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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Took a couple pics of the process. Couldn't find any posts on here that had any detailed pics so I figured I'd put them up here. I've had these in for about two months and no problems at all. This is definitelly a mod that I would recommend to everyone. I did this in my driveway with a set of tools, two jackstands, jack (duh), a torque wrench (torque the FOUR bolts attaching the crossmember to the chasis to about 50 ~ 55 ft/lbs, make sure you don't destroy the rubber that's on the crossmember or you'll be susceptible to yet another noise coming out of your sentra and we all know there's enough already) and about 4 hours on a Sunday afternoon. One suggestion, when putting the crossmember back in with the MMIs in it, use some petroleum jelly and lube it up, it'll make your job of squeezing the crossmember back in a LOT easier. ES polyurethane is not gonna be damaged by Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline). Ok here are the pics:


The jackstand / tranny jack arrangement I used


You can see where the bolt for the rear mount was right above the axle. This one can be a pain to get to if u don't have long enaugh wrenches.


Rear mount bracket.


Unscrewing this little piece and getting it out of the way makes it a little easier to wiggle the crossmemeber out of the car, it's a bushing that attaches the exhaust to the back of the crossmemeber.


Front mount bracket, this is the easier one of the two.


The crossmember with the MMIs in all its glory :) You can see the four holes and bolts at the opposing ends of the crossmember that need to be torqued to about 50~55 ft/lbs. The bolts holding the MMIs in need not be torqued, just don't overdo it or you'll strip the bolts / brackets (if you're that strong).


Just another view of the car on jack stands.
 

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Instead of petroleum jelly, just use WD40, or another lubricant. It's much less messy, and works better.
 

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Nice write up...wish I had a floor jack to lift my car higher when I installed mine. I couldn't get it any higher than the lowest setting on my jack stands. So yeah that was a squeeze to get under there.
 

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Not a bad write up, I used ramps instead of jack stands, always afraid I’m going to knock them over. I was able to install the front MM w/o loosening/removing the rear bolts. hope I can do the same when I install the rear. I used a 18 3/4 breaker bar (still had trouble breaking them lose lol) to loosen, and torque wrench to reinstall them I torque the to MM bolt 55lb and CM bolts to 65lb.
Edit: almost forgot I used wd-40 also (like spraying your hands with ice in cold weather lol)
 

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4 hours?!?!?! :eek:

This can be done in less than an hour, easily. Even taking my time laying on my back on the freezing floor of my garage last winter I did this in around 45mins. My only major issue was not removing the rear mount from the cross member. I had to wiggle it alot to get it out. I could have been done in less than 20 minutes if I had just taken the two bolt off the cross member and taken it out in two peices.

Very good write up, and great pictures.
 

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shift_Twisted said:
4 hours?!?!?! :eek:

This can be done in less than an hour, easily. Even taking my time laying on my back on the freezing floor of my garage last winter I did this in around 45mins. My only major issue was not removing the rear mount from the cross member. I had to wiggle it alot to get it out. I could have been done in less than 20 minutes if I had just taken the two bolt off the cross member and taken it out in two peices.

Very good write up, and great pictures.
LOL I missed the 4 hour part, yea front MMI only took like 15 minutes
 

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45 mins here and that was me SQUEEZING under the car with barely any room to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks for the props guys. Yea it took about 4 hours, however that did include about 2 hours of procrastination plus time to take the pics and etc. I also had a little bit of a hard time getting that bolt from the rear mount out. Overall if I didn't screw around and hurried up it probably would have taken hour and a half max.

angel2167882,
I definitelly feel awsome about it, it's amazing how much of a difference a little bit of polyurethane can make :) The most noticeable things are the shifts being a little bit easier, the car seems louder around 3 to 4 thousand rpms, and overall it makes the chassis and engine seem a lot more connected together. In my opinion Nissan should have made the stock mounts stiffer to begin with. Oh yea and ever since I installed these all the squeeks I had during engine startup / shut off and clutch engagement dissappeared, now when I shut it off all I hear is the air in the CAI (that makes me happy).
 

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All 3 times I have put/taken out MMI, I never took the crossmember off the car completely, and I left the mounts on it. I unbolted it, let it hung there, slid (ot took out) the MMI. Saves time and is so much easier; just raise it, it lines up easily (since it was never completely removed), put the bolts back on.
 

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El Greco
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AlienJedi said:
So r u saying u didnt need to support the tranny and such? What parts will I need to support from under the vehilce when doing this...just ordered it and I am sure it has directions, so you can ignore me for now if ya want.

No, You do need to support the tranny w/ a jack, like in the picture. I just did not remove the crossmember from under the car. If you unbolt the 2 bolts, it will drop but stay "trapped" hanging loose. You can slide the MMI and then just raise it a few inches up till it lines up w/ the bolt holes and bolt it, as opposed to fighting your way to complety remove the crossmember.put it back on.
 

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AlienJedi said:
So r u saying u didnt need to support the tranny and such? What parts will I need to support from under the vehilce when doing this...just ordered it and I am sure it has directions, so you can ignore me for now if ya want.
Jacking up the tranny is not a must, but it greatly helps when trying to get the motor mount bolts back into place.
 
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