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Discussion Starter #1
As far as I know, this isn’t a question anyone has asked on this forum in the 4 or so years I’ve lurked. I’m curious on what the community thinks though as far as what performance parts could be good options that keep reliability on a naturally aspirated setup while also being transferable to a turbocharged car. I was gonna limit it to engine mods since handling/ suspension stuff seemed obvious but since this forum feels like a ghost town anyway, post whatever mods you think would work with both.
 

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R3g1st3r3d Us3r
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Just came back on here after a LONGGGGGGG hiatus and it's a ghost town. Served me well in the mid 2000's tho lol.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Just came back on here after a LONGGGGGGG hiatus and it's a ghost town. Served me well in the mid 2000's tho lol.
Any suggestions on the mods tho? Also, from what I’ve heard most people moved to B15U. I still get email updates from here so I read posts on occasion but this place is fairly dead.
 

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Theres a short list of them that I'm working on for my 03. between this and the b15U forum I have researched this particular topic a lot because my sentra is my daily and I'm squeezing all the HP and Torque out of it that I can without rebuilding internals or adding turbo.

The first thing to look at for me was exhaust. Im going with a DNA Motoring aftermarket header to delete the catalytic converter on the OEM header and installing an Anti fouler in the lower spot for it on the header to keep any engine codes from showing up.

Now Im limiting the HP I will get because for now its bolting up to stock exhaust, but Ideally you want to upgrade to 2.25 or 2.5 inch exhaust pipe and then replace the muffler and second catalytic converter. (or you could remove that one too but I personally still want to keep my car passing some emissions and as far as I know it isnt hindering performance.) You can either do regular bent exhaust or do a custom mandrel bent exhaust which wont pinch the exhaust in the bends and allow full air flow. Don't go over 2.5 inches (65mm) though because 1- it wont help to and 2- because 2.5 inch pipes are big enough to withstand 400 HP going to them and not give you issue. Getting a proper sized aftermarket or custom exhaust will help gratuitously. I recommend even if you buy a "bolt on" exhaust that you have it welded solid (except for the part where it bolts to the header) so that it cant rattle loose like many seem to have issue with and if you remove the cheap aftermarket muffler and add a resonator It will help with any raspy noises it might give off. That way you have a better tone to the exhaust without it sounding like a hippo farting.. (not judging those who like that, its just not my thing)

The second thing you can do is an upgraded air intake. There are a few options there that I have found. One of them being NISMO brand which is nothing to sneeze at considering they have their own car's best intentions in mind when it comes to performance design. (At least I sure as heck hope they do) A decent one will run about $80-$200 but I recommend making sure the air filter is reusable because given the location it mounts to in order to get cold air, you will want it to be one you can wash out.

Then you have light weight pulleys. These dont add horsepower so much as free up what's already there. There's a company called "2J racing" based out of Georgia that makes light weight crank shaft and power steering pulleys that shave a lot of unnecessary weight off of the originals. They allow faster revving and also rev down quicker allowing better response and fuel economy assuming you just want to drive the car normally.

On a side note, the reviews mention the steering gets a little heavier from this but not anything a little driver adjustment wont fix. I dont personally know how much difference it makes yet because mine are next in line to go on my car.

Lastly, And this is more torque than HP, Energy Suspension makes some motor mount inserts that go over the OEM mounts on the lower part of the engine. Even your brand new factory lower motor mounts have gratuitous play in them. This means when the engine is under heavy load, its torque is getting lost before it ever gets to your axles. These motor mounts stiffen things up and allow the engine to have play but not as much. This way the torque from the motor is going to the wheels like it was always meant to do.

-The exhaust (unless you know a good welder who will do you a favor) will run you about $300-$400 if you go with a shop and probably about $300 if you just get bolt on parts and leave them be.
-The light weight pulleys are $100 for the crankshaft pulley and $60 I believe for the power steering pulley (note that if you get both, it will require a longer belt than the original one) but they will sell that too you as well so you get all of them for $160
-The intake is about $80-$200
-The motor mounts are $40

To the best of my knowledge, none of these mods will require any programming of your ECU but again that's as far as I know so I wont state that part as a fact.
 

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Oh.. a note about exhaust - The aftermarket exhausts dont allow for the OEM heat shield to be put back on the car. so I recommend either heat wrapping the exhaust header or looking into a way to mount the original heat shield and or go custom. There's a company I think that makes them called SC Concepts that makes one for your alternator for $60 if you want one pre made. I suggest looking into one of these options because too much heat building up in the engine bay will be the death of your alternator.
 

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Definitely replace the pulley. I recommend balance shaft removal kit if you can find one... clutch and flywheel are great turbo or not. Short shifter, 4-point lower bar, brake lines. I would say start from there. I agree with eokang. You probably don't want 2.5" down pipes unless you have turbo. I have 2.25" and I felt I lost some low end torque even with my mod, but it did improved the issue with wheel hop. I got heddman header. Lasted me over 14 years.
 
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