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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all!

In that long Canada day week-end, I took 4 days off and I buy my new headunit.

It's the Kenwood KDC-MP922 and it's an amazing HU. I bought it at Future Shop for the super special price of 529$ CND (instead of regular 649$). I mainly bought this one for the amazing price but also for MP3 playback and for the non-fading and separate volume controled 5V pre-out.

Ok, I got the Spec-V with the Sport Package (in Canada) which got the fake "Rockford Fosgate" - Clarion everything. At first, I did'nt know that setup was so complicated but I've made my homework couples of time ago for preparing the setup. I get also the 2 wiring schematics for the PREMIUM package. There it is for ya...

Headunit output and amp input wiring page:
http://pages.infinit.net/angel666/Sentra/misc/AF1.jpg

Amp output and speakers wiring page:
http://pages.infinit.net/angel666/Sentra/misc/AF2.jpg

You can also check the full 2002 audio PDF document here:
http://www.southern-shift.com/sentra/av.pdf

My Alpine Type R 6½ (from my GXE) was already installed and wiring the the OEM HU and amp. Let me tell you it was sound like crap. The amp would distors a lot at high volume and the OEM speakers did make more bass. Maybe the OEM amp/speakers was designed to work together and my Alpine were too strong for the amp.

So I follow the suggestion of using the Kenwood HU for driving the 4 all channels and the amp for the OEM sub alone. I did know also that the amp would take something like ~6V pre-out signal but I guess my 5V Kenwood pre-out will be enough.


INSTALLATION:


Before going outside, I did make the HU wiring harness adaptor with all the corresponding wires together.

First, I disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. I unmount the OEM headunit and leave the hole open. I run a 12"-shielded double line RCA cable from the HU location thru the trunk passing of the passenger side. It was really easy to do.

After come the touchy part; rewiring the 2 harness of the amp. It took me like 1 hour lay down in the trunk but with carefully checking the wiring schematics, I've cut and rewire everything correctly (All the 4 speakers channel). I also add 2 RCA female plug on the REAR input channels of the amp harness to let my 5V pre-out go there and feed the sub. After everything tie wrap and tape well, it look like this:

Amp harness re-wiring and RCA plug soldered


My Alpine speakers was already in place since couples of weeks now


Whole trunk setup



Than, installing the HU was a cake. I've plug my harness adaptor, the antenna, the non-fading sub pre-out and the AUX input wire in the glove box (for future use maybe!)


I've also done BTW the A/C on defrost microswitch disable that was haunting me since I did own my old GXE! Just cut both wires from the switch and tie them together. Your A/C will NEVER kick in again automaticly. Refer to here for more infos.



Finally, I've put everthing in place and plug back the battery. NO FUSE BLOW!!! Everything was working good! I get used to the HU function and I love it!.

Because of the 5V pre-out (instead of 6V), the sub was'nt play too loud at first BUT the Kenwood did have a volume control for the NON-FADING pre-out. So I've pump it up to the max (+15) and now the sub is damn loud! Well, just all right with the rest of the setup.

Some images once done!





So, I must go sleep but if anyone have comments or questions, just ask! Don't forget also to see my photo page will more and high-res pictures.

Cya
 

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Theory freak learning...
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3,920 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
More pics!
Screen at 45 and keyboard at 45


See the red LED blinking in the lower right corner when the faceplate is removed...


Close without the tiny faceplace!


Close with the faceplace

When the HU turn on, it will advance toward to you like 1cm BEFORE unfolding the screen and the keyboard. So you don't have to worry for the mechanism rubbing somewhere on the plastic frame.


I have also added the original audio PDF file from the 2002 FSM for the one who need it. Check the link in the original post.

Oh and I forgot also to mention that when I dismount the HU dash, guess what I found in the vent? Yes, a long 4 feet gray foam liner I pull out :D I know it is a "common" problem of the B15 but my 2002 GXE never done that. I hope it won't harm somethings or make a broke a seal somewhere...
 

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Very nice write up, man. I think I'm gonna have to try that AC/defrost thing one of these days.

BTW.. Sweet HU.. &I love that song desenchantee.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've add some pictures (to the 2nd post in the thread) because peoples would ask if the HU will rub on the plastic frame. On my case (and it should be for everyone with this HU), NO nothing rub!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Wiring detailed!!!

Sorry to dig old thread but due to the increasing demand of upgrading the "AUDIO FANATIC" package in a certain way, I often redirect people to that page because it include lots of infos and the schematics of the AF package.

But some are still too n00b to figure out things (no offense to anyone :p), so I did little extra information about the OEM amp/speakers re-wiring that gonna make things clear enough, unless you are color blind or illiterate ;)

On the OEM AMP, there is 2 harness and I will describe them.

The smallest harness is the one coming from the HU and that feed the amp. Identified as B52 on schematic #1.
http://pages.infinit.net/angel666/Sentra/misc/AF1.jpg

B52 in details:
  • Front-Left (FR-SP LH):
    (-) Pin 24, Color PU/R (Purple/Red)
    (+) Pin 17, Color R (Red)
  • Front-Right (FR-SP RH):
    (-) Pin 23, Color R/L (Red/Lime)
    (+) Pin 16, Color G (Green)
  • Rear-Left (RR-SP LH)
    (-) Pin 22, Color OR/L (Orange/Lime)
    (+) Pin 15, Color OR (Orange)
  • Rear-Right (RR-SP RH)
    (-) Pin 21, Color L (Lime)
    (+) Pin 20, Color OR/R (Orange/Red)
  • Remote: Pin 13, Color P (Pink); 12V Remote signal to turn on the amp. Usually blue on aftermarket HU.
Then, there is the largest harness that is used to drive all the speakers in the car and supply current to the amp. Identified as B51 on schematic #2.
http://pages.infinit.net/angel666/Sentra/misc/AF2.jpg

