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Theory freak learning...
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Discussion Starter #41
MrInferno: Hum... That suck :( I was expecting this with my Kenwood HU before the install too but hopefully, even with 5V pre-out, the -15 to +15 offset sub adjustement set in between 11-15 save my day and would let hear the sub fine at thoses level.

Maybe that amplier signal booster might work but being there, I would simply get a new amp. Get the cheapest and weakest stereo amp you can get (like a 200w x 2) and hook it up to the OEM sub. Use the OEM 12V and GND wires too, they will hold a small amp. And you have the REMOTE wire also there so you can have your amp turn on/off signal too.

That would be a better option IMO ;)


slowj: No problem, glad it work fine now ;)
 

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finished wireup with sub

i have a 4 volt preout. when i turn on the head unit, it says "failure" and every time i change tracks, there is a pop. i can actually see the sub "sucking" in. is this because im not using a higher voltage preout ?
 

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thanks for the advice...i thought of doing that, but for now the booster was only $28 and a lot less work (it should be arriving today via UPS). if it works, i'll post my results. my car is for sale right now - so i wanted to just get the sub working better. if it doesn't sell and i end up keeping it then i'll probably do a small, cheap amp. i just don't have the time for the extra work right now :cool:

angel2167882 said:
MrInferno: Hum... That suck :( I was expecting this with my Kenwood HU before the install too but hopefully, even with 5V pre-out, the -15 to +15 offset sub adjustement set in between 11-15 save my day and would let hear the sub fine at thoses level.

Maybe that amplier signal booster might work but being there, I would simply get a new amp. Get the cheapest and weakest stereo amp you can get (like a 200w x 2) and hook it up to the OEM sub. Use the OEM 12V and GND wires too, they will hold a small amp. And you have the REMOTE wire also there so you can have your amp turn on/off signal too.

That would be a better option IMO ;)


slowj: No problem, glad it work fine now ;)
 

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i had the same problem when i first hooked my new HU up. initially (before i rewired the new HU to power the front & rears) i was using the 2 sets of RCA's (Front & Rear) to send preamp level signals to the stock amp where it powered the all speakers & the sub.
i had to get a Ground Loop Isolator (picked up at Walmart) for each set of RCA outputs i was using. that fixed the problem right away for me.

slowj said:
i have a 4 volt preout. when i turn on the head unit, it says "failure" and every time i change tracks, there is a pop. i can actually see the sub "sucking" in. is this because im not using a higher voltage preout ?
 

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Can somebody give me some clear instuctions on how to get the sub working more or even my speakers(bass). I just got a alpine cda-9833 and did this bypass and i'm not getting that much bass anywhere. I know you have to put some female rca jacks somewhere but can't find clear instructions on it.

It says "wire to wire". I did all that. Then it says L-RCA -> B52-C into the harness. I'm kinda slow. I just need to know where to put the female rca jacks. I have two of them and have the sub preout already going to the trunk from the headunit.

So where and how would I connect the rca jacks.

EDIT- Ok, I understand how to do it into the harness now. But still kinda confused on how to combine two wire into one rca wire. Does one wire go in the middle of the wire and the other on the outside?

Also, cut and extend spare wires from sub enclosure? Where exactly are these wire and what colors?

I did read the whole thread, and a ton of other. Just a little new to this.


Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Onto an RCA jack, the + is always the MIDDLE and the - is the outside. And RED for right and BLACK or WHITE for LEFT

For the sub wires, pull the hidden cable under the passenger side carpet wall... that will unlock the seat to be foldable and see the wires going into the sub :)
 

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Great thread, but it took me forever to find it. Someone should make it a sticky.
Anyhoot, anyone ever wonder why there is two positive and two negative wires for the amp? I wanna be lazy and tap one of the wires to power a Punch 55.2 amp that I am going to use to power a 10 inch Alpine Type S sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
SumAznguy said:
Great thread, but it took me forever to find it. Someone should make it a sticky.
Anyhoot, anyone ever wonder why there is two positive and two negative wires for the amp? I wanna be lazy and tap one of the wires to power a Punch 55.2 amp that I am going to use to power a 10 inch Alpine Type S sub.
I don't know why there is 2 wires for 12V and GND but if you gonna tap an amp there, I would definitly take both wires :)
 

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pink wire

some1 was telling me all i would have to do is cut a pink wire and locate that to the new amp/ or maybe splice into it would that make it so that the old amp still works and the new one would too
 

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angel2167882 said:
Man thrust me on this, even with the max gain on the HU for the sub output, YOU WILL NOT HEAR IT... 2V is really not enough to feed the amp while driving the speakers off the HU directly.

