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Designated Drinker
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2,416 Posts
soupbone said:
pushing in the rear piston.......how is this done? (cant use a c-clamp like on the front.....really?)
just use a pair of pliars and rotate the piston clockwise carefully. do NOT pinch or puncture the rubber seal or you will have to rebuild the caliper.
 

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200,000?
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Slappy McGear Slapper
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913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Man, are you guys sure these things are supposed to come off???:) I just beat the crap outta my rotors and they didnt even come close to budging, letting more PB soa into them right now. But DAMN I only have 18K miles on nthem and in NC they havent seen ay real snow/ice. I cat believe they are so siezed on, crazy.
 

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Slappy McGear Slapper
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913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Haha, well finally got them off, glad I did too cause I totaly destroyed the stock rotors. I beat the crap outta them and they didnt budge. SO I started with a can of PB in one hand and the hammer in the other...WHACK WHACK WHAKC SPRAY WHACK WHACK WHACK SPRAY. Still tok me like 20 minutes to get them off. Anyway got the front brakesdone, gonna d the back ones tomorrow. Hopefully my brake bias wont be too extreme. The first SS line I did made a complete mess too, but after that one I got the hang of it and barely lost any fluid doin the other side.
 

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Hakuna Matata, bishes!
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2,354 Posts
Gandalf said:
Haha, well finally got them off, glad I did too cause I totaly destroyed the stock rotors. I beat the crap outta them and they didnt budge. SO I started with a can of PB in one hand and the hammer in the other...WHACK WHACK WHAKC SPRAY WHACK WHACK WHACK SPRAY. Still tok me like 20 minutes to get them off. Anyway got the front brakesdone, gonna d the back ones tomorrow. Hopefully my brake bias wont be too extreme. The first SS line I did made a complete mess too, but after that one I got the hang of it and barely lost any fluid doin the other side.
BE SURE TO REFER TO THE FSM ON HOW TO BLEED THE BRAKES PROPERLY!!! If you don't bleed them (properly), you're a liability to yourself and everyone around you! As far as the rear piston, you can use a pair of pliars as someone else mentioned, and as they also mentioned: don't puncture the rubber seal!
 

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Slappy McGear Slapper
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913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well I def. didnt plan on ouncturing any rubber seals, so how does one go about NOT puncturing it??? I went to autozoen and bought this $9 square block thing that will turn the caliper, so I dont have to try the pliers method. I'm so glad I got the zinc coated rotors, since the coating lasted about 20 seconds, once I used the brakes it took the coating right off.
 

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Banned
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343 Posts
you can rent a tool at autozone for recompressing the caliper piston, i bought mine from them, cause i 5 cars i have to worry about...5 as in my parents and siblings cars also. it is a good tool to have when doing brakes. also don't use pliers to turn the piston as you can **** up the threads on the piston. go out to autozone and rent the tool, it is free. all they do is require you put down a downpayment which you get back when you return the tool.
 

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wanna be car guy
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542 Posts
If you dont have a rubber mallet take a long 2x4 (about 4' long) and just whack the rotor towards the edge. 1 or 2 times on either side and it will pop right off. Something about the physics of the long board? But it works everytime, I promiss
 

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Hakuna Matata, bishes!
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2,354 Posts
Gandalf said:
Well I def. didnt plan on ouncturing any rubber seals, so how does one go about NOT puncturing it??? I went to autozoen and bought this $9 square block thing that will turn the caliper, so I dont have to try the pliers method. I'm so glad I got the zinc coated rotors, since the coating lasted about 20 seconds, once I used the brakes it took the coating right off.
That's how it be, brotha! That coating is meant to come off...it kinda junks up the pads at first, so I hope that you followed the proper BURNISHING procedure that Nissan or the rotor/pads manufacturers suggest. Are they cross-drilled and slotted? When burnishing new rotors for the first time, they'll get REALLY, REALLLY hot and smoke, so be sure to drive long enough without braking (usually best on a country back road) so that they have a chance to cool properly. Enjoy!
 

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Hey guys, just got done removing the back calipers and brakes, and rotors. The rotor can get stuck and everyone is saying to hit it and use WD40, which I guess you can do that if you want to do it the hard way but the easy way is so simple. There’s two small holes in the rotor beside the holes for the studs. Find a bolt to fit the hole and screw it in until you hear a pop. And then screw it back off and slide your rotor off easily. That’s why the holes are there guys ;) your welcome
 
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