[ssconceptz]

Just bought this 2003 Sentra SER Spec-V and it had an issue with the TB and the guy went to the dealer and had both the ECM, TB w/ Sensor replaced. The issue is it was misfiring and then you would get the code P2135. This did not really effect the way it drives but at random times it would not accelerate and would feel like a car that was running out of gas. Therefore the only way to get around it is to kill the car, start it back up, and then drive. I went to start my car this morning and as soon as I try to take off, the car feels like it was out of gas. I had plenty of gas btw. I parked it back in my garage and popped the hood. I started the car and let it idle, I started messing with the TPS sensor connector on the throttle body and when I press on it the idle gets higher, then I pressed it a few more times, finally it stumbled and died. I went ahead and replaced that connector and I no longer get any issues with wiggling the connector. The car seems to do this most of the time but then there are times that it runs just fine.


These are the codes it had:

Codes -
P2135 : TP Sensor Performance Condition (TP & Sensor are brand new)
P0300 : Random Cylinder Misfire
P0301 : Cylinder 1 Misfire

New Codes: (after new plugs)
P2135 : Same
P0302 : Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0123 : TP Sensor High Voltage

The car is still stumbling and not running well, I have a fuel pump that's going in this weekend so hoping that fixes this. The TP sensor code went away after changing the plugs but I do not think it was related. Then when I cranked it up this morning and it wouldn't go, the light came back on.

There are times when I am driving and it suddenly starts misfiring the whole time at idle and during driving. As soon as I hit the gas the car stumbles like crazy. I drove it for a few miles and eventually the misfire went away and the car drove great. Seems like this could be fuel related?

8-2-2012 : So fired it up after I got home, idle was a bit high probably because when I try the idle learn it never works. Anyhow I let it idle and it was missing slightly. I unplugged each coil one at a time and reconnected them. They are all good. I unplugged the MAF and it stumbled. I did notice that the car has some ghetto red large amp wire for ground wires. One goes from the driver fender (where the battery negative hits) to the TB, then another from the TB to the timing belt cover area, then I think another one from there to somewhere else. I think the car started running pretty bad when I touched the ground wire on top of the TB so wondering if this wiring is shot. It's red but black near where it connects so it may be corroded. I may go buy a few ground straps or some pretty thick wire to replace it. Any recommendations?

8-6-12: Well the good news is I have a larger (stock) throttle body and no TB codes anymore. Bad part is it just started missing again. This must be unrelated to the TB codes. There is no engine code but I know this has to be a random misfire. Other than that I previously had cylinder 1 or 2 misfire codes. I am starting to think this could be fuel related but I am not exactly sure. My cam/crank sensor are confirmed plastic not the revised metal but the dealer stated the recall was done but I don't see how.

Video of how it sounds now...............
Please watch this vid to see how it sounds now, maybe someone can help:
2003 Sentra SER Misfiring like crazy. - YouTube


I have kinda narrowed this down to either being:

Fuel (Injectors or Pump)
TB (which is NEW)
ECU (which is also NEW)

I am hoping it is the fuel pump so I will replace that soon. I ran some lucas through it when I bought it but maybe I need to run some SeaFoam through the tank? The bad gro

Thanks,
Mike

 

[06se-r]

Definitely replace the ghetto wiring, . I would try a ground wire kit or like you said some straps. If that doesn't help the issue, have you checked your fuel pressure?


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[ssconceptz]

Yea the ground wiring is weird. Going through images of other 2.5's I don't see the same ground wire locations exactly but I did see a yellow car with the same type of ground wires which were yellow. Maybe this is a ground wire kit that is just crap now? Not sure.....

Have not checked the fuel pressure, I do not have a fuel pressure gauge.

 

[ssconceptz]

I guess it turns out that I already have a grounding kit (the red wires) but they just seem old to me. This is merely aftermarket and wouldn't cause my car to run like this.

 

[06se-r]

Yeah I have personally never heard of a ground going directly to the tb. As for fuel pressure, if you have a harbor freight nearby you could probably pick up a gauge for cheap. But one step at a time. Lol


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[ssconceptz]

Maybe I will just get a video, that would probably be helpful. Maybe Autozone could rent me one.

 

[ssconceptz]

Finally got the 3 relearns to stick and my engine light is still on but the idle is back to normal. I can still hear it missing slightly. It must be running a bit rich because the spark plug smelled like gas. I am curious if any of the butterflies were to fall off the secondary part of the intake, would they get stuck or would they just block the flow of air to the cylinder? I would assume they are too large to get into the cylinder.

Checking those things this weekend.

 

[i68k]

Finally got the 3 relearns to stick and my engine light is still on but the idle is back to normal. I can still hear it missing slightly. It must be running a bit rich because the spark plug smelled like gas. I am curious if any of the butterflies were to fall off the secondary part of the intake, would they get stuck or would they just block the flow of air to the cylinder? I would assume they are too large to get into the cylinder.
Checking those things this weekend.

if you did the relearns successfully, go back and pull your new codes. you should have something different going on there. if you have the same codes, just clear them and wait for the to come back, you can do the pedal dance now

as for the butterfly screws, if they fall out, they can travel thru the motor and have occasionally get spit out the exhaust. anytime a screw enters the motor will be mechanical damage internally to the motor, how severe depends on how long the screw is bouncing around, but it doesnt take long.