On my Kenwood deck with 5V pre-out, if I leave the sub output to 0 (scale from -15 to +15), I CAN'T hear it at all... it start to play loud at +11, +13 is just fine and +15 something too much for the rest. So I guess my deck is slightly increasing the voltage to reach something near 6V so I can hear it. But no way your JVC will push the 2V up to 6V... maybe with the 4V pre-out, maybe.

I've send you a PM also ;)
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but angel2167882's instructions helped me out a lot so i want to give back to the community. I did everything as per angel2167882's write up.

First of all my pioneer HU only outputs 2.2V at the sub-low-level-out, and the stock amp likes it at about 6V. Well I tried it anyway and the result was, (despite angel2167882's quote above) YES it will work with some level adjustments on the HU! You CAN compensate for the low voltage by setting sub gains/EQ/Loudness, etc on the HU. I did NOT use any signal boosters. I sent the 2.2V sub-low-level-out from the HU straight to the amp using RCAs. The sound is excellent IMHO, although I am not the biggest car audiophile.

Please note though, if you have a low-end HU and it doesn’t have all these adjustments, you will NOT be able to hear the sub. It WILL be under powered.

I should also mention the discrepencies: Mine is a 2004 SpecV RF Package. So I have a "2004" amp. And I guess every HU is different. My 2.2V line out was sufficient...others may not be. I guess I was lucky. :rolleyes:
 

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Hey i have a spec v with the AF package. I want to install a new HU and connect it to the speakers and have the OEM amp power the OEM sub (the 2nd option as per angels instructions). This is my first time doing any kind of audio work on a car but, I have always wanted to install my own HU so i decided to do it.
Anyway I'm confused about the first 4 steps when you say "cut and rewire directly: B52-A <-> B51-A(wires to wires)"
I think this means cut B52-A(positive) and cut B51-A(positive) and switch and reconnect them, than do same with negatives. Then same for B,C,D.Am I understanding this right??

Then it says "L-RCA -> B52-C into the harness". Does this mean I will have to cut the B52-C wires again to connect the RCA from it??
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Driving the 4 OEM speakers from the HU and the sub from the amp. You would have an RCA from the HU for the sub, cut and re-wire directly:
- B52-A <-> B51-A (wires to wires)
- B52-B <-> B51-B (wires to wires)
- B52-C <-> B51-C (wires to wires)
- B52-D <-> B51-D (wires to wires)
- L-RCA -> B52-C into the harness (feeding the R-L amp channel with the RCA LEFT pre-out of the HU)
- R-RCA -> B52-D into the harness (feeding the R-R amp channel with the RCA RIGHT pre-out of the HU)
- B51-C <- Cut and extend spare wires from the SUB enclosure into the harness
- B51-D <- Cut and extend spare wires from the SUB enclosure into the harness
- Leave B52-E (remote), B51-E (+12V) and B51-F (ground) in place (don't cut them!)


The 4 first steps are to bypass the amp and send an amplifed signal from the HU directly to the speakers.

Then, you need to have an RCA cable from the HU pre-out signal that will goes into the amp rear channels input. You can cut your RCA and take the middle wire for + and outside wire for the -, for both channels. Or get RCA weldable plugs at an electronic store.

And finally, take rear channels output from the amp, and extend wires up to the sub enclosure (fold out the 40% seat you will see the amp enclosure harness... cut thoses 4 wires and attach the extended ones from the amp).

Let me know if you understand better!
 

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Attaching the amp to RCA

I'm still not understanding which wires i need to cut to attach to RCA cables on the amp unit. Can someone help me and be more explicit.

TIA.
 

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Azndoodle said:
I'm still not understanding which wires i need to cut to attach to RCA cables on the amp unit. Can someone help me and be more explicit.

TIA.

Post #7 has everyting that you are looking for.
 

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This is what happened..I had bought a Kenwood KDC-X491 deck and was installed by the store where I bought it. I watched the guy install it by attaching a set of wire harness. When I got home, everything's working but I wasn't getting the much out of my RF sub. So reading this thread I realized that I had to run RCA cables attaching from the deck to the back (amp). I wanted the amp to power the sub so i figured all I needed to do was run RCA cables to the back into the amp:

for L-RCA:
from the harness of the amp I took B52-C LH(+) (orange) connect to middle of RCA & B52-C LH(-) (orange/blue) to side of RCA

for R-RCA:
from the harness of the amp I took B52-D RH(+) (orange/red) connect to middle RCA & B52-D RH(-) (green) to side of RCA

Now that I did it, everytime i turn on the car deck or switch to a difference source the sub would pop..and no base would come from it.

Can anyone help me?
 
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