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AutoX Fanatic [#119 STX]
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Discussion Starter #1
Well, we just got done installing the JIC's and are stumped as to why the camber isn't matching up on the front tires. We were able to move it in one notch from zero and lower the car 1.5 inches which translated to -1.3 on the passenger front and only -.6 on the drivers side.

Anyone have any ideas?

Minus the above problem everything else was a breeze. The car handles way better than before. I got the default spring rates 7k-front and 5k-rear and the dampening is at 8 all around.
 

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because you haven't gotten an alignment yet after you installed the parts
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found this in the online version of the sentra manual and I'm not sure how I can get the camber to match on both sides. How did you adjust the camber without adjusting it on the plates.

"Camber, caster and kingpin inclination are preset at factory and
cannot be adjusted."
 

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Klotus said:
I found this in the online version of the sentra manual and I'm not sure how I can get the camber to match on both sides. How did you adjust the camber without adjusting it on the plates.

"Camber, caster and kingpin inclination are preset at factory and
cannot be adjusted."
There's some work that you'd have to do, but as far as I know, ride height is the biggest first factor. I preset the plates to 0 and lowered the car to what I wanted to. Got an alignment done and now I'm at -1.4/-1.5 in the fronts. Make sure you have the ride height adjusted perfectly and have those plates on the 0 mark. ALSO, if you're reading the Sentra manual about camber, of course it will pretty much tell you that it can't be adjusted because we don't have any camber adjustment from the factory. Another thing you want to make sure of when tightening the bottom bolts on each side is how much you actually push the rotor in before tightening those bolts. If you push the rotor till the strut doesn't move and tighten those, you're going to get a bit more negative camber. If one side was pushed in and the other isn't, that could be your problem right there.

Sorry for the long paragraph, let us know if we can help you out more. :)
 

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My car's negative camber got out of normal parameters and couldn't be adjusted as my eibach springs wore in. I was forced to get Ingalls Camber Adjustment Bolts (also known as crash bolts) and it fixed it to perfect. I have not had any problems with the bolts either.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info. I will check to see if I can squeeze more camber by pushing in the rotor and then tightening the lower portion of the strut tonight. I have thought about getting crash bolts but I only want -1.5 for daily street driving plus there isn't really that much time between runs to adjust camber anyway.

I friend of mine did find some useful information about adjusting camber in the rear which I thought was cool.

http://www.overboost.com/obs/produc...n Kits&sc_id=88&sc_name=Camber/Alignment Kits
 

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Well, my good friend and suspension guru Steve Foltz once told me about camber:

"Set it, then forget it."

I agree. Race, if you need to adjust, then adjust it when you're home and taking a break. You'll find out what you want it set at and then forget it. Take the camber plates down another line, push the rotors all the way back and tighten both sides. If you're dropped around 1.5", you should have approx. -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber. Good luck and let us know how it goes! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That did it! We were able to get both sides to register -1.4 degrees of camber.
 

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EVOlving
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Question for you JIC owners: with the camber plates, what is the degree range of adjustability? From what I read, you are getting ~1.5 negative when you are at 0 on the plates? What are the extremes?
 

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Klotus said:
That did it! We were able to get both sides to register -1.4 degrees of camber.
Awesome!! :D

psushoe said:
Question for you JIC owners: with the camber plates, what is the degree range of adjustability? From what I read, you are getting ~1.5 negative when you are at 0 on the plates? What are the extremes?
I have not yet been able to test that out on my end, sorry about that. There must be others around here that have. :)
 

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lowering most cars automatically induces negative camber. So it will vary on ride height. The lower the car, the more negative camber you should be able to get. I know sunburst is running -2.25 front. JIC plates are good up to about -3 to -3.5 if not slightly more. I know I could get that amount from mine (but I drive a civic).
 

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Without modifying the strut top access hole, the only way to adjust a JIC camber plate on the Sentra past 1 or 2 lines either side of zero is to: use a custom made spacer plate on each front and replace the top bolts with longer ones...not a decent option IMHO.

We were able to equalize the front camber employing the "rotor push" method and he has been aligned to : rear combined toe of: 1/8" IN...with a 1/16" in per side. The fronts we set to ZERO TOE...we'll see how Klotus likes it for event later this month.

BriDrive
 

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psushoe said:
Question for you JIC owners: with the camber plates, what is the degree range of adjustability? From what I read, you are getting ~1.5 negative when you are at 0 on the plates? What are the extremes?
its hard to explain, but if you make a mounting gasket that sits between the top of the camber plate and the body of the car, you might get 0.5° more. i think it would be really excessive for street purposes, however. if you're handy with a dremel or have some form of cutting tool, you could very easily enlarge the strut tower holes in the body and be able to utilize the entire camber plate to its fullest.

the drop alone, say 1" to 1½", will give you a negative camber of 1 to 1.5º. that should be more than enough for street purposes and some track time. i think anything over that without modifications to the strut tower holes it would put you in a modified class in Auto-X and most likely you'd use the car for some form of racing and by then, you wouldn't care about tire wear or street ride.
 

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BriDrive said:
Without modifying the strut top access hole, the only way to adjust a JIC camber plate on the Sentra past 1 or 2 lines either side of zero is to: use a custom made spacer plate on each front and replace the top bolts with longer ones...not a decent option IMHO.

We were able to equalize the front camber employing the "rotor push" method and he has been aligned to : rear combined toe of: 1/8" IN...with a 1/16" in per side. The fronts we set to ZERO TOE...we'll see how Klotus likes it for event later this month.

BriDrive
Awesome. Let us know how it handles. :)
 

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Thanks for the answers all! I haven't had a chance to look at the JICs in person yet, but if it doesn't pour on sunday I'm meetin a few guys at Boeing (sunburst included) and should be able to check them out.

I was just thinking that 1 to 1.5° would be ok for the street w/o too much wear, but then I could crank in another degree or so before heading out to an autox. How difficult is it to adjust the camber plates? Do you have to take the load off the coilover and then move it and retighten? Like I said, it will be helpful to see them in person.
 

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The camber plates on your car aren't easy to adjust. I would not suggest changing the settings before a race or often. Unless you plan on being able to set the toe at the same time, I would just leave it. I think you have to take the whole set up out to adjust it, but I could be wrong as I don't have them. I have worked on pditty's and they seem like a pain in the *** to adjust, but ask Dan (sunburst).

But again, you change the camber, you change the toe and the angle of the shock. The best way to do it is to find a compromise between street and autox. Adjust the settings by getting it aligned whenever you need to. Also, try to get it corner balanced. I would not mess with any other settings in the middle of a race until you understand the dampening and such. But that is just me. Take my opinion for what is worth.
 
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