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2busy4b15/but watch it
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not to rant on a ranted subject but if a solid beam axle were to bend. there would be absolutely no point to it being solid. they could have left it IRS :)

the point is that the beam does not flex. the point of the beam is not to felx. and there is a damn good reason why the beam(and RSB) is attached to the trailing arms.. becusae they DO move individually.

any one else? :)

lets make a new thread for this debate:)
 

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Ok, a couple of questions. 2000SR20, you said you have spring rates of 7/6, I'm assuming this is f/r?
If so have you tried reversing this. I was thinking of going 6/7 or even 6/8 on a set of Teins. I like the car a bit more loose than most.
Also what are your settings on the dampers?
What, if any, camber plates are you using?
I find that if you can be smooth with a loose car, it will be fast...but if the car understeers, it doesn't matter, as much, if you are smooth or not. You still need to be smooth, but the car is harder to drive competitively
 

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Just out of curiosity...
How is the ride on the street?
I don't really care too much, as obviously its going to be harsher, thats the trade off, and I'm willing to live with it. But how harsh is it?
 

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Again, I can't talk for Danny 'cause I don't have that suspension setup. Hopefully he'll come out of hiding soon :p He does seem to like it, he has said before that he would like to give it more negative camber for racing, but for the amount of street driving he does, it's just not practical for the tires. He has adjusted the settings on the damping force a few times this year, I can't remember what he settled on.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
....crawling out of cave.....


Yes, my spring rates are 7K front 6K rear. Honestly, and against what Tony believes, the car would be virtually undriveable if you swapped the springs. I have the JICs, Nismo rear bar and Nismo bushings. Autocrossing, the rear is consistently loose, I find myself driving the car with the throttle in order to keep the rear planted. If you lift slightly and turn in simultaneously the car changes direction instantaneously then a quick dip into the throttle plants the rear again.

Ride quality, harsher than stock but not as bad as any aftermarket spring on factory struts. Bottoming out is no longer a problem. I usually am in the 4-7 click range on the street and have been autocrossing 10F/13R and have been using 10F/10R on the track.

For those that know him, I had Elliott Harvey drive my car this weekend (he drives an NX2000) and is the only person locally who beats me in STS. He was surprised that it behaved the same way that his car does despite it being totally different. It handled the same, had the same power, just felt like it had a bunch of extra weight, which it does.
 

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Very cool! How did he do against you in your car?

I think that for your car and your driving style, you have found a nice suspension setup. The only reason that I think that the JIC's would be great with the reversed rates is because I know my own car, and they would do much different things with mine as opposed to yours with the full interior and stuff. Maybe...
What do you set your damping to on the street?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
2000SR20 said:
....I usually am in the 4-7 click range on the street...
He ran a 71.9 in my car and I ran a 70.9 on my last run...the only one where the cones weren't running in fear:D:D:D
 

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LMFAO!!! That's great that you beat him in your car. Must make you feel good about your driving!! I have never been beaten in my car....no one has ever come within 2 seconds of me at any given track.

I noticed that you said 4-7 clicks....just wondering if there's some setting that you often refer to for the street.....like 4 front, 7 back? What? What?? lol
-t
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I know Elliott is a great driver, he's probably been doing this for almost 20 years. I knew that if he beat my times that its my driving that sucks. I'm sure he'd get alot closer with some more seat time in it. The main problem in STS is that the car is simply too heavy, I'm more than likely going up to pick up my "new" '91 Civic Si HB this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
fluid1 said:
BASTARD!!! lmfao....I gotta see this
If I can drive worth a damn I'm going to try to make a run at the Gold at Nationals this year. nest year, it'll probably get gutted and caged to be an ITA car. I already have a laundry list of parts to buy...my bank account is going to hate me...there goes my secret stash! :D:D:D
 

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Immature Tough Guy
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I took this from a book called SPEED SECRETS. Very good info:

> Look – and think – as far ahead as possible
> The less you do with the controls, the less chance of error
> The slower you move, the faster the car moves
> Squeeze the brake pedal on, and ease off
> The throttle is not an on-off switch
> The less you turn the steering wheel, the faster you will go
> A shift should be made gently and with finesse
> Brake first, then downshift
> Smooth is fast
> Look and drive the grippiest pavement
> It is better to go into a corner slow and come out of it fast
> Build up the tire’s cornering force slowly

Any comments?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
This is as true as it gets. Unfortunately, on an autocross course things happen so fast that you really don't appreciate it. Once you get out on a roadcourse and drive the same tail *** wagging just hint at lifting the throttle and you'll be backwards on an autocross and the car is perfectly neutral without ever hinting of pushing or oversteering...without changing the setup...you'll realize just how much smoothness pays off.

Going out on a roadcourse is almost a ballet...At every point in the course, there is a specific location where you want the car to be. Going into the turn you want to set the car up in the right spot so that you can use maximum (straight line) braking. While on the brakes, you perform a flawless heel-toe to match revs to your lower gear of choice. If it weren't for the exhaust note changing, your instructor should not even feel the downshift...it should be that smooth. Keep in mind that you tires should be at their limit trying to stop the car...rev match wrong and you'll lock them up. As you approach your turn in point (which should be a permanent mark on the course, cone markers can be hit or blown over, rather look for a mark on the asphalt, maybe a change from asphalt to concrete as in sebring) pretend you have a rod attached from the brakes to the steering. As the brake pedal comes up, you start turn in, gradually changing the tires stopping grip to cornering grip. Start getting back on the throttle gently as you slowly unwind the steering and let the car track out (don't pinch the car) to maintain the most momentum through the turn, into the straight and to the next turn/braking zone.

Place the car wrong, brake too little, too late too early, turn in to hard, too late, too early and you don't go through the turn with the most speed.

Once you drive a road course and see how rewarding it is, your driving at an autocross will also change. Your hands will slow down. You'll lose less steering. You will be quicker.
 

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122 Hours Of Fear
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Hmmmm , I see there's a forum devoted to Auto-X / Rally , etc...I think some of you people - Dangling Fury , JP , KrAsH , SR20dee , fluid1 , 2000SR20 , etc...should start your own Auto-X based website . :)
 

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I took this from a book called SPEED SECRETS. Very good info:

> Look – and think – as far ahead as possible
> The less you do with the controls, the less chance of error
Steve, this is where my one hand steering wheel tactics help me. This is also where my stomping the clutch hurts me. lol
> The slower you move, the faster the car moves
> Squeeze the brake pedal on, and ease off
> The throttle is not an on-off switch
> The less you turn the steering wheel, the faster you will go
Again, with the steering wheel....
> A shift should be made gently and with finesse
> Brake first, then downshift
> Smooth is fast
> Look and drive the grippiest pavement
> It is better to go into a corner slow and come out of it fast
Most important part of autocross, AFAIC...go slow in the slow parts.
> Build up the tire’s cornering force slowly
This I do NOT do. I am very bad at doing the 'Tony turn' where I whip the wheel the opposite direction of the turn right before I actually turn the correct direction. While it sometimes helps on corners when I want a lot of oversteer and for the rear to come out, but I tend to do it on every turn, like I'm driving in Project Gotham. I REALLY need to work on this.
 

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122 Hours Of Fear
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fluid1 said:

This I do NOT do. I am very bad at doing the 'Tony turn' where I whip the wheel the opposite direction of the turn right before I actually turn the correct direction.
Man that's the " Rockford " . :D Ever watch Rockford Files ? That was his one monve he did while driving his car .
 
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