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From here to there
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You have revived a thread which has been dormant over a year, please close all open applications and reboot your system...
 

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is there anyone can tell me the easiest way that what should i do after lowering my car? anything else that i should get from afteramarket?
 

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Simian Rex
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Discussion Starter #83
It's pretty straightforward, actually. If you're just doing springs, then just remember to cut your bump stops down to 1" before you reassemble everything. If you wanted to go nuts, you can build complete preassemblies from the upper mount down to the spring perch, but at that price point, you'd be better buying the NISMO drop-in suspension (which works on any B15), because it's cheaper.

My B15 is long gone, but I learned a lot about what I want and need out of an alignment job. I tell the technician, "I want you to turn the toes out until they're red, then turn them in until they're just barely green, and then lock the adjuster nuts down." I watch him work, and if I like what he did, I give him a six pack of beer on my way out the door. :)
 

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geezinondowntheroad
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Wow Zombie thread revival & a response from the zombie himself, no offense.
 

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spec v

whats up guys i just purchased an 02 spec v, my dilemma is that it is lowered... i took the wheels off yesterday and it seems to have tein coil overs installed on it, this is all well and good but the inside of the tires are shot... i guess the previous owner never had an alinement, although i didn't measure the front tires are pretty - chambered... what do i need to do to get the most tire life? will me taking it to get aligned work? thanks kinda new to the nissan world...
 

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Simian Rex
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Discussion Starter #87
It's best to do the alignment and tires within a day or two of each other, prefer tires then alignment.
 

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geezinondowntheroad
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CowboyDren said:
It's best to do the alignment and tires within a day or two of each other, prefer tires then alignment.
Dude, is Elvis with you? :D
 

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Man Im glad someone brung this up Bcuz I've destoyed my 17's and went threw 2 tires in the front in 6 months and my car's stock height!! thanx guys
 

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Iknowyoulovereadingso..
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CowboyDren said:
I liked -1° of camber so much on my all-season tires that I went back for -1.5°. 0" of toe was a little wander-y, so I had that set to -0.02°, and my on-center feel came right back. 6,000 miles later, I have to use a dial micrometer to see the difference in treadwear between the inside and outside shoulder.
Blah is is exactly what Im debating, either going with 0* toe or not.

Anyone else have experience with 0* toe and -1* camber?
 

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I strongly recommend you do, also, be sure you do it right, I am stuck with my springs and coils and everytime i hit a bump i feel like the car is going to crack in half and my *** is going to follow with it
 

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I lowered my car didn't cut the bump stops. also i am still running the stock struts. Would the KYB gr2's be a good purchase. I am looking for aftermarket struts that do no require fabrication. any suggestions. and from what i have read on this thread i was thinking about having my local race shop set my camber at -1.25 and toe out to 1/8th or 1/16th. Would also like a little more clarification on how to slot the strut mount.
 

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GR2's are basically a stock replacement. You are going to want to look into a beefier strut. Koni's are not that bad to install up front.

You need to slot/elongate the top bolt holes to get more camber. Make sure you do it correctly and that the nuts are properly torqued down when you're done. You don't want those bad boys slipping mid-corner!
 

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I was looking at some adjustable koni's i just want some good aftermarket shocks that already come with the spring perch's on them, i dont want to fabricate that.
 
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