Engine noise video
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Oh yea details...
It's a 2005 sentra spec V with 110k miles.
I swapped out the precat for a header when I bought it at 60k miles hoping to avoid the head problems. I also took off the upper half of the intake manifold and put loctite on the butterfly valves.
I guess it burned more oil than expected and it started making this noise after I passed someone. I found that it took 4 quarts of oil to have enough... the oil change is 4 quarts without a filter.... It was completely out of oil.
I plan to get the head rebuilt at a machine shop, but would like to know if this sounds like the bottom end...
It's a 2005 sentra spec V with 110k miles.
I swapped out the precat for a header when I bought it at 60k miles hoping to avoid the head problems. I also took off the upper half of the intake manifold and put loctite on the butterfly valves.
I guess it burned more oil than expected and it started making this noise after I passed someone. I found that it took 4 quarts of oil to have enough... the oil change is 4 quarts without a filter.... It was completely out of oil.
I plan to get the head rebuilt at a machine shop, but would like to know if this sounds like the bottom end...
did you replace the 4 quarts, like refill your oil before you took the video, or was the video taken without oil? you would need to fill it back up and see what it sounds like.
im not sure how you didnt notice it sooner, didnt you hear this sound when taking hard right hand turns on the throttle? that usually means your oil is very low.
you can use the screwdriver butt to ear method to find a more exact location of the sound.
using a catless header is to avoid precat failure problems, which affect both top and bottom end, due to both intake and exhaust valves being open simultaneously for a short time, the ceramic can easily pass into the combustion chamber. but from the sounds of it, it is hard to tell whether the noise is top or bottom end, regardless, you were burning oil fast, which probably means your rings were already fried. so you would still have to rebuild the bottom end, at least rering the pistons.
also be sure to check your oil pressure, incase it overheated the bearings/gaskets, as you can ruin a mechanical pump if theres no fluid to cool it. the oil pressure is in the fsm, i think at least 15psi idling, dont forget to consider your new oil weight.
EDIT: one thing you can do, is add a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer to your oil, if the noise goes away you have only light damage, but if the noise persists you have mechanical damage which requires taking stuff apart. assuming you still have oil pressure of course.
im not sure how you didnt notice it sooner, didnt you hear this sound when taking hard right hand turns on the throttle? that usually means your oil is very low.
you can use the screwdriver butt to ear method to find a more exact location of the sound.
using a catless header is to avoid precat failure problems, which affect both top and bottom end, due to both intake and exhaust valves being open simultaneously for a short time, the ceramic can easily pass into the combustion chamber. but from the sounds of it, it is hard to tell whether the noise is top or bottom end, regardless, you were burning oil fast, which probably means your rings were already fried. so you would still have to rebuild the bottom end, at least rering the pistons.
also be sure to check your oil pressure, incase it overheated the bearings/gaskets, as you can ruin a mechanical pump if theres no fluid to cool it. the oil pressure is in the fsm, i think at least 15psi idling, dont forget to consider your new oil weight.
EDIT: one thing you can do, is add a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer to your oil, if the noise goes away you have only light damage, but if the noise persists you have mechanical damage which requires taking stuff apart. assuming you still have oil pressure of course.
I replaced the 4 quarts
I didn't notice any noise because the car is loud (header and nismo exhaust). I will try to find out the oil pressure if I run it again, but I have a feeling since the oil light never came on that my car isn't getting a correct reading or any reading at all for oil pressure.
I didn't notice any noise because the car is loud (header and nismo exhaust). I will try to find out the oil pressure if I run it again, but I have a feeling since the oil light never came on that my car isn't getting a correct reading or any reading at all for oil pressure.
that definately sounded awefully loud if you have header/exhaust and the ticking is still overpowering all the other sound. did you locate the exact source of the sound? if youre going to rebuild it (which seems most likely), dont forget to consider things like 08+ headgasket and headbolts, motor mounts and other nicer bushings, maybe jwt bsr, things you can do during the rebuild. it would be a good idea to at least rering your pistons (and check the pistons/rods/bearings/etc ) , and youll be good with that nice head shave as well.
you are sure its nothing stuck to your belt, or your belt falling apart or something, yes? hopefully you didnt jump the chain either. it is an actual knocking sound, not an electrical clicking sound yes?
you are sure its nothing stuck to your belt, or your belt falling apart or something, yes? hopefully you didnt jump the chain either. it is an actual knocking sound, not an electrical clicking sound yes?
Im not looking for 5 extra horsepower in a slow car
I plan to either buy a rebuilt head or have my head rebuilt regardless(since it was burning oil) I plan to take the bottom end apart to see what damage has been done, I just need to cut my rusty exhaust bolts and remove the subframe so I can remove the upper oil pan.