 

[ssconceptz]

if you did the relearns successfully, go back and pull your new codes. you should have something different going on there. if you have the same codes, just clear them and wait for the to come back, you can do the pedal dance now

as for the butterfly screws, if they fall out, they can travel thru the motor and have occasionally get spit out the exhaust. anytime a screw enters the motor will be mechanical damage internally to the motor, how severe depends on how long the screw is bouncing around, but it doesnt take long.

Yea I understand that part, I was referring to the actual butterflies themselves. I did the relearn, what is the pedal dance? I know what the 3 relearns are but don't know if that refers to the pedal dance or not. I think my codes come back immediately.... not sure. The light never stayed off very long.

BTW did pull my cam/crank sensor and they are the old plastic ones. I wonder if they could have an ill effect without throwing a code. I heard it was found the crank sensor could cut out at times and the recall was to reprogram the ecu to use either sensor to start the car. Is the crank sensor also used for the timing on these cars or just for starting? I know the cam sensor is used for timing for sure. I may replace these to be safe.

I have a feeling my codes are the same. The dealership replaced the TB with $700+ dealer part a few months ago which I would think by default should care a minimum of 1 year warranty. Going to call them and see if I bring the receipt for the TB install if they would test and replace the TB for free. It just seems like it's possibly they put on a bad new part.......

 

[i68k]

the pedal dance is not idle relearn, although they are similar.

idle relearn-after lights blinking you start the motor to do idle relearn
pedal dance-after lights blink, you hold pedal for 10sec? to clear that code that is blinking. the pedal dance is how you pull your codes without a scanner. the numbers of blinks can be recorded, so like a p0301, the ses light will blink 10x long, then 3x fast, then 10x long, then 1x fast. there are long blinks (tens digit) and fast blinks (ones digit).

 

[ssconceptz]

Well on the idle relearn it says to hold the pedal down until it stops blinking and then start the car. This would be the same as doing the pedal dance because the codes would blink during this time anyhow. Your saying the idle relearn would be starting the car as soon as it blinks but the documentation on how to says otherwise. A bit consusing. But anyhow I did hold it 10 seconds I am sure after they blinked unless you mean after they blink and the light is steady hold the pedal for 10 seconds to clear codes?

When I start the car it shows no light for a fraction of a second then it comes back on. I've unplugged my battery and that doesn't get rid of the codes either, they come back immediately.

Now with my cam/crank sensor being plastic but not throwing codes, should I replace them?

 

[ssconceptz]

Here is a video to show how it sounds, the idle, and what I think is injector ticking unless someone else can tell me what that ticking is. I called and the TB was replaced exactly a year ago and I am picking up a new one today after work for testing purposes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn1tq2TppMY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[ssconceptz]

Yea replaced it all.

Good news so far is I got a new TB today and the TB that was on the car was about 1/2 the diameter of what the new one is. This leads me to believe that Nissan put on a 1.8 Drive by Wire TB because my engine had to have been choking. Did the relearns and the dance and the light went away. I am hoping it doesn't come back but well see.


Here are pictures, the one that is larger is the replacement, the one that is smaller was on the car and is incorrect.

*couldn't attach so here is a link post #38 to pictures*
http://www.b15u.com/b15-sentra-2000-2006/30138-ser-p2135-tb-tps-issue-help-2.html

 

[06se-r]

Good deal man!! Glad it all worked out!!


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[i68k]

youre right, that does look like a 1.8 tb. hopefully that was giving you those performance codes. you should replace you cam&crank sensors if theyve never been changed, try to find the metal sleeved sensors. once you change them, you can do another idle relearn.

does it feel like you have more torque now

 

[ssconceptz]

Well the good news is I have a larger (stock) throttle body and no TB codes anymore. Bad part is it just started missing again. This must be unrelated to the TB codes. There is no engine code but I know this has to be a random misfire. Other than that I previously had cylinder 1 or 2 misfire codes. I am starting to think this could be fuel related but I am not exactly sure. My cam/crank sensor are confirmed plastic not the revised metal but the dealer stated the recall was done but I don't see how.

Video of how it sounds now...............
Please watch this vid to see how it sounds now, maybe someone can help:
http://youtu.be/8VdUWLFLub0

 

[i68k]

you should update to metal sleeved cam and crank sensors just to be sure.

if does seem like a misfire, run thru your ignition, if your coils are old, start with the unplug trick and then swap them for the confirmation. then check your sparks and work from there. it does seem like its a normal misfire, usually spark plug or coil are most common for a general misfire.

 

[ssconceptz]

The thing is I just replaced the plugs with expensive platinum plugs and the coils are all firing because I unplugged each one during idle and each one effected the way the car runs. I do have an extra set of 4 coils and I will swap them all just to be sure but If it was down to a particular cylinder I would expect a P030x code. I cleaned the MAF too just to be sure. This happened even after the new plugs.

 

[ssconceptz]

Swapped out all 4 coils, running smooth, going to take a long drive and see how long this holds.

 

[i68k]

did you changed your crank&cam sensors yet? your timing could be off. also check your vin with a dealership, make sure you got the ecu reprogramming.