B51 in details:
  • Front-Left (FR-SP LH):
    (-) Pin 10, Color G/Y (Green/Yellow)
    (+) Pin 9, Color PU (Purple)
  • Front-Right (FR-SP RH):
    (-) Pin 8, Color BR/W (Brown/White)
    (+) Pin 3, Color BR (Brown)
  • Rear-Left (RR-SP LH):
    (-) Pin 7, Color W/OR (White/Orange)
    (+) Pin 2, Color Y/G (Yellow/Green)
  • Rear-Right (RR-SP RH):
    (-) Pin 6, Color GY/L (Gray/Lime)
    (+) Pin 1, Color R/B (Red/Black)
  • +12V Amp current: Pin 12 & Pin 5, Color W/R (White/Red)
  • Ground: Pin 11 & Pin 4, Color B (Black)
What is possible are depending of the choosen configuration. If you want:
  1. Driving all the speakers INCLUDING the SUB off the HU directly (mean amp disabled), you would cut and re-wire directly:
    - B52-A <-> B51-A (wires to wires)
    - B52-B <-> B51-B (wires to wires)
    - B52-C <-> B51-C (wires to wires)
    - B52-D <-> B51-D (wires to wires)
    - Cut and remove B52-E (remote), B51-E (+12V) and B51-F (ground).
    You may use them to drive your own amp/sub setup but I won't don't go over 500W MAX.
  2. Driving the 4 OEM speakers from the HU and the sub from the amp. You would have an RCA from the HU for the sub, cut and re-wire directly:
    - B52-A <-> B51-A (wires to wires)
    - B52-B <-> B51-B (wires to wires)
    - B52-C <-> B51-C (wires to wires)
    - B52-D <-> B51-D (wires to wires)
    - L-RCA -> B52-C into the harness (feeding the R-L amp channel with the RCA LEFT pre-out of the HU)
    - R-RCA -> B52-D into the harness (feeding the R-R amp channel with the RCA RIGHT pre-out of the HU)
    - B51-C <- Cut and extend spare wires from the SUB enclosure into the harness
    - B51-D <- Cut and extend spare wires from the SUB enclosure into the harness
    - Leave B52-E (remote), B51-E (+12V) and B51-F (ground) in place (don't cut them!)
  3. Driving the 2 front OEM speakers and 2 rear A-M speakers from the HU and the sub from the amp (like my setup). You would have an RCA from the HU for the sub, cut and re-wire directly:
    - B52-A <-> B51-A (wires to wires)
    - B52-B <-> B51-B (wires to wires)
    - B52-C <-> Extend wires to your A-M speakers poles; leave OEM speaker wires there unpluged
    - B52-D <-> Extend wires to your A-M speakers poles; leave OEM speaker wires there unpluged
    - L-RCA -> B52-C into the harness (feeding the R-L amp channel with the RCA LEFT pre-out of the HU)
    - R-RCA -> B52-D into the harness (feeding the R-R amp channel with the RCA RIGHT pre-out of the HU)
    - Leave B51-C in place so it will only feed the sub (don't cut them!)
    - Leave B51-D in place so it will only feed the sub (don't cut them!)
    - Leave B52-E (remote), B51-E (+12V) and B51-F (ground) in place (don't cut them!)
Hope this will help you guys ;)


P.S. If I made a typo or an error, just tell me but I'm pretty sure everything is 100% correct.
 

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ya i have a kenwood deck to
kdc-mpv622
it does the job
i got a decent deal on it
280 at visions instead of 400 it was at the time
 

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Discussion Starter #10
seven6ty said:
No Eclipse?
What??? It's a Nissan Sentra forum, not a DSM Eclipse forum. Are you hi-jacking my thread guys?!? :p
 

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Ey???

Urm, I wasn't talking about Mitsubishi, if that's what you're referring to.

I was just wondering why you didn't go with an Eclipse head unit instead of that Kenwood sh**, as I don't think it could match the level of sound quality, nor audio control.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't know that brand... sorry! Maybe they don't sell it here in Canada. But IMO, Kenwood is kick-as$, specially regarding MP3 playback who was my priority #1.
 

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Oh, Eclipses can be hard to find, they don't sell them at all audio retail places. I'm not really sure why, but I don't think they license as many sellers. It's really high quality ****, up on par with Alpine (although the dealer I bought from-an authorized Alpine dealer-even recommended it above Alpine), and from what I've seen, they're not quite as expensive. I pait about 460 for a top of the line unit and I love it like no other.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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from what i've gathered, you can't just buy a harness for the HU and plug it into the stock HU harnesses... what if you just want a new head unit. and have the preout goto the sub, and the stock amp power all 4 speakers.

a little off topic and probably could be found out doing a search... but i'm already typin this one. what are the specs of the stock amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
derf said:
from what i've gathered, you can't just buy a harness for the HU and plug it into the stock HU harnesses... what if you just want a new head unit. and have the preout goto the sub, and the stock amp power all 4 speakers.

a little off topic and probably could be found out doing a search... but i'm already typin this one. what are the specs of the stock amp?
Read the hole thread man. Every answers are there... just take time to read it and if there is anything else, PM me ;)
 

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nice writeup !

what exactly is a non-fading preout ?

also, i have the Sony CDX-M8805X...does anyone own this stereo or know what its preout voltages are ?
 

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so angel2167882, with a 4 volt preout...do you recommend a different configuration than yours or am i f'd in the a ?
 
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