Seems a little high. Personally in the SE-I would change cap and rotor and plugs by 50K miles. I used the Bosch+4's . Some will tell you that the performance of them is not up to origional-but I can't tell any difference. Bosch are about 7 bucks each or maybe a little less. They had a rebate on them when I bought and the 4 cost less than $20. I replaced at around 35K miles (plugs, rutor, and cap). When it starts to run crappy and gas milage and performance are off then its either plugs, cap, rotor---or it could be other things. You could put it on a diagnostic machine and spend $100 to find out that $40 in parts are bad. (Just go change them out.)
The service dept @ Super Autobacs says the NGK plugs I'd need are $16.99 each. That sounded like a ripoff.
The problem is that the engine "jerks" and shudders as I drive. When I'm stopped, the idle just drops every few seconds and acts like it wants to stall. There isn't any noticeable difference in gas mileage and I just had the oil changed Saturday, so I'm left to assume it's the spark plugs and as you said, maybe the cap and rotor too.
Does it sound like that could be the only problem? Or could it be more serious? Thanks for the help.
Get a spark plug socket that fits them and when the engine is cool just pull the plug wires out of the valve cover, stick the socket on and take them out like you would a bolt. When you put the new ones in do just the oposite but just go hand tight with them, if you over tighten them you can mess up the threads. It's really not hard to do even if you've never worked on a car before so save yourself the money and do it yourself.
I posted a complete procedure for removing spark plugs-I'll look for it.
OK. Here it is:
1. Make sure engine is cooled down. Removing plugs from a hot engine can screw up threads in the block in an aluminum head.
2. When removing the old plug it usually comes out tight most of the way. If you get to rammy you can screw up threads. I usually loosen a half turn to one turn and then go clockwise the same amount. Keep repeating until the plug is out. Take your time - the friction of loosening the plug can also damage threads. The harder the plug is to remove-the more time you should take.
3. Before putting the new plugs in clean off the threads of an old one with a toothbrush and then put a small amount of oil on it. Thread it carefully into the hole. make sure you start it by hand at least a couple of turns. If you need a wrench to get it in-don't use much force. Remove it a couple times and clean and reoil the threads.
4. When you can get the old plug in and out all the way using your fingers you are ready to put the new plug in. btw you can take a short piece of ruber hose of say 3/8" ID to hold the plug while screwing it in ot out.
5. thread the new plug all the way in by hand-no wrench
5. I have had better luck removing plugs the next time if I use synthetic oil instead of anti-sieze on the threads-. Perhaps I use the wrong brand of anti-sieze . Make sure you use a torque wrench and I personally don't go to the max torque specified. I usually go halfway between max and minimum.
Anyway I know my method seems extreme. But it's a cake walk compared to installing a helicoil in a screwed block hole. I've installed/removed many sets of plugs from GM V-6's and thats why I'm paranoid. If you haven't removed/installed the back 3 plugs in a GM V-6-you haven't lived.