I plan to either buy a rebuilt head or have my head rebuilt regardless(since it was burning oil) I plan to take the bottom end apart to see what damage has been done, I just need to cut my rusty exhaust bolts and remove the subframe so I can remove the upper oil pan.
everything i recommended in the previous post is generally to strength the reliability and longevity of the motor, not to add power. the 08+ headbolts are forged better, the 08+ headgasket has an extra layer where leaks were common, etc. the only thing that directly adds power is the jwt bsr. without your balance shafts you will be fine, as long as you dont mind a little more vibration in the chassis, and you have the advantage of increasing your oil capacity to 5 quarts, instead of 4. as if your balance shafts fail, as they do occasionally from spinning so fast, the amount of damage is usually beyond a rebuild, usually a motor replacement due to significant damage from shrapnel, or even being chained directly to the crank gears during failure.
it is definately a good idea to rip out the bottom end, make sure you have gaskets and rings already, you will want to use the new ones. if youre doing this yourself, take your time when putting the pans and stuff back on with the rtv, make sure you do it right the first time so it doesnt leak and you have to do it all over again. things like tolerance or clearenace of rods, pistons, etc you can determine once the motor is apart and you see the actual damage. ive had 3 precat failures, and im still on original pistons/rods/etc that now have 270k miles. when i did the rebuild, the piston skirts were a little worn, but definately still useable, so i threw them back in.
it is definately a good idea to rip out the bottom end, make sure you have gaskets and rings already, you will want to use the new ones. if youre doing this yourself, take your time when putting the pans and stuff back on with the rtv, make sure you do it right the first time so it doesnt leak and you have to do it all over again. things like tolerance or clearenace of rods, pistons, etc you can determine once the motor is apart and you see the actual damage. ive had 3 precat failures, and im still on original pistons/rods/etc that now have 270k miles. when i did the rebuild, the piston skirts were a little worn, but definately still useable, so i threw them back in.
I didn't realize the balance shaft decreased reliability. I was under the impression it was necessary. How bad is the vibration after you delete the balancer? (I take this car to and from texas twice a year and it lives at between 3 and 4 thousand RPM during that trip)
I will consider the '08 head gasket, but is it thicker?(will it lower my compression) and will it fit right?
I plan to take the balancer and upper oil pan out and remove the head tonight so i can access the rods & pistons
I will consider the '08 head gasket, but is it thicker?(will it lower my compression) and will it fit right?
I plan to take the balancer and upper oil pan out and remove the head tonight so i can access the rods & pistons
on most cars they are necessary, because not all motors are fully balanced when they are assembled, fortunately, your qr25 is a fully balanced motor, so the amount of vibrations is minimal. really if you dont want your chassis virbating, usually between 3-4krpm only, then you can keep them. im just giving you the heads up, that "IF" they fail, you motor will most likely be ruined complete, and not be rebuildable, and yes thats a big IF, so most people when they are rebuilding, just rip them out, but of course there is a slight torque/horsepower increase, because the crankshaft no longer has to spin these shafts (which are like 2 mini camshafts). also, not only will your oil capacity increase (because you remove the entire assembly from the bottom of the oil pan), but you wont have these shafts spinning in your oil pan frothing up your oil (adding bubbles to the oil), which is also bad. the third benefit is taking the assembly out is decreasing weight, the assembly itself weighs like 20 lbs or more (guessing, ive held them, never weighed them). again, what you do it up to you, just giving you the heads-up, if your rebuilding the motor, its even easier to just cut the chain and never put the assembly back. so you can choose to get a jwt bsr, or you can read travis' how-to on a free bsr (couple dollars). you can read that one here:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific.../16792-qr25de-free-balance-shaft-removal.html
im not sure why youre revving past 3krpm on a long haul...? you do have 6 gears
the vibrations usually start to become noticeable around 3krpm, and go away after 4krpm.
there is no question that the 08 headgasket "AND" 08 headbolts are a much better option, the headgasket itself is the same thickness, but has an extra layer where failures were most common (between/around pistons). and yes its is the same fit, there is only one tiny oil passage that is blocked on the 07+ motors, you can choose to drill the small hole, or leave it blocked (thus improving your oil flow thru the rest of the motor). the 08+ heabolts are just as strong (some say stronger) than the arp headbolts. of course both headgasket and headbolts will come from nissan, so there is exact fitment as the original 02-06 stuff.
