[johnbkremer]

After visiting for more than a year, I finally joined. Whaddya know, my '00 1.8 keeps stalling, too. Specifically when in reverse or drive and the gas is pressed. She won't climb above 900 revs before giving out. When in neutral, I can rev the engine all day with no problem. Lemme back up...

A couple months ago, she developed a rough idle and would drop to 400 or so revs when stopped, especially after long drives on the freeway. A few weeks ago, it got bad and so on a hunch I bought some CRC MAF cleaner because it sounded like the symptoms. After cleaning it drove like a champ for about 24 hours and then after a trip to the gas station, she went into limp home mode. I figured it was the MAF so I went ahead and ordered one online, and after replacing it I am now experiencing the problems listed above.

The SES has been on since I owned the car, but I have a feeling I recently got some new trouble codes. I have a OBD scanner coming in the mail tomorrow, but was wondering if anyone had any ideas?

I'm going to see what putting the old one on does, but from other people I've heard that causes could be the alternator, TPS, IAC, sticky throttle body, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, among others.

 

[johnbkremer]

UPDATE:

I replaced the new MAF with the old. The car will drive but is having trouble shifting, some idles will be normal, others it is struggling to maintain 300 revs. Giving gentle gas, it'll speed up rather sluggishly and it goes all the way up to 4.5k revs before switching gears. If I mash the gas, it'll climb up to 6k revs and then come back down and start to lose power.

Comparing the components, it seems the old MAF is damaged (there is clearly a wire missing), but functional while the new just doesn't work. Am I in need of an ECU reprogram with the new? The car seems to be more used to the old.

 

[i68k]

never use a maf thats is not nissan brand, or you will have countless other problems. most of your problems sound like it from a cheapo maf. however, you should be pulling your codes, your ecu will at least point you to what is wrong. for all we know, all you need is a cam sensor, or o2 sensor,...or all of those other parts you listed. the car needs to have a full diagnosis if theres no ses codes, as i believe your not drive-by-wire, and is cable driven. make sure your battery terminals are super tight, and has good ground contact on the fenderwall, then check your voltage motor on&off.