperAkuma said:
When the installer install your deck, did you see them go into your trunk to do any wiring or did they do everything from the deck itself?
If they didn't go work in the trunk where the stock amp is located at, it means that they did not bypass the stock amp and you are double amping your system. What that means is since your kenwood deck has an amp built into it, it will send the signal out to the speakers, but before it reach the speaker it passes through the stock amp(the one in the back) and that stock amp amps the signal again.
The installer didn't do anything in the trunk at all. I had to purchase a wire harness so that I could have the new Kenwood deck installed. All he did was match up the colours from the deck to the appropriate colors on the wire harness.

SuperAkuma said:
If you read post #7, near the bottom, you have 3 different ways to do the wiring, which one did you do? I would recommond you do #3. That allows you to run all your speakers with the power from the deck and use the stock amp to just power your stock sub.
yea, I read post #7, and that's what I wanted to do. I wanted my stock amp to power my sub. Because I have an option to turn on/off the sub from the deck, I'd figure this setup will allow me get better base from the stock sub. When I had the stock RF deck, the base coming from the sub was way better than what it is now...so I just want to get that back..hense all this trouble.

SuperAkuma said:
Is your stock sub working right now? If it is working, than their really isn't much that you can do to it. You are expecting too much from that little crappy sub. Now that you have an aftermarket deck, your speakers can play louder while your sub still suck. So really your sub is still the same, but your speakers just got louder.
Yea, yea..:) my speakers did get louder, but my sub suck! :mad: But i have to jack up the base settings to get a little thumping from the sub. That's what I thought the re-wiring would do to allow me to get better thump from the stock sub.

SuperAkuma said:
Just screw to stock system and go with an aftermarket sub and an aftermarket amp to power it. It will sound a lot better. You have a nice powerful deck now, don't limit yourself with stock speakers/sub/amp.
So are you saying that I can't get much more base out of the stock sub?

If i choose to install an aftermarket amp & sub down the road (need to save up $$$ first) what would you suggest?

Thanks for reading & reply to my post.
 

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I understand the B52...wiring setup, I just don't understand the RCA part where you said the middle and the side.

RCA wires have special shielding to protect from noise and static and stuff like that. When you cut the RCA wire, you expose all those noise and stuff into your system. I guess that is where the pop is coming from. Or you have a bad ground wire somewhere.

As I said, you can't expect much from the stock sub. I would build the system from the ground up. If you need us to help you build a new system front the ground up, start a new thread and we will help you out. I will leave this thread for any other question on re-wiring the stock system.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
If you done the proper wiring with setup #3, I think I know why the sub play not so loud... your deck.

According to Kenwood website, the KDC-X491 have 4V preout:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/ListProduct.aspx?k1=2&k2=46&k3=172&pr=2743

If you read my thread completly, you'll noticed the stock AMP need something around 6V pre-amp signal to play good, at least it received a 6V signal from the OEM headunit.

Now, you feed the 4 OEM speakers (3 Ohms BTW) with the deck and the sub with the SUB pre-out of the Kenwood HU back to the OEM amp right?

If that's so, try to pump up the SUB channel to the max on your headunit...

I remember my old Kenwood (the deck in the pictures) did have +5V pre-out and to have a sub I could ear well, I did have to put the SUB channel from 0 to +11 (at least on a scale from -15 to +15 with 2 increment) and also crank the bass tone a little too. At +11 it was audible, at +13 it was working good and at +15 it was rockin! The default level 0 did probably send a strait 5V signal, while going up near +13 was a 6V pre-out kind like.

So my guess is your HU don't send a strong enough signal to the AMP that will balance the volume with the rest of the speakers. Try to see if you can adjust the sub level to the MAX and see if it's better.

If not, maybe than the best way would be to do another setup.

For your 4V pre-out well it might be ok just to weld 4 RCA onto a universal Nissan HU wiring harness and put your pre-out signal instead of the speaker signal (50W) going into the amp, all this done behind the HU and by leaving the trunk amp harness to factory wiring.

Your HU will act as a pre-amp only (just like the OEM radio) and will send a uniform +4V pre-out signal to the AMP in the trunk, that will drive all the speakers including the sub. That way you can also disable the built-in amp of the HU and this will make it less heat and play better :)


As for the poping everything time, this is related to the REMOTE signal (pink wire)... you did probably hook up the wrong wire from the deck, like the motorized antenna (maybe).
 

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other colors of input wires and no output for rear speakers

hi guys at start my english is bad i know sry for that im from Poland im driving Sentra b15 2006 1.8s poorest version

ive had purchase from junk yard rockford fosgate amp and 9 speakers but without HU and CD changer ( im not sure that CD changer was included in this config)


but theres a other colours of imput signals and theres no wires (or connection) to rear speakers

PLS help me answer this before im going to cut this connected imputs and split SUB wires to SUB and REAR speakers :)))

ok now pics !!

on this pic you have imput connetor B52 harness
http://fotowrzut.pl/6OOXGZIQIY

there shoudl be
(-) Pin 23, Color R/L (Red/Lime)
(+) Pin 16, Color G (Green)
(-) Pin 21, Color L (Lime)
(+) Pin 20, Color OR/R (Orange/Red)

but heres a

(-) Pin 23, Color R/L (Red/Lime)
(+) Pin 16, Color G (Green)
(-) Pin 21, Color R/L (Red/Lime)
(+) Pin 20, Color G (Green)

and they are connected (2 channels are connected to 1 WHY ?!?!)

here we have this


http://fotowrzut.pl/A2CQ9FS3JJ

there shoudl be
(-) Pin 24, Color PU/R (Purple/Red)
(+) Pin 17, Color R (Red)
(-) Pin 22, Color OR/L (Orange/Lime)
(+) Pin 15, Color OR (Orange)

but heres a

(-) Pin 24, Color PU/R (Purple/Red)
(+) Pin 17, Color R (Red)
(-) Pin 22, Color PU/R (Purple/Red)
(+) Pin 15, Color R (Red)

and excacly same thing as upeer

next we have SUB connector from harness B51

but wheres the rear speakers output ?!?!

http://fotowrzut.pl/WAV3JYVO57


help pls !
 

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