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific.../16792-qr25de-free-balance-shaft-removal.html
im not sure why youre revving past 3krpm on a long haul...? you do have 6 gears
the vibrations usually start to become noticeable around 3krpm, and go away after 4krpm.there is no question that the 08 headgasket "AND" 08 headbolts are a much better option, the headgasket itself is the same thickness, but has an extra layer where failures were most common (between/around pistons). and yes its is the same fit, there is only one tiny oil passage that is blocked on the 07+ motors, you can choose to drill the small hole, or leave it blocked (thus improving your oil flow thru the rest of the motor). the 08+ heabolts are just as strong (some say stronger) than the arp headbolts. of course both headgasket and headbolts will come from nissan, so there is exact fitment as the original 02-06 stuff.
yea 6th gear could be longer, if you were pulling the tranny you could swap the final drive with the maxima final, but it would length all your gears, and you might have to lose the lsd, i dont usually mess with tranny internals so im not positive on the specs or requirements. theres a lot of swapping in the tranny internals with some guys using the p12 gears, or other gearsets (shorter), or the turbo/vq guys are opting for the maxima final drive (longer) for better gas mileage.
but you dont really hear/feel the vibrations from the bsr until 75-85ish mph, really it matters how much vibration through the chassis you are willing to deal with. the bsr is nothing like solid motor mounts, its much calmer. if you didnt care about vibration i wouldve recommended solid poly mounts, and the cross member bushings, to get rid of most of the wheel hop, but all these with a bsr your steering wheel/mirrors will be vibrating especially during idling.
but you dont really hear/feel the vibrations from the bsr until 75-85ish mph, really it matters how much vibration through the chassis you are willing to deal with. the bsr is nothing like solid motor mounts, its much calmer. if you didnt care about vibration i wouldve recommended solid poly mounts, and the cross member bushings, to get rid of most of the wheel hop, but all these with a bsr your steering wheel/mirrors will be vibrating especially during idling.
I have almost removed the upper oil pan
but the balance shaft is very hard to take off. There are black bolts with weird heads(not sure what kind of socket they need) I tried a ten millimeter, but it almost stripped out. What did you use?
but the balance shaft is very hard to take off. There are black bolts with weird heads(not sure what kind of socket they need) I tried a ten millimeter, but it almost stripped out. What did you use?
i dont remember the size but it was a reversed/inverted e-torx socket which is different than a regular torx socket, its kind of like a torx bit, just reversed. i did this years ago, but i do remember having to get the e-torx for them over at harbor freight tools (was 40 miles away!), because no one else had them, not the parts stores, not the hardware stores, etc. i know you need an offset 10mm wrench to remove the tensioner, if youre doing a bsr.
if you started stripping the bolt, be sure to get a new one from the dealership, you will need them to be torqued properly to reinstall them, or install the bsr. or maybe bring a new bolt with you to find the correct tool/socket, so you can match it.
make sure your using loctite as well. if youre doing the jwt bsr, you can skip the siliconing part, or use very little of it. really you dont want silicone in your oil.
EDIT: remember, after your bsr, you will need more then 5 quarts of oil, something between 5.25 to 6quarts, so be sure to go by your dipstick!
if you started stripping the bolt, be sure to get a new one from the dealership, you will need them to be torqued properly to reinstall them, or install the bsr. or maybe bring a new bolt with you to find the correct tool/socket, so you can match it.
make sure your using loctite as well. if youre doing the jwt bsr, you can skip the siliconing part, or use very little of it. really you dont want silicone in your oil.
EDIT: remember, after your bsr, you will need more then 5 quarts of oil, something between 5.25 to 6quarts, so be sure to go by your dipstick!
Balance shaft cover is stuck
Ive removed the bolts from the shaft cover and also have removed the bottom sprocket from the chain, but i cant get the balancer shaft cover off, it seems like its too big to remove. I cant find anything online because this is probably a simple step...
Ive removed the bolts from the shaft cover and also have removed the bottom sprocket from the chain, but i cant get the balancer shaft cover off, it seems like its too big to remove. I cant find anything online because this is probably a simple step...
there isnt a cover for the balance shafts, you take out those 4 long etorx(?) bolts and cut the chain and it falls out the bottom oil pan. the balance shaft assembly splits in half.
travis' free bsr:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific.../16792-qr25de-free-balance-shaft-removal.html
jwt bsr instructions:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific...emoval-bsr-kit-installation-instructions.html
travis' free bsr:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific.../16792-qr25de-free-balance-shaft-removal.html
jwt bsr instructions:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific...emoval-bsr-kit-installation-instructions.html
It was just a 12 point 10mm
The number one connecting rod is black (must have gotten hot). I also notice that on three cylinders you can move the rods from side to side.Is this normal?
I'm not sure if this engine will be worth rebuilding or if I should just buy a 07/08 engine from ebay. The price of a used engine will come out to less than the price of aftermarket rods and pistons.
The number one connecting rod is black (must have gotten hot). I also notice that on three cylinders you can move the rods from side to side.Is this normal?
I'm not sure if this engine will be worth rebuilding or if I should just buy a 07/08 engine from ebay. The price of a used engine will come out to less than the price of aftermarket rods and pistons.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENGINE-2009...Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a23870b9&vxp=mtr
Heres an 09 for only 750 shipped, do you know if it will work in my car?
Heres an 09 for only 750 shipped, do you know if it will work in my car?
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
