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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, what a nice mod... makes the front end a lot more predictable during cornering. Also makes the front end feel more solid and connected. Thanks to Leo (dekab) for helping out with the install and for being the official insult receiver during the installation.

Tools:

-Needle nose pliers
-22mm sockets (possibly 2)
-22mm open ended wrench
-14mm socket
-ratchet
-breaker bar
-adjustable wrench
-hammer or rubber mallet


1. Jack up your car and put on jackstands. Do not work on your car while on the jack. Do not risk it, dont be stupid.


2. Remove both front wheels.

Boom, what do we got.





3. Using your 14mm socket and ratchet remove these 3 bolts. I call that connection the "rotator connection" because the LCA end rotates on that bracket.




4. Next is the "hinged connection" that is forward of the rotator one. This one uses 22mm sockets which are huge and probably not included in your walmart ratchet set. Go to sears and get urself some new shiny 22's. Use open ended wrench on one side and breaker bar on the other.







5. Then there is the "pivoting connection" on the wheel hub. There is a cotter pin on the end of the thread. Use your needle nose pliers to remove that and be careful not to lose 1 of them like i did. Then using the open ended wrench remove that nut.



Now the tricky part, is that this nut will not simply come off. You have to loosen the stock LCA off the hub and drop it some for the nut to actually be able to slide off.

How hard is it going to be to slide it off? I have no idea how other people do it but mine was a b1tch and a half. I ended up taking off the brakes, rotors and finally grabbed a huge hammer and went berzerk on it and the arm dropped. I have no clue if this is easier for others or if i did standard procedure. Either way i didnt take pics of the brake disassembly because i was desperate/mad/aggravated and just wanted the damned stock arm to come off.

But they gladly came off.....












Here's a comparo of the stocks vs Nismo













To reinstall them it was dumb easy, just put them in the way the stock ones were.
























Mad Gorilla Tuning approves this mod.

 

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Canyon junkie! ( ^o^) <3
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Hahahaha! This is a great write up! I might be ordereing some of those soon! ( ^_^)
 

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qg18det
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1SentraNotEnuff said:
5. Then there is the "pivoting connection" on the wheel hub. There is a cotter pin on the end of the thread. Use your needle nose pliers to remove that and be careful not to lose 1 of them like i did. Then using the open ended wrench remove that nut.
Its a ball joint, and you really shouldnt be re using the cotter pins anyway.

How hard is it going to be to slide it off? I have no idea how other people do it but mine was a b1tch and a half. I ended up taking off the brakes, rotors and finally grabbed a huge hammer and went berzerk on it and the arm dropped. I have no clue if this is easier for others or if i did standard procedure.
You should be able to use a small hammer and hit the control arm at teh ball joint end to loosen it, and then use a pry bar to force it apart. If that doesnt work, theres a special tool for separating ball joints. I dont know what the real name is, but Ive heard it called a "tuning fork", its just sort of a y shaped wedge that you drive between the control arm and the ball joint
EDIT: what QGs came with no fsb? My GXE has one...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bengxe said:
Its a ball joint, and you really shouldnt be re using the cotter pins anyway.


You should be able to use a small hammer and hit the control arm at teh ball joint end to loosen it, and then use a pry bar to force it apart. If that doesnt work, theres a special tool for separating ball joints. I dont know what the real name is, but Ive heard it called a "tuning fork", its just sort of a y shaped wedge that you drive between the control arm and the ball joint
EDIT: what QGs came with no fsb? My GXE has one...
thanks for the infos and stuff.

1.8 come with no sway bars so i assume XE come with no sway bars either.
 

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Is that the nismo hard rubber bushings or is it something else? I thought that the nismo set comes w/ bushing pressed into new control arms, but the control arms themselves are the same as stock? Or are the lca on the spec diff from the xe/gxe?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OguNinja said:
Is that the nismo hard rubber bushings or is it something else? I thought that the nismo set comes w/ bushing pressed into new control arms, but the control arms themselves are the same as stock? Or are the lca on the spec diff from the xe/gxe?
Yes, the Nismo LCA's i installed are part of the Nismo Hard Rubber Bushing Kit.

The LCA themselves are the exact same thing as the stock ones. The bushings on the LCA's are already pressed in so you dont have to worry about that.
 

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King of OT
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Where you gettin all your money pimp gorilla man!
 

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...Afraid to Lose Control
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THis doesn't necessarily relate directly to this thread, but sort of... anyways,

I have been noticing creaking coming from the front of my car for about 3-4 months now. I have since, replaced my front struts (they were blown to hell) w/ KYB's, put on my Spec-V FSTB, and replaced strut mounts w/ Spec-V Strut mounts (w/ bigger center bolt to hold FSTB). I did get bushings/sway bar links, but took them back when I realized my struts were blown. Everything sounded ok for about 2-3 weeks after all that, but the creaking is back when I go over bumps/speedbumps. It is also really cold so that's just icing on the cake.

Anyways, my question is this... I now am about 97% sure it is my bushings that are bad... would you recommend I go buy the Nismo Hard-Rubber Bushing Kit, or just go buy new bushings? Is it really worth the money to get the kit? I believe the bushings/swaybar links were about 50-70 bucks (not sure as that was about 3 months ago)

I also have a GXE (01) and a perfectly capable mechanic to do any sort of work, so getting it put on is no issue (though it doesn't seem that hard)

Thoughts?


