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I just picked up a 06 B15, real cheap and for good reason unfortunately; is at the moment, a real beater. Cosmetic aside, the vehicle wont rev above 2k. Have just used a Oriellys scan tool, hopefully will try a new one tomorrow; but point is, OBD couldn't identify the car 1, 2. once finally identified from a list, 3. said every sensor in the vehicle was bad. Surely this cant be correct. So I put money on MAF(looks old and has original air box), CAT and CAT sensors, and or is the very new looking throttle body (possibly hasn't been re calibrated, if taken off, which it seems like. Simply too clean and is noticeably different. I either cant follow directions or throttle body wont be flashed by the complex combo of car on and off and stomping the gas 5 times and wait....no response) Anyway, this is more to reach out to the great minds of the internet. Does all that sound about right? I will check this regularly for obvious reasons, so if you can bring some good tips, tricks, and questions my way. That would be awesome. Service light is on. I tinkered with it for a bit and I noticed that when force-ably opening the intake gate, it wanted to make more power but was still limited by lack of fuel, i assume, due to the MAF not reading correctly, not sending the necessary fuel to make power. I have done this method to my personal vehicle and it revs as if its legitimate pedal response, so I scratch my head. Engine still starts with sensor off, runs like it did. I have cleaned the MAF with appropriate cleaner, needed a new battery, more oil, as well as plenty of cosmetics. This is a bit of an extra read but might be pertinent still. I dont know. This is day 1 of owning car so bear with me. It had a ecm in the floor board when we bought it but had one in it already. Maybe why Oriellys couldn't read it; because you replace that, you have to tune it to the car. Correct? The cars also have ecm updates or recalls if im not mistaken. This car doesn't seem to have ever had and update or recall done....period. Real shame for a spec v. The picture is of the ecm plug up currently. The other is a 3Q but will have to get specific number from below if needed. I plugged it in but the car did not start at all, so other which looks older, goes back in. Google says 3Q is for the 1.8l but I cant find a 1000% answer on what a 5L is. I dont want to see it leave us but if its too costly, it's another one of those sad stories. Ill take pictures tomorrow. We are going to figure it out, whatever it takes, just may not be fixed. Yall know the deallio. If yall can help, solidify, or disprove my thoughts so far, please reach out.
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Have someone press the gas pedal while you watch the throttle body open. It sounds like a bad connection to the throttle body. Also the computer for a 05 ser spec v is a gt mec63-451 a1 not sure if it’s the same for a 06
 

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Funny thing is, it's a 02. Which checked out with the ecu. Confusion from the get go. Ugh. Thanks, I did actually come to that conclusion myself but I find the problem more is the connect to the connector for the coolant temp sensor. Both wires are faulty and now one is off completely. Just attached the broken wire to the other to show it's hot so the radiator fan will run rather than not. Now I'm trying to figure out if I can fix that because that is a pretty big problem and it runs like crap even more with that sensor undone. Will try soldering it some but other than I'm at a loss. Pigtail anyone? It's hard to find.
 

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Couldn't find a pig tail but the cool thing about the plug ins, is that they can be taken apart. So I did that to fix the bases. Fixed the middle connections and put it back in. Same issue. Now I'm looking into the pedal. When I clear the codes, it will idle surge up and down as normal but will allow me to occasionally have some but not all pedal control. In other words, will slowly accelerate most times but sometimes quickly (how it should run). Damn teaser. Some peeps have bad wiring in general. Mines is very brittle after doing work on those tails. I may look again at the wiring situation but it has to be beyond what I can see at this point. P2138 is a constant codes. THROTTLE PEDAL. When it's not throwing the other 8-12 but it's known to do that. I came from Nissan the other day and they said oh I've never heard of that problem. Lol, y'all funny.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just wow. The ground wire for the Power steering relay is out of the car so the ECM doesn't know where the steering wheel is at, so I can't do a relearn. Keeping it in limp mode. Since I had just picked this up, I unfortunately got one some cheap dummy was messing with. FML. Don't trust dealerships. Nissan wanted me to buy a whole ECM but before I replaced that switch. The throttle body been replaced, pedal-replaced, wires-redone, and wrong ECU replacement. Holy crap to the previous owners... I wanna kick y'all in the head. Y'all fuckers need bikes. Not a spec v....****. it's getting close though. An alligator clip from that relay ground to the chassis allows me 4k in rpms but not much more, so we are getting there. Just a get around for right now.
 

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It sounds like it can be an ecu problem. It definitely is in limp mode. Ask 2jr for a ecu
 
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