How To: Jimmy Bar Lower Tie Bar Install - Nissan Sentra Forum - B15, B16 and B17 Sentra Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-29-2007, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
xbrandonx
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How To: Jimmy Bar Lower Tie Bar Install

Tools needed:

Breaker bar
Ratchet
22mm socket
22mm wrench

(if you're dong the 4 pt you'll need a 14mm socket as well.)



Jack the car up and secure it on jackstands. You can't do this on ramps, you cannot have your weight on your wheels. It is also a tad easier if you do go ahead and remove your front wheels, however its not necessary, and I didn't do it that way.

Use your 22mm socket with a breaker bar and your 22mm wrench and remove the 2 bolts on the transverse link.



If your doing just the 2 point put the bar on and torque the bolts down to factory specs. The Nismo bar attaches differnt. It has a little cup instead of attaching on both sides, it just attaches on one. The Nismo bar sits on the front of the bolt, with the cup facing twards the front bumper.

If your doing the full 4 point bar then take your 14mm socket and ratchet and remove the 2 bolts on the back of the link. (There are 3 of them, the tie bar uses the 2 in the middle.) If your not sure just hold the bar up in place and you'll see which 2 to remove.



Line the rear 2 bolts up and start them but do not tighten them down. Line the bar up, start with the passanger side, for some reason it seems to be easier to do it this way.

Alright, when you removed the front bolts you may have noticed your wheel drop a bit and not be lined up. Have a helper take some of the weight off the wheel and get it back in line. Feed the bolt back through and get it started as well. Do the same for the driver's side, taking the weight off the wheel if necessary.

Tighten all bolts down to factory specs. The front longer bolt (the 22mm one) is 76-89 ft lbs and the rear (14mm bolt) is 42-50 ft lbs.







There is a pic on FSU-5 in your FSM

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post #2 of 6 Old 04-29-2007, 05:14 PM
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was an alignment needed after the wheel dropped like that?
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-29-2007, 09:27 PM
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I gonna bet no

Quote:
Originaly Posted by chimmike
...honda makes less torque than your lugnuts require.
I drive a boosted honda now, how ironic

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post #4 of 6 Old 04-30-2007, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProZach626
was an alignment needed after the wheel dropped like that?
You know, I bought the nismo LTB before I got this one. Their instructions state to "have your alignment checked" However, the tolerences in the bushings are very very tight and mine did not need one. Some people have claimed that they did need one. I'm not sure if the difference is in how you go about it, what you might pry on, or just sheer dumb luck.

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post #5 of 6 Old 05-19-2007, 06:10 AM
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Are some popping/ clunking noises at first normal? Its only been a few days, but Im sometimes getting noises from the ltb area when I corner hard or just backing out of a parking spot. Ive tightened everything up again and it didnt go away. I only get the noise when Im backing up with the wheel turned, or when Im cornering hard, and its not every time.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-19-2007, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bengxe
Are some popping/ clunking noises at first normal? Its only been a few days, but Im sometimes getting noises from the ltb area when I corner hard or just backing out of a parking spot. Ive tightened everything up again and it didnt go away. I only get the noise when Im backing up with the wheel turned, or when Im cornering hard, and its not every time.

Usually the clunking and poping is a sign that you didn't torque everything correctly (which you've said you checked).

However I'd suggesting turning the wheel all the way and make sure that nothing is binding or hitting, and then turn it the other way and check the same thing.

However, no usually any noise is NOT common.

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