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how about the fuel pump relay? If that is a little dinged up or gone bad, it could relate to your problem...i pulled out my fuel pump, whoa! too much plastic for a fuel pump inside it.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
found it!!

Its not a matter of the fuel pump thing, its the ECM (Electronic Computer Module) that caused the starting problem of my 1.8s sentra 2006. They changed it with another one of the same year on the lot and since then, (2 weeks ago now) I never had the same problem again! So they gonna get a bran new one for my car and return the other one to the other car where it belong. They said it cost around 950$ but since that i'm allways on the warranty, I don't have to spend anything!! ;)

So after they changed:

1- Fuel repair kit pump
2- Fuel pressure Sensor
3- ignition switch

(Note: every of these changes doesn't resolve the problem, it was still there)

it was finally the ecm that cause that trouble. I'm glad they resolve it and most gladly to you peoples who have a b15 sentra and will not have to search again to know where that problem is still comming from!

Have a great day guys!

Note: I know it's a bit costly but its up to you and a really hope that every one who still have that problem still have a warranty :confused:
 

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Whether the problem has been suspected as fuel pump, leaking injector, leaking head gasket... this process has worked for me and has minimized the start/stall or start/stumble problems:

  • Turn the key on, wait until the chime stops sounding.
  • Floor the gas pedal as if to start a flooded engine.
  • Turn the key to the Start position and hold it there until the oil pressure light is no longer lit.
  • Let the gas pedal up while still holding the key in the Start position the engine should start without stalling or stumbling.
SOOOO glad I found this site! Right before Christmas my 2005 Sentra 1.8 S started having starting issues. I would have to try to crank it for several minutes before it would actually start. Finally I ended up running down the battery from trying to start it so much. After 3 weeks of not driving it, it miraculously started! I drove it to the mechanic's and he took a look at it. He said the thermostat needed to be replaced. He said since the thermostat wasnt working, the sensor wasnt picking up the fact that the engine was over heating and shutting down. So I got that fixed, thinking that was the solution to my problem. NOT! Next day, still would not start. Finally I got it to start, brought it back over to the mechanic's and left it. He was able to get it to start every single time! Got it home, then next morning, NOTHING! AGAIN! Once again I ran the battery down from trying to start it, since I had several people tell me that it sounded like it wasnt getting fuel. So after purchasing a charger, I decided to do some research on the problem, and ran into this site. I installed the battery back in the car this morning and primed the fuel pump. Low and behold, IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!!! Thank you everyone for posting this site! My job was literally in jeopardy here lately. I had been riding with a co-worker that has totally different hours than I had, I was missing work and my production was down :( But now it works like a charm! :D:D:D:D:D:D
 

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I dont remember if i shared this on B15sentra.net yet, but ive been dealing with the "extended crank, no start condition" issue since i purchased my car in 2007 and the car still always starts on the second try till this day..... dealer did not take the time to duplicate the issue and never came up with a diagnosis...... but i come home from work to eat lunch every day (about 5 miles) i turn the car off for about 25 minutes.... and when i go to return to work it almost ALWAYS does the extended crank, no start condition.... i decided to duplicate the issue myself twice... the first time i checked fuel pressure at the rail and it was normal.... the second time i checked injector pulse using a noid light on the injector harness and found there was no injector pulse when trying to start the car!!!! injectors are controlled by the ECU and since the car has never left me stranded i havent bothered looking any further into it..... I dont doubt the faulty fuel pump diagnosis at all... just sharing what ive found.
 

