So here is my scenario with a 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.8L with 194600 miles...
Problem initially started after driving from Los Angeles to CA/OR border, the car started losing acceleration and check engine light began flashing. I cleaned the spark plugs and was able to get it started after 5 min of starting attempts. Check engine gave cylinder 1 misfire code. I put in a new ignition coil pack for cylinder 1. I cleared the codes and then was able to coax the car to a spot I could leave a few days.
After bringing it home, the check engine light will flash with either a cylinder 4 misfire (P0304) or multiple cylinder misfire (P0300) whenever I drive it. I swapped the ignition coil packs between cylinder 1 and cylinder 4 and replaced all spark plugs with brand new ones. Still had starting issues (numerous attempts) and car would turn off if you let foot off gas pedal. I replaced both camshaft (intake/exhaust) sensors and the crankshaft sensor. Now, after many attempts of trying to start vehicle it will idle at 1200 rpm when cold but once it warms up, drops to 800rpm and then engine will eventually turn off. I would then have to repeat trying to start the car.
I put cylinder 1 at TDC suspecting timing chain had jumped but it appears to have correct alignment. Timing marks appear to line up. I forgot to check cam bearings for looseness and to see if anything else was broken/loose when I had rocker cover off. I also tried starting car with MAF sensor disconnected but it sounds the same. Weather has been around 30 degrees so I can't tell if I get white smoke from exhaust.
When driving car, the engine sounds rough and has knocking noises when accelerating. I thought about replacing the IVT timing control solenoid valve but I pulled it out and put 12v and can see the plunger move but the mesh screen was caked with oil grime. I cleaned the outside of it but not sure if soaking it in gas will help clear the grime inside the mesh or ruin the solenoid altogether. Not sure if it's worth buying this part as it may not fix the problem and be better to replace the engine. The error codes continue to show either P0304 or P0300 every time I drive it. I have to keep the engine revving at all times to prevent it from turning off and being stuck at a stop sign trying to start it for the next 5-10 mins.
I bought my own compression tester and got the following - cyl1: 150psi, cyl2: 70psi, cyl3:30psi, cyl4:45psi. Based on the check engine codes, I was wondering if the intake manifold gasket needs replacing along with the fuel injectors? The parts of intake gasket you can see exposed, flakes off very easily. I hesitate doing that due to the knocking noises. Note, spark plugs have always been fouled with white/brown discoloration as I know bad engine design led to incorrect head gasket sealing and slow coolant leak. Also, fuel pump was replaced 2.5 years ago. What other tests can I try to determine if it's the head gasket, broken valves, or intake manifold gasket? Electric Load Switch OFF i.e Air Condition, headlamps , rear defogger.
Problem initially started after driving from Los Angeles to CA/OR border, the car started losing acceleration and check engine light began flashing. I cleaned the spark plugs and was able to get it started after 5 min of starting attempts. Check engine gave cylinder 1 misfire code. I put in a new ignition coil pack for cylinder 1. I cleared the codes and then was able to coax the car to a spot I could leave a few days.
After bringing it home, the check engine light will flash with either a cylinder 4 misfire (P0304) or multiple cylinder misfire (P0300) whenever I drive it. I swapped the ignition coil packs between cylinder 1 and cylinder 4 and replaced all spark plugs with brand new ones. Still had starting issues (numerous attempts) and car would turn off if you let foot off gas pedal. I replaced both camshaft (intake/exhaust) sensors and the crankshaft sensor. Now, after many attempts of trying to start vehicle it will idle at 1200 rpm when cold but once it warms up, drops to 800rpm and then engine will eventually turn off. I would then have to repeat trying to start the car.
I put cylinder 1 at TDC suspecting timing chain had jumped but it appears to have correct alignment. Timing marks appear to line up. I forgot to check cam bearings for looseness and to see if anything else was broken/loose when I had rocker cover off. I also tried starting car with MAF sensor disconnected but it sounds the same. Weather has been around 30 degrees so I can't tell if I get white smoke from exhaust.
When driving car, the engine sounds rough and has knocking noises when accelerating. I thought about replacing the IVT timing control solenoid valve but I pulled it out and put 12v and can see the plunger move but the mesh screen was caked with oil grime. I cleaned the outside of it but not sure if soaking it in gas will help clear the grime inside the mesh or ruin the solenoid altogether. Not sure if it's worth buying this part as it may not fix the problem and be better to replace the engine. The error codes continue to show either P0304 or P0300 every time I drive it. I have to keep the engine revving at all times to prevent it from turning off and being stuck at a stop sign trying to start it for the next 5-10 mins.
I bought my own compression tester and got the following - cyl1: 150psi, cyl2: 70psi, cyl3:30psi, cyl4:45psi. Based on the check engine codes, I was wondering if the intake manifold gasket needs replacing along with the fuel injectors? The parts of intake gasket you can see exposed, flakes off very easily. I hesitate doing that due to the knocking noises. Note, spark plugs have always been fouled with white/brown discoloration as I know bad engine design led to incorrect head gasket sealing and slow coolant leak. Also, fuel pump was replaced 2.5 years ago. What other tests can I try to determine if it's the head gasket, broken valves, or intake manifold gasket? Electric Load Switch OFF i.e Air Condition, headlamps , rear defogger.
