[beberod]

I've done alot of searching and have done the following:

Replaced TB

Replaced ACC Pedal

Cleaned battery terminals Including chassis and engine ground connetions from the battery.

When the ECM first threw the code I searched and most of the conclusions came down to replacing the TB, so I did. After installing the TB I did the 3 relearns that need to be done. The car ran/idled fine after this, so I went around the block a few times and then filled the tank.

The next day I had a some running around to do and the car was flawless. I returned home and the car sat for a few days. I needed to go run around again so i hopped in the car and went. I made it a whole block before the car jumped foward and went back into limp mode. So I limped both mine and the cars butts home.

I contacted the place that I purchased the TB from who then put me in contact with their tech at hitachi. After explaining what happened to him and the intallation and relearn process that I went through, he okayed the exchange for another TB.

After intalling the new (first one was new from Hitachi also) TB, I plugged in my handheld reader to erase the trouble code so that I could do the relearns again. Unfortunatly this time the code would'nt erase so I plugged in my laptop which also has an obdII reader/code eraser and nothing.

So I ended up saying screw it and purchased a pedal assembly, plugged it in and tried to do the erase and relearn again. Nope! nothing. So Ive been hunting around looking to see what else it may be.

From what I have seen, alot of people are having a problem with the green wire on the TB plug that either has the coating scraped down to the wire and corroded or it's fried and bubbled. I checked the harness from the plug to where it bundles into the rest of the wires running on top of the valve cover and all of the wires "appear" to be in good shape.

I also read that some people where running the car, wiggling (Technical huh) wires and plugs to hear if there is a change in the idle from a bad connection or bad wire. Tried it, nothing, so I did more searching.

So now after all of the long winded blah blah, are some questions.

From what I have read, the green wire is supposed to have 5v running through it.

What would be the proper method to check this with a multimeter?

Through the back of the plug with the key in the on postion?

Through the back of the plug with the engine running?

Or unplug the connector and probe the plug with the key in the on position?

I've also read about some people having to replace the ECM or the wire loom. I may go farther back on the loom to see if there are any obvious signs of a bad green wire but I would rather test the voltage to the TB before I go there.

 

[i68k]

P2135 NISSAN - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

to troublesoot the wiring on the tb, its all in the fsm. make sure the blue/green connectors are pressed on until they click onto the connector, you may have to press firmly but dont press the wires. while the engine is running, you can roll the wires through your fingers(wiggling), if the car kind of stumbles its idle, theres a break in the wire. sometimes dirt and other crap works it way up the wires. however, seeing that you cannot clear or access you codes is leading to a bad ecu, so follow the troubleshooting in the fsm, as you already have done most of the common steps.

edit: make sure your battery terminals are super tight and cannot move, make sure they didnt stretch out.

 

[beberod]

thanks for the reply i68k. I'll have try rolling the wires individually to see if I can hear any stumble. I was really hoping and crossing my fingers that it would'nt be the ECM. I guess after checking the wires a bit more, I'll call around to see which dealer has the best price for an ECM and reprograming.

 

[i68k]

go thru the steps in the fsm before you change out your ecm, make sure you check your fuses for the obd2 port as well.

 

[beberod]

I'll have to check the fsm for the fuse location, but I did check the voltage output of the TB and they all checked out. I did find an older post about someone (forget his/her name) that had changed everything accept for the wire loom (sub loom?) because that person also had the P2135 code and the only thing that worked was replacing the MAF. So I ordered an MAF because it was inexpesive and I still want to (don't know if it's the best idea) ECM to check the connection itself for corrosion. Process of illimination seems to be the way it has to happen, even at the (freind was a asc cert master mech for a dealership) dealer.

 

[i68k]

...only thing that worked was replacing the MAF. So I ordered an MAF because it was inexpesive...

hope you got a genuine oem nissan maf, otherwise youll have more problems.

i would pull the ecu and just take a look at it, there was a few recalls on certain years for it rusting up. make sure the wires going to the ecu are not fraying or sheering or something, make sure the connector clicks on just in case. and the fsm is your best friend

 

[beberod]

I'll have to look at the recalls, though I seem to remember one of the ecm recalls and my vin# didn't fall within their number range.

 

[beberod]

Got tired of the nickle and dime crap and took the car to the dealer. Needless to say I fell down and broke my wallet. The problem ended up being the main wire harness, specifically one of the TPS wires. The dealer did not replace the entire harness (though next time I was told I would have to) but fixed the bad wire(s). They told me that even though the TPS wires showed (multimeter) the correct voltage while the engine was off, when the engine was running the wire(s) shorted out (grounded out? thats what the tech said anyways) and that is what was throwing the code and blowing the TPS.