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SOOOO glad I found this site! Right before Christmas my 2005 Sentra 1.8 S started having starting issues. I would have to try to crank it for several minutes before it would actually start. Finally I ended up running down the battery from trying to start it so much. After 3 weeks of not driving it, it miraculously started! I drove it to the mechanic's and he took a look at it. He said the thermostat needed to be replaced. He said since the thermostat wasnt working, the sensor wasnt picking up the fact that the engine was over heating and shutting down. So I got that fixed, thinking that was the solution to my problem. NOT! Next day, still would not start. Finally I got it to start, brought it back over to the mechanic's and left it. He was able to get it to start every single time! Got it home, then next morning, NOTHING! AGAIN! Once again I ran the battery down from trying to start it, since I had several people tell me that it sounded like it wasnt getting fuel. So after purchasing a charger, I decided to do some research on the problem, and ran into this site. I installed the battery back in the car this morning and primed the fuel pump. Low and behold, IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!!! Thank you everyone for posting this site! My job was literally in jeopardy here lately. I had been riding with a co-worker that has totally different hours than I had, I was missing work and my production was down :( But now it works like a charm! :D:D:D:D:D:D

How do you prime the fuel pump? I still have problems starting even when I wait 4 dings and hold gas petal down. Everything on this thread besides ECW change still making my 03 Sentra having startup issues.
 

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to prime you turn the key to ignition- wait a few seconds until you don't hear the pump going, then start it. do not hodl down the pedal. it is detrimental on a fuel injected engine. when starting, don't even touch the gas pedal. that's a carryover from the old carbureted engine days-
 

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priming your fuel is something like this:
1-put keyON, wait for dinging to stop
2-put keySTART for 2-3 seconds, listen for fuel pump buzzing
3-while keySTART, press the clutch pedal to start the motor

there is no need to press the accel pedal when starting. also if you have any ses codes, they would be greatly appreciated ;)
 

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hmm im having the same issue on my 02. im guessing he hasnt had that problem since he has posted. a used ECM is going for 200. i just want to make sure this is causing the problem
 

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priming your fuel is something like this:
1-put keyON, wait for dinging to stop
2-put keySTART for 2-3 seconds, listen for fuel pump buzzing
3-while keySTART, press the clutch pedal to start the motor

there is no need to press the accel pedal when starting. also if you have any ses codes, they would be greatly appreciated ;)
I will try that. Thanks. Check back for my response.

hmm im having the same issue on my 02. im guessing he hasnt had that problem since he has posted. a used ECM is going for 200. i just want to make sure this is causing the problem
I'm hoping that's the fix too.

Also, for my 1.8, what is the strongest motor can I swap out that would bolt right in place and use existing transmission? It's a manual.
 

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still question the TSB

Last year when I had this problem I purchased a used (28K) fuel pump and it worked fine until recently (it now has 51K) on it. Priming is not always working at this point. Also it seems to happen when the car, not the engine, is hot like in the summer.
So I believe that the problem is the sending unit and this time I will buy a new one but one thing still bothers me. If the fuel leaks back down into the tank then why does it work fine in the morning or when it has been sitting for a long time. Seems like it should still have the cranking problem like it does when it is hot.
 

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I had this problem. I've had my fuel pump replaced 3 times under warranty, lasting about 8k miles each time. Each replacement has a year warranty and now I'm out of that, but it has not failed yet.
 

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i have been following this problem forever (it seems). since my 02 started acting up w/the long crank/no start condition, right around 80,000 miles. i went thru the walbro process, AND IT WORKED, for 6 months to the day. so, i bench tested the old (stock) pump, and it worked, too. (i suspected it was only working "sometimes" at the start of this nightmare). now, i have the stock pump BACK in the car. when i turn the key, i can hear it PUMPING. here's the funny part-there is NO FUEL PRESSURE, and not even a dribble of gas coming from the fuel line !! i guess my next step is put in a check-valve,,,can someone who has done this provide a little guidance ?? do i need a certain type ??(due to gas, and maybe, pressure)?? is this an autozone/advance/o'reilly part ?? if you could direct me to some help, it would be much appreciated !!
 

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so my question is that if the fuel leaks back into the tank why does it start fine in the morning
It's my understanding that it's because it didn't experience a warmer state than it was left in when the engine was last cut.
Meaning, if you park it in the evening. Warm engine, rapidly cooling surrounding weather and engine, the pressure doesn't build in the lines, forcing the fuel back out.

And the reverse on hot days. You park your car in the sun, environmental temps rise, and force it to unprime.

So for my car, a colder day that when I let it will result in it starting fine, and a warmer one, (or at least a changeable one), will mean a rocky start.. Most of the time.
 
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