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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


Unplug the two harnesses, cut the elctrical tape, and peel it back

Cut the wires on the smaller harness 3" behind the harness and seperate the wiring (You will notice the - and + of each speaker are taped together allready.

Cut the wires on the remaining harness and seperate them, strip the wires.

The 2 white wires with red lines and 2 black wires are the + and - for the amp, you will not need to strip these, simply cap them along with the pink wire (amp remote).

Connect the wires and cap them accoring to this tabe...

Connect wires from the B52 Harness to the B51 Harness
B52= Smaller Harness
B51= Larger Harness

Front Left
+ Red ---> Purple
- Purple w/ Red Line ---> Green w/Yellow Line
Front Right
+ Green ---> Brown
- Red w/ Blue Line ---> Brown w/ White Line
Rear Left
+ Orange ---> Yellow w/ Green Line
- Orange w/ Blue Line ---> White w/ Orange Line
Rear Right
+ Orange w/ Red Line ---> Red w/ Black Line
- Green w/ Blue Line ---> Gray w/ Blue Line

If you don't have an easy stripper wire stripper, it will be the best $2 you ever spent. The bypass was very easy, just match up the wires and secure them in a wire nut. I removed the factory amp (every pound counts :D). The sound quality is MUCH better from the aftermarket HU after bypassing the amp.

And a special thank you to angel2167882 (Laurent) for her audio expertise input.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
placenta- correct, the sound quality is 10x better with the amp bypassed.

sentrase00- Solder is such a pain in the @$$ to use, I have never run into any connectivity issues with wire nuts on any previous audio installations.

2003specv- Wire Nut® is a brand name, I have never heard them called marettes before.
 

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Just go straight out and by and amp for your speakers..then you don't need to worry about all this. Just run speaker wire straight from your trunk! :D
 

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(huh? is this post on thevboard.com or here originally?)

Anyways - posting the same question I placed over there:

What happened to the sub here - is it pulling off its signal from the rear speakers?

This effectively just makes the AMP useless, right? Now here's a n00b question: is the HU amp (I have a JVC KDSX980 installed) really that much better than the R/F AF Amp that its worth bypassing, as opposed to say using RCAs to wire the HU to the amp I already have?

Thanks!
 

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AEM : Im just screwing around... no pun intended ;) lol but in my electronics class they stressed this so much they put us on a mission to destroy all wire nuts. Just get soldering heatshrink. All u need is a hairdryer!
Matt
 

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I was thinking, tap both the fronts and backs to the front leads
and subs to the rear leads.... (7500mp deck has sub control)
will this be too much load on the HU amp?
 

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03v-2 said:
I was thinking, tap both the fronts and backs to the front leads
and subs to the rear leads.... (7500mp deck has sub control)
will this be too much load on the HU amp?
That will drop the impedence on the front channels to 2ohm

2ohm on a headunit = death
 

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87SENTRASE said:
Oh, sorry, thanks. I cannot remove my deck. Thanks for the info. I just want to replace my speakers but I think nobody makes spacers for the front speakers yet?
1. People here on the forum make spacers for the front speaker. Do a search for "mdf AND spacer" either in the audio section or in the classifieds section.

2. I have no experience in using wirenuts, but I'd never use them unless I was forced to do so. And I'll never be forced to use them on stranded wire. As for a solid core wire.... I'd try to get a pair of 'U' clamps and bolt them together, but I wouldn't put wire nuts completely out of the question for that IF they would be guaranteed to not be moved/vibrated.
 

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2001 SE #2 said:
That will drop the impedence on the front channels to 2ohm

2ohm on a headunit = death
How about tapping both fronts and rears to the front output (deck) though series as opposed to parallel.
This'll up it to 8ohms, which should be ok right?

I just finished doing this, seems to sound ok!
I've got single 10inch hooked up to one of the rear leads as a sub. (I am assuming it will detect it as a sub and drop it down to 2ohms?)


Tech specs from manual:

Maximum power output ..... 50 W × 4
for subwoofer (70 W × 1 ch/2 Ω )
Load impedance ................. 4 Ω (4 – 8 Ω [2 Ω for 1 ch]
allowable)
 

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Wiring at 8ohm on a headunit would be horrible. Not that it would be bad for the headunit, just that each speaker would get about 3-4 watts before the headunit started clipping.

And the headunit can't detect that something is a sub and "drop it down to 2ohm", it doesn't work like that. The headunit puts out a voltage, the speaker attached to the headunit has a certain resistance, and depending on that resistance, a certain amount of current flows. The speaker decides the resistance, because it IS the resistance, the headunit/amp has no say in the matter.
 
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