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Carrrrrne asada
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Discussion Starter #21
I've heard too many times already about how others have gone in for this recall and their idle being jacked up. The relearn not working to fix it. Then having to go back in for them to fix that. One of the main reasons why I decided against taking it to a dealer and just do it myself.
 

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It sounds like the only symptom my car is showing is long, hard starts. My rpms don't drop, and I have no SES lights. Could the hard starts be due to the CPS? I've been considering changing the fuel pump before reading this thread.
 

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its possible but only barely, the CKP gives a signal to the ecu to kick the fuel pump on when the engine starts cranking, its more likely that your fuel system is not holding pressure from the last shutoff and its taking forever to build pressure, leave your key in the ON position for about 5 seconds after you hear the fuel pump prime up and then start the car, if that makes it go away you need a fuel pump
 

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Took me about 10 minutes to find my 10mm (most of them are at my athletic club), 5 minutes to find the sensor, and 2 minutes to change it. Pretty easy.

I cleared the DTC (crank angle position circuit a) and fired it up with my scan tool plugged in. Fired up a bit rough and threw a random misfire code.

Cleared that and let it idle a minute. Took it for a ride, no problems, no DTCs. Only lights on in the tool were O2 sensor, Evap, and Cat, which is normal when you have a cold exhaust on a cleared ECM.

$22.99 in stock at autozone, $70 special order at advance. Someone said ~$50 at the dealer. This is the one with the metal end. Removed a plastic end one. Had a little oil on it, figure this is normal since it sticks into the block (presumably close the the crank).

Anyway, looks good. Bringing my scan tool and AAA card to work tomorrow though. :)

Thanks for the pictures. On a side note, that bolt that holds the bracket / wiring harness is already missing. I wonder if Nissan is responsible or if it fell out etc.
 

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saint0421 said:
I've heard too many times already about how others have gone in for this recall and their idle being jacked up. The relearn not working to fix it. Then having to go back in for them to fix that. One of the main reasons why I decided against taking it to a dealer and just do it myself.
The ECM recall? I had this problem.
 

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piknockout said:
$22.99 at Autozone? I'm planning on doing mine this weekend, guess I know where to get mine then. Thanks Patrick! ;)
Built to last, eat my ***!
Get in the zone at vatozone.

It's a duralast branded part, but it appears to be the same as the redesigned "nissan". It also says "made in japan" and comes with a pamphlet in "engrish".
 

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Parking Lot Performance
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So last week I took my 02 SpecV in for the ECU recall. Well three days later the SES light goes on. I took it to Autozone to pull the code for me and it said Crankshaft Position sensor. So I took it back to the dealer figuring they would cover it... of course they claim its unrelated. and they said I should replace both the Cam and Crank Position Sensors.

I just bought one (22 bucks from autozone) and changed the crankshaft one. Well the light is still on... do I need to get the code cleared? Or will I really need to do the Cam one as well?

Edit: I did unplug the battery during the swap, so I thought that would of cleared the code but the light came right back on when I started it.
 

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STU STi Build Complete
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Just clear it out using the gas pedal SES check/light removal. I cleared my light before getting the CKPS, installed the new one, and no issues to report. Only issues I had were during autocross runs, this weekend will be the first test if it worked or not. I didn't do the Nissan recall either.

And the whole process took me about 10 minutes to swap out and left my CAI in place. Piece of cake. ;)
 

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Parking Lot Performance
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I cleared the code (did it at Autozone since I couldn't get the pedal trick to work).

The car is fine and didn't need to do the cam sensor.

From the top it wasn't hard to get the sensor out but I kinda did it blind. I just felt around for the sensor and the got the bolt off. It was hard to pry the sensor out but I got it with a little patience. I didn't remove the intake or that bracket, just sacrificed the knuckles a little and got it done in about 20 minutes.
 

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STU STi Build Complete
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JoelAZ said:
The crank position sensor is easier to get at from under the car. Otherwise it's a decent write-up.
By the time you got your car jacked up, put the jackstands in, lowered it down, and got under the car, I was already finished. ;)

It may be easier to do, but it's quicker and not exactly difficult to do from the top.

BTW, first test this weekend at the DC Pro Solo and no issues at all. It worked. :D
 

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hrrm....i may need to throw one in my car as well. my tach hasn't worked properly in over 6 months. almost always on zero. occasionally jumps around, but mostly pinned on zero. all my wiring/connections were tight at the cluster.
 

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Joe M said:
hrrm....i may need to throw one in my car as well. my tach hasn't worked properly in over 6 months. almost always on zero. occasionally jumps around, but mostly pinned on zero. all my wiring/connections were tight at the cluster.
I was getting that, and my engine was skipping briefly on the highway.

They're all crapping out now, and the part has been redesigned, but clearly my car is not one of the ones in the affected recalled VIN range, and therefore Nissan shouldn't take care of it because it is fine.
 

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nice write up
mine crapped out today right before i installed my magnaflow exhaust sys so i had to swing by autozone (did it running straight pipes lol)
anyway gonna go do this before it gets to late
oh yeah and theres oil coming out of my crank pulley.............
 

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powershifting through 6th
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i got the P0335 code which is for CKP and also a cylinder misfire code? wtf?

I am having it delivered to Nissan to see wasup, I hope its not bad :(
 
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