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I really want to trap that sound in my car but Dynamat seems like a waste of money... does anyone know a good alternative? I remember seeing on some other board about alternative stuff but i dont remember what it is
 

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Intoxicated said:
If you want to still go with Dynamat, check out the UBID.com site, consumer electronics, mobile electronics page and scroll down to accessories. Was able to get tons of the stuff for only $10 or 20 a roll vice the normal 70 to 80 per roll. Even with shipping to Hawaii, I still came out ahead.
 

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What are you matting? I know a LOT of cheap ways that work as well or not better...Always glad to give away secrets to other Nissan owners.

Big W
 

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Well, in the topic of "How do I stop that Rattle" (I think thats what it is...) Someone was asking how to get rid of Trunk lid and panel vibration. Theres really two good ways to do it. Drop about $500 in Dynomat, or about $20 in the way I showed (sorry, feeling lazy today, too long to type again..but its still there.) Glovebox giving you trouble? Go to your local Stereo shop and ask if you can have a strip about 1" wide and as long as you can get. They will usually give it to you since they always have scraps around. simply cut out a small section about 3" long and apply it to the part of the dash that the glovebox lip covers on the side. Way at the bottom, so noone can see. Do it to both sides and keep putting layes on top of one another until the vibration stops. Tired of seeing your Rearview mirror doing the Mamba? Go buy a Big Pink Eraser (patent pending) and cut a nice little wedge out of it..(only do one...its gonna take a couple tries to get the fit right.) And build up underneith the swivel joint where the gap from the plasic case is. Only noticable to a keen eye. or you can do what I did...just buy a black eraser......

Anything else? How to make your front stage move from in the floor to the windshield where its supposed to be? How to get away without any rearfill? Like Tom Cruise said "I am here for you. SHOW ME THE MONEY!!!!"

Big W
 

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check out

check out RAAMAUDIO i am going to purchase about 300 sq feet of it, for my car and use on my friends, it is the same quality thickness as dynamat xtreme, it is used in comp cars, and is 1/4 the price as you know xtreme dynamat is the best that the company makes so you can imagine this stuff is bad *** especially when it comes to price..
 

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All right Big W... you peaked my curiosity.. I have dealt with the issues below and want to hear your take..

"How to make your front stage move from in the floor to the windshield where its supposed to be? How to get away without any rearfill? "

As far as front stage, I found my stage sounded best with my tweets attached to my door, 2-3" from my woofers. But I did notice that it sounded a bit nicer with the tweets in the stock pillar pods. The problem of course being, that ruined the separation, and sounded terrible. I do have tweet attenuation on my crossovers, but it never seemed to be as good as having them right next to each other..

Without any rearfill? I don't have rears. I have had 3 sets in my rear deck, and eventually gave up. They were muddying my sound a bit much, no matter how I crossed them over, even without highs. The standard I have heard is run your fronts down to 60Hz. Which I am doing right now, on a 24dB slope. MY single 10" sub is on a 24dB 83-84Hz low pass. Instead of asking more stuff here, I gotta make a new post to ask about something I been wondering. Interested in any replies tho, as to whether you agree with my thoughts...
 

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well

kick panels! build them! makes life easier IMO, i'm going to build them in my car run my 4 inch along with my tweeter and the 6.75 in door its all about the install which you know and basically said, but also it all depends on the time you put into it, don't rush it...(just some rambling)

also the thing with having your tweeter away from your midrange is, it becomes harder to keep your mid and your highs on the same plane(from what i've seen) more experienced people would say other, i'd just say build yourself a baffle that fits both your mid and your tweeter and go the kick route, that way your assured you mid and high are on the same plane, then you just have to worry about where the sound comes from.
 

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Next weekend I am building fiberglass boxes for my 6.5"s. Bass should be really tight and strong. You could go that route and then you just need the insulation stuff for rattles and road noise.
 

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I pretty much eliminated all rattles in my car (except the sunglass holder, but I've reduced that quite a bit.) Best thing for your trunk - if you look at your trunk lid from the inside you'll see some holes. Get some expanding foam from Home Depot, spray a little in each hole and tape each one off with masking tape right after you spray each one in, otherwise it'll leak out and your trunk becomes all nasty. After you do that and deaden the interior layer of the trunk, put a layer of dynamat (or any of the alternatives) over the rest of it and your trunk lid should stop rattling.

For the rest of my trunk I used rubberized undercoating and sprayed it all over the rest of my trunk (tirewell, etc.). This is relatively inexpensive, but you'll have to keep your trunk empty for a couple of days (all the carpet has to be removed) while it dries, plus it won't smell too nice in your car until it dries completely. I also dynamatted the back of my license plate, and my trunk does not rattle (running three 10").
 

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rubberized undercoating for the trunk works real good. Easy and cheap to do too
 
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