SE upgrade opinions - Page 2 - Nissan Sentra Forum - B15, B16 and B17 Sentra Forums
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post #16 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 09:20 AM
SR20dee
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nah its nothing aginst the mods.. IMHO if your not racing seriously you do not need a clutch upgrade.

and without a header or cams you do not need a FPR.

GET INTO RACING!!!
www.ner.org www.nescc.org www.fcscc.com www.scca.org

01 Nissan Sentra w/PP(167K mileswith new rear brake calipers. )

11 Toyota 4Runner(55000 mile Tank )
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post #17 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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I do plan on getting the Hotshot headers!
For some reason when driving for a long peroid of time the clutch starts to slip. But after cooling down goes back to normal. I assumed a stronger clutch like a stage 2 might help.

2001 SE Black, HS CAI, 2.25 exhaust w/Aerospeed muffler, B&M ss, 17'' ICW Kamikaze's, ES MMI's, Cross drilling of the factory rotor's, KYB struts with Nismo springs.

Last edited by Britjamcoolie; 03-03-2004 at 09:27 AM.
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post #18 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 09:28 AM
SR20dee
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more so hydro fluid related that combined with driver timing leads to that issue.. the above setup i mentioned would releive that i would think.
im waiting to see what atb20 did to his car.. and see if it aleives this issue..

GET INTO RACING!!!
www.ner.org www.nescc.org www.fcscc.com www.scca.org

01 Nissan Sentra w/PP(167K mileswith new rear brake calipers. )

11 Toyota 4Runner(55000 mile Tank )
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post #19 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 11:09 AM
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maybe some Redline MT90 trans fuild would be inorder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adc100
They will have to improve mechanical Cooters.
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post #20 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 01:37 PM
SR20dee
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wrong fluid pimp

GET INTO RACING!!!
www.ner.org www.nescc.org www.fcscc.com www.scca.org

01 Nissan Sentra w/PP(167K mileswith new rear brake calipers. )

11 Toyota 4Runner(55000 mile Tank )
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post #21 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SR20dee
wrong fluid pimp
I mean some Motul.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adc100
They will have to improve mechanical Cooters.
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post #22 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 02:40 PM
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I agree that the JWT PP with a Stock clutch disc would probably be best. If you are not really into serious racing, then the JWT PP may not be needed and the stock PP may be a cheaper and better choice.
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post #23 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 02:53 PM
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i love the b&m shifter for the sr20. i highly recommend it.
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post #24 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by sonnypippo
i love the b&m shifter for the sr20. i highly recommend it.
I agree, it's a quality piece, and thereare no problems with it. All the problems you keep seeing are with the Spec V short shifter, which is totally different that the one you would use on your car.
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post #25 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lee
I mean some Motul.
I've been deleted...

I would also agree with the B&M fun and worht while change...

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See, I just use the $4 stethascope from Wal-Mart...'cause I role play a EMT in the bedroom. lmfao "Clear!!!!"*BANG*
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post #26 of 26 Old 03-03-2004, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SR20dee
more so hydro fluid related that combined with driver timing leads to that issue.. the above setup i mentioned would releive that i would think.
im waiting to see what atb20 did to his car.. and see if it aleives this issue..
I changed my hydro fluid and it helped. But I think a better PP might help more. My Protege does not have this problem, nor has any other car I have driven, but the SE does, and it does seem related to heat. But I think it is in the PP, not the fluid. Its likely that when the PP overheats the fluid boils or is degraded a bit, so swapping the fluid seems to help, but is not the answer. Kinda like bad brake pads.
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