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Immature Tough Guy
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The following writeup shows how to modify your stock FRONT struts for Koni "Yellow" Sport Inserts. The rears are direct replacement and no modification is necessary, but you have to reuse the stock strut housing for the fronts.

For instructions on how to actually install these with springs on your car, check the how-to section of this site.

Main tools/equipment you will need:

1. Hacksaw
2. Drill with 3mm and 14mm bit
3. 10mm or Torx-55 male socket
4. Bench Vise (makes it a lot easier)

You can do this in 2-3 hours, I took a little longer since I'm not in a rush and wanted to be careful.



Secure the strut with a vise and with a ruler and use duct tape to mark the cut line. Don't cut off too much or the housing will be useless!. You need to measure to take off just enough so that the nubs on the inserts go into the housing.

It helps to have plastic vise pads so you don't scratch up the housings, they are yellow in the pic. Make sure you put a bucket or something to catch the oil.



Cut with a hacksaw. Takes about 10-20 minutes.



Strut with the "guts" revealed.



On the left is what happens if you cut too much off, the nubs on the insert are useless. The right strut housing is correct since it has to be just long enough to accept the nubs on the side of the insert. Go conservative and measure the necessary strut housing length yourself.



Now drill a 3mm pilot hole into the bottom of the strut, then use a 14mm bit to drill a hole big enough for bolt to hold the insert.



Here are the pieces to secure the insert. What you can then do is to use the bottom screw (after you drill the 14mm hole) to "pull" the insert in, forcing the nubs into the housing. That ensures that the insert is completely snug, if the insert is loose in anyway you can crack the housing.



Bolt and washers installed, note you need a 10mm or TORX-55 male socket to tighten the bolt to specs.



Comparison to stock strut. They are identical in overall length, but the difference in internal valving is quite noticable, the konis are much stronger. On identical stock spec springs you can easily tell the difference.



Complete set of front struts (right) and rear shocks (drop in replacement from koni).
 

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Thanks for the write up. I was planning on doing the same thing, but mine aren't here yet.

How much did you end up cutting off, about 50mm? Also is it hard to find the center of the strut for the hole you have to drill?


Let us know what you think after you get them installed on the car.
 

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I think I'm going this route, I'll know after testing amy's teins this weekend.
 

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b_tapper said:
I think I'm going this route, I'll know after testing amy's teins this weekend.
r u talking about nismo girl. if so r u going to be at autox. kinda curious.
 

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Immature Tough Guy
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
SentraKy said:
How much did you end up cutting off, about 50mm? Also is it hard to find the center of the strut for the hole you have to drill?
Actually more like 55mm. I just don't see how the insert can slide all the way down with only 38mm cut off. Also, it's not hard to find the center since the bottom of the strut is curved and you can easily eyeball the center. Making a 3mm pilot hole really helps.

They're going on the car next weekend since I have a big autox event this weekend and don't want to mess with the current alignment settings.
 

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Since you are discarding the guts of the old strut anyway, could you save effort by cutting straight through the whole strut instead of just around the outer shell?

I ask because we have a nice bandsaw we use at work that could probably go through the whole thing very quickly and easily.
 

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Helped me make up my mind. These are going on my car next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah a bandsaw would work nice and quick, the guts get tossed anyway so go nuts. T Dot had his done with an exhaust cutter if I remember correctly.

The fronts are adjusted through the hole at the top of strut tower, similar to Tein SS except you use an included plastic knob.

 

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Very nice. looks good.

The JIC's are a PITA to adjust... fortunately I haven't had too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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quick question

with all this cutting of the strut, does this shorten the strut for better travel, or is there more complicated in that... im sure its been discussed before but since you just did the install and know a bit about it, i figured id ask... thanks
 

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What I am going to try to do is this: Get a set of used stock struts, so that I can put together the fronts without any real downtime on the car. One of my friend's parents owns a junkyard and can do a nationwide search for them.
 

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If you want to shorten the strut more, you could cut out the bottom of the strut housing as well and then weld the insert in place. Obviously, this is ALOT more work, but not impossible.

Nice write up. Good info. for those people trying to decide on which way to go. using the exhaust pipe cutter is probably one of the smartest ways to go because it'll ensure an even cut across the strut. If you try to go through the whole thing, you may end up with a slanted cut.
 

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What are the Part number's?Part Numbers? Part Numbers?Need Part Number?!! Precious Part Numbers!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would seriously watch the caffeine intake there buddy ;)

Front: 8610-1409 Sport
Rear: 80-2838 Sport


The overall length with the koni insert is pretty much identical to stock. But unlike oem stock struts:

KONIs are desigend to fit standard height cars and can work with lowered cars as long as they don't bottom out internally and become damaged. Unlike some shocks, KONIs ARE NOT POSITION SENSITIVE SO THEY WILL WORK PROPERLY ANYWHERE IN THEIR STROKE RANGE PROVIDING THEY ARE NOT BOTTOMING OR TOPPING OUT. Different vehicle suspension designs have different stroke travels but a good rule of thumb is that most vehicles can be lowered acceptably about 1.5 inches, beyond that the possibility of bottoming increases rapidly.
 
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