[Sv399]

Hey Guys,

Is there an alternative to the anti-sparkplug fouler? I want to install a header finally but I want something that will tune the car. Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
D

 

[Sv399]

Sorry meant to post that under the SPEC V one.

 

[i68k]

you wont need a tuner just for simple parts, youre still within your oem fuel mapping. you can use a simple afr tuner if it makes you feel better. other alternatives all inclue rewiring, you can extend your o2 sensor past your midpipe cat, you could sim the wires, you could also use a resistor like the sim and wire the second o2 to the first o2, im not sure how to do this tho. the anti-fouler just bolts in, after you drill one out to fit the o2 sensor inside of it, there are no side-effects from using anti-foulers, other than they rust.

simply, drill one anti-fouler and put it on lower o2 sensor
insert other anti-fouler into midpipe o2 sensor hole
put the anti-foulers together, then plug in the o2 sensor

 

[Sv399]

you wont need a tuner just for simple parts, youre still within your oem fuel mapping. you can use a simple afr tuner if it makes you feel better. other alternatives all inclue rewiring, you can extend your o2 sensor past your midpipe cat, you could sim the wires, you could also use a resistor like the sim and wire the second o2 to the first o2, im not sure how to do this tho. the anti-fouler just bolts in, after you drill one out to fit the o2 sensor inside of it, there are no side-effects from using anti-foulers, other than they rust.

simply, drill one anti-fouler and put it on lower o2 sensor
insert other anti-fouler into midpipe o2 sensor hole
put the anti-foulers together, then plug in the o2 sensor

Hey,

Thanks for the response. Well, I just bought a SRS header from MarkSpecV with his custom made o2 spacer. I will go with the suggested route and not worry about it then. What you said in the other thread makes a lot of sense. I just want the engine to run efficiently. Something about the spacer just made me think it was...like a cheap fix I guess but it seems to be more of a simple easy option.

Thank you,
D

 

[i68k]

well if you get those from markspecv that are custom drilled already, that just saves you some work, now its just bolt them in. it is a cheap fix, but is also reliable, like said as long as there's no exhaust leaks on the spacers or near the o2 sensors, you will be good. that hardest thing about installing a header is getting the old header off, without stripping the bolts, make sure you get new bolts already if yours are really rusty, and clean off the stud threads before hand, and use plenty of pb blaster to loosen them up.

 

[Sv399]

well if you get those from markspecv that are custom drilled already, that just saves you some work, now its just bolt them in. it is a cheap fix, but is also reliable, like said as long as there's no exhaust leaks on the spacers or near the o2 sensors, you will be good. that hardest thing about installing a header is getting the old header off, without stripping the bolts, make sure you get new bolts already if yours are really rusty, and clean off the stud threads before hand, and use plenty of pb blaster to loosen them up.

By new bolts you mean every both un-bolted should be replaced right? Should I purchase a new lower gasket too? I know the header comes with one to the manifold.

 

[i68k]

you should get both gaskets new, sometimes the ones that come with the header are crappy, im not sure what markspecv sends out. i would get the top gasket (4 ports) from nissan, seems the best gasket, but is your call on using the foam one probably provided. assuming you got the 4-1 srs header, for the bottom, any donut gasket will do, but it has to be new, as it will crush into place.

if your header bolts on top are rusty, just get new ones, they will be difficult to take off, and you dont put rounded bolts back on. the bolts at the donut are usually ok, but it depends on how they come off, if theyre rusty etc, same with the springs. you will need to loosen the alternator, hopefully you know how to take the belt off.

 

[Sv399]

Ooh boy lol. I will need to learn how to get the alternator off.

 

[i68k]

you need to search for this stuff, use the 'search' in the blue menubar to search this site, or use google or something. here's how to take alternator and belt off. remember, you might not have to completely remove the alternator, you just need to loosen it enough to get at the manifold bolts behind it and remove the header.

here:
http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=186772

 

[Sv399]

you need to search for this stuff, use the 'search' in the blue menubar to search this site, or use google or something. here's how to take alternator and belt off. remember, you might not have to completely remove the alternator, you just need to loosen it enough to get at the manifold bolts behind it and remove the header.

here:
http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=186772

Hey thanks! You don't have to do that. I will search. I was just making conversation. Thanks for all your help so far!!

 

[Sv399]

you should get both gaskets new, sometimes the ones that come with the header are crappy, im not sure what markspecv sends out. i would get the top gasket (4 ports) from nissan, seems the best gasket, but is your call on using the foam one probably provided. assuming you got the 4-1 srs header, for the bottom, any donut gasket will do, but it has to be new, as it will crush into place.

if your header bolts on top are rusty, just get new ones, they will be difficult to take off, and you dont put rounded bolts back on. the bolts at the donut are usually ok, but it depends on how they come off, if theyre rusty etc, same with the springs. you will need to loosen the alternator, hopefully you know how to take the belt off.

What is cheaper? Getting the bolts here: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=header+bolts&submit= I do realize these bolts are for a 1.8L. I guess the real question is what should I pay for them?

or dealer or other?

Thanks,
D

 

[i68k]

for normal nuts and bolts i goto the hardware store, lowes, home depot, etc, this is where you can get stainless, aluminum, galvanized, etc. for the specialty bolts, you can probably get most of them at parts stores, but will cost a little more than the hardware store. the parts store should also be able to lookup what nuts/bolts you need, so theres no searching for the right one like at the hardware store. lastly, you can get any part at the dealer, probably the most expensive parts.

 

[DareDevil]

You may also consider an electronic sensor simulator. There are still a few floating around on this and other Sentra forums. I have one that's never been installed, and seems to be a simple alternative. Just some wiring.

 

[Sv399]

You may also consider an electronic sensor simulator. There are still a few floating around on this and other Sentra forums. I have one that's never been installed, and seems to be a simple alternative. Just some wiring.

Thank you for the heads up! I will look into that.

~D