Oh yeah, good write up, nice and stupid worded (word?) for us lehman people who don't exactly know every piece of the car yet. Pictures are key. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
BlackNight said:
THis doesn't necessarily relate directly to this thread, but sort of... anyways,

I have been noticing creaking coming from the front of my car for about 3-4 months now. I have since, replaced my front struts (they were blown to hell) w/ KYB's, put on my Spec-V FSTB, and replaced strut mounts w/ Spec-V Strut mounts (w/ bigger center bolt to hold FSTB). I did get bushings/sway bar links, but took them back when I realized my struts were blown. Everything sounded ok for about 2-3 weeks after all that, but the creaking is back when I go over bumps/speedbumps. It is also really cold so that's just icing on the cake.

Anyways, my question is this... I now am about 97% sure it is my bushings that are bad... would you recommend I go buy the Nismo Hard-Rubber Bushing Kit, or just go buy new bushings? Is it really worth the money to get the kit? I believe the bushings/swaybar links were about 50-70 bucks (not sure as that was about 3 months ago)

I also have a GXE (01) and a perfectly capable mechanic to do any sort of work, so getting it put on is no issue (though it doesn't seem that hard)

Thoughts?


Oh yeah, good write up, nice and stupid worded (word?) for us lehman people who don't exactly know every piece of the car yet. Pictures are key. :thumbsup:
idk man. youd have to compare how much new bushings are. i dont know if they sell the stock bushings loose or if they sell them pressed into a stock LCA already. If they come loose then youre gonna spend money on labor getting them put on. If they come already pressed its gonna be a piece of cake to put them on (compared to pressing them on)

the nismo lca kit runs around 260 bucks so do the math and see what's best for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
MN01GXE said:
Good writeup - now replace your badly-scored rotors! :D
I will, i already have them and the new pads also but im waiting for them to go out completely because theyre working fine so there's no need to change em. I still have over half of the pads left.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
pugnex said:
Where you gettin all your money pimp gorilla man!
selling bananas! [gorilla grunt]

Btw, in the little time i have used them i feel a very big difference and the car is actually now BEGGING for the FSB to put on... the car is really tight in high speed turns but the front of the car sways side to side so its like the last piece of the puzzle waiting to be put on.
 

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NOS Program 2.0
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bengxe said:
Its a ball joint, and you really shouldnt be re using the cotter pins anyway.


You should be able to use a small hammer and hit the control arm at teh ball joint end to loosen it, and then use a pry bar to force it apart. If that doesnt work, theres a special tool for separating ball joints. I dont know what the real name is, but Ive heard it called a "tuning fork", its just sort of a y shaped wedge that you drive between the control arm and the ball joint
EDIT: what QGs came with no fsb? My GXE has one...
ball joint separator is the name
 

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i think i own one of those fork things. my pops left all his damn tools here so i just have thigns laying around. good install sOn!!
 

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From here to there
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BlackNight said:
***edited...

Anyways, my question is this... I now am about 97% sure it is my bushings that are bad... would you recommend I go buy the Nismo Hard-Rubber Bushing Kit, or just go buy new bushings? Is it really worth the money to get the kit? I believe the bushings/swaybar links were about 50-70 bucks (not sure as that was about 3 months ago)

I also have a GXE (01) and a perfectly capable mechanic to do any sort of work, so getting it put on is no issue (though it doesn't seem that hard)

Thoughts?


Oh yeah, good write up, nice and stupid worded (word?) for us lehman people who don't exactly know every piece of the car yet. Pictures are key. :thumbsup:

I made a threadt about this. The bushings are NOT for sale by themselves. Nissan sells the whole arms with the rubber bushings already pressed in. Like Fes stated, the Nismos are "hard rubber" but rubber nontheless.

Energy Suspension makes a Polyurethane kit for all B15 which is part number 7-3112 (r) for red. The kit includes the Front position set (a two parts bushings with a metal sleeve ES part #2485); and a Rear position bushing (a single bushing ES part#3410 with a metal washer)

Using this ES kit you reuse your LCAs (just the metal arms) but you have to press out the metal OEM bushing casings. Press in just the new poly kit and re-instal in car.... voila!
 

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...Afraid to Lose Control
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Thanks for the replies.

1Sentra- I did at one time have the bushings/swaybar links needed to replace the ones I have on my car... but I took them back because I just replaced my struts and thought that solved the problem. And I have 2 very capable mechanics to help me put them on... no problem.

Moreso, here is another question, I'm wanting to slowly work on my suspension for my car.... would this be a good time (since the bushings are bad anyways) to get the Hard rubber Bushing Kit? Or should I just get new ones (as I said before 50-70 bucks, idk) and wait to get the Nismo HRBK?

Here may be another thought, If I were to get teh Nismo HRBK I would probably wait till spring time... whereas if I get the stock bushings, I would get them sooner then later. I woudl just have to put up with the creaking noises until spring...

Sry, if what I said doesn't really give you anything else to comment on... I'm just looking at my options as I slowly start to work on my car.
 

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YOU TOOK A HAMMER TO IT HOW DARE YOU!!!

JK Standard procedure is a fork or hammer. I know how you feel about getting it loose those damned things just do not want to come off.

Good write-up.

Suscribing for easier find when I need it. :D
 
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