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Currently I Own A 98 Nissan Altima I Was Looking At This 03 Spec V It Was Only $13000 W/ 10000 Mi On It Is This A Good Deal???? And What Is The Fastest All Motor Time??? Also My Friend Was Saying Something Like There Is A Mod That You Can Do To Leave You Valves Open For Vvt

Let Me Know
Thanks
 

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depends on the condition of the car i guess.
try imputting the proper info here and see what comes up
http://autos.yahoo.com/kbb/one.html?buy

i got my 04 spec v brand new for $16k (before tax and tags) ... so in my opinion i would rather spend the the 3k more and get it brand new.
weigh your options
 

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Oh jeez. he's probably talking about the CVTC which is always changing. Or he is talking about having the second intake runners always opens which only kills low end torque. But the Spec elites will soon prolly see this thread and explain more
 

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Foolishly Impractical
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DK ALTI said:
so someone tell me what that is all about
The intake manifold on the QR25DE (thats the engine in the Spec) has 2 sets of runners (the pathway that air follows to the cylinders). The first one follows a longer path, and the second one is a more direct route to the cylinders. The longer path allows for greater performance in the lower RPM range, while the second shorter ones allow for better performance in the upper RPM range. The second shorter runners are closed off until ~5000 RPM by a set of butterfly valves (similar to the ones you see in top mounted blowers on drag cars, or the plate you see in a throttle body). At ~5000 RPM these valves open allowing more air into the engine.

Alot of people have thought that opening these second runners sooner, or leaving them open would boost performance, but it has been proven to NOT give more power in the lower RPM's.. acutally you will lose performance by doing so (unless you are turbocharged).

The valve timing on the QR25DE is called a CVTC system.. and the CV means it is Constantly Variable.. so there is no way to controll it, or make it switch. It is not the same as Honda's VTEC which has basically 2 settings and can be made to switch on sooner.

Basically messing with either of these systems is a lost cause, it was done pretty well from the factory.. you will find you performance gains in other areas to be far greater than anything you could extract from these two systems.
 

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I went from a '96 Alti (not much different) to a '00 Sentra SE with the performance package. Bought it used with 29k on it. You get the same body with a '00-'02 SE and the better SR20DE tried and true engine. If you find you miss the 30 HP the Spec V motor would have given you, you can add a turbo or drop a SR20DET into it.

My SE eats my Alti that my girlfriend now drives. :D
 

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don't get the spec. get a SE with Performance package. trustworthy engine, better reliabilty, and cheaper price. hell i wish i had done that!
 

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Sunburst Spec V said:
Get the Spec, can't go wrong with the HLSD and six speed which you wont get with an SE. And the Spec's torque is so much fun.
you get a LSD with the Performance package!!! plus your insurance will be a lot less.
and who needs a 6 speed? its just more shifting
 

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Amplified2000 said:
The intake manifold on the QR25DE (thats the engine in the Spec) has 2 sets of runners (the pathway that air follows to the cylinders). The first one follows a longer path, and the second one is a more direct route to the cylinders. The longer path allows for greater performance in the lower RPM range, while the second shorter ones allow for better performance in the upper RPM range. The second shorter runners are closed off until ~5000 RPM by a set of butterfly valves (similar to the ones you see in top mounted blowers on drag cars, or the plate you see in a throttle body). At ~5000 RPM these valves open allowing more air into the engine.

Alot of people have thought that opening these second runners sooner, or leaving them open would boost performance, but it has been proven to NOT give more power in the lower RPM's.. acutally you will lose performance by doing so (unless you are turbocharged).

The valve timing on the QR25DE is called a CVTC system.. and the CV means it is Constantly Variable.. so there is no way to controll it, or make it switch. It is not the same as Honda's VTEC which has basically 2 settings and can be made to switch on sooner.

Basically messing with either of these systems is a lost cause, it was done pretty well from the factory.. you will find you performance gains in other areas to be far greater than anything you could extract from these two systems.
since when does the second intake runner open at 5000 i thought it was at like 3500...i know the cam changes at like 5500 well in both my specs it has at least.
 

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2cute said:
since when does the second intake runner open at 5000 i thought it was at like 3500...i know the cam changes at like 5500 well in both my specs it has at least.
It's 5k...and the cam doesn't "change"....
 

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2cute said:
since when does the second intake runner open at 5000 i thought it was at like 3500...i know the cam changes at like 5500 well in both my specs it has at least.
Actually I believe it might be 5100 rpms.. if you listen to the engine you can hear them open at ~5k.. especially if you have an intake. And like pugnex said the cam doesnt change.. if you read what I posted you'll see that the "CV" in CVTC stands for Constantly Variable.. there is no one point where the cam timing changes.. its CONSTANTLY changing.

As for the people saying get the SE over the Spec... IMO getting the SE w/pp would only be better if you absolutly are planning on going FI or doing a massive N/A build because mod for mod pre-FI the Spec will beat the SE. Plus the VLSD is no comparison to the HLSD in the Spec.
 

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Amplified2000 said:
Plus the VLSD is no comparison to the HLSD in the Spec.
If you are accelerating from 55 to 85 on the highway, then neither is needed. If you are auto xing the HLSD will put you into a category the Spec isn't built to compete in. On normal streets HLSD is only useful over VLSD if you are driving like it's open season on pedestrians. Specs are nice, I chose an SE instead because I don't want to get charged by my insurance like I have a BMW, and I want reliability. When I add a t28 setup, I won't have to pay for the extra HP in insurance.
 

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zerosin said:
If you are accelerating from 55 to 85 on the highway, then neither is needed. If you are auto xing the HLSD will put you into a category the Spec isn't built to compete in. On normal streets HLSD is only useful over VLSD if you are driving like it's open season on pedestrians. Specs are nice, I chose an SE instead because I don't want to get charged by my insurance like I have a BMW, and I want reliability. When I add a t28 setup, I won't have to pay for the extra HP in insurance.
i wish you had talked to me before i had bought my car.
 
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