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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm doing the big 3 upgrade and I just want to make sure I'm doing it right before I start cutting wires.

'05 Sentra 1.8s Special Edition

Alternator + (Fused 120a) to Battery +...Is a 120a fuse overkill?


My stock ground is at the bottom of the battery. Negative to stock ground. Stock ground to engine block.


Anything missing or am I good to go?
 

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hey for the engine block you dont have to go to the battery. i chose to go from this bolt on the block to the passenger side strut tower.


look at the arrow.



what you can do is ground the negative battery terminal to the driver's side strut tower.

also from the intake manifold (around the passenger side) to the strut tower.


btw, you need a strut tower bar dawg. buy mine! ha!
 

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1SentraNotEnuff said:
also you can throw one from the transmission to the chassis.
That's where the stocker is grounded, nice and short run if you go to the same spot.

and 120 amp is not overkill, so long as you're using 4awg or larger it's fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finished wiring it today, old pics but this is how i set it up. If i did it wrong let me know.




I did option 2
 

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after almost 3 years of getting made fun of for my small battery i upgraded to this monster. 800 cold cranking amps LOL.




this is my new ground terminal next to the old terminal.



there it is installed.



and here's the battery in place and ready to go. the tie down is too tall for the battery so i have to get a shorter one or modify the one i have now... :eek:


in the pic you can see the direct juice wire i have going to the alternator. Also the HID ballast attached on the sidewall. The red stuff on the negative terminal is terminal sealant/rust preventor. so far, poppa likes.
 

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When most people say the Big Three they usually mean all ground wires. I noticed that you are running a wire from the Pos. side of your battery to the Alt. Is there a reason for this? I guess I have never seen this before. What are the main benefits of this?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Okay, Not quite what I was looking for as an answer but I guess it works.

Also do you have an Ultimate Electronics near you? They sell Pos and Neg battery teminals. They may have what you need. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
my setup is correct...correct? as for the alt to pos battery post...thats what it said to do..so i thought it was part of it.
 

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1SentraNotEnuff said:
it's called "Direct JUICE". We dont know why we do it, we just do.
lawls

yea i also got the magic 3 with the "direct juice". dont ask questions nike:p
 

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Grab some Autozone wingnut terminals. Looks just fine (better than stock) and you can throw as many ring terminals on there as you need.
 

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Can you explain a little further how you ran the positive wire to the alternator? I don't see how I connect it to the alternator. Thanks
 

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Let's see if anyone is still on here😂 02 se-r owner here, first car I've seen with no factory direct wire from alt to battery +. Also, I bought a 1/0 big 3 kit from sky high audio and since the factory ground goes from negative on battery to frame then continues on to the block, I saved 1 of my big 3. I'll probably use it for ground on alternator to ground on battery. I'm putting a 250 amp alternator in instead of the factory 110 amp. Couple questions. 1, did it work ok the way you ran it? I was going to do that exact same route. 2, did you notice that the factory positive on the battery has 1 wire going to the starter and a smaller one going to the fuse box right beside the battery? Will a 250 amp alternator and 1/0 direct to the battery hurt anything?(I'm keeping the factory wires in place obviously) I'm guessing that's why my lights dim with a compact 1,000 watt rms amp......no direct lead from alt to battery. Anyways, just wondering if it worked well. I'm probably adding a second battery too. Already own a brand new one, might as well use it and install everything I have. That'll get rid of the rust😂
 
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