HOW TO - B15 Nismo Bushing Install - - Nissan Sentra Forum
User Tag List

Thread Tools Rate Thread
#1 Old 01-19-2008, 07:17 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 227
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
HOW TO - B15 Nismo Bushing Install

Nismo B15 Hard Bushing Install

I think quite a few folks have passed up the Nismo hard bushings because it appears too difficult to install. I'm here to tell you it's not with the right tools. The car's responsiveness is improved and roll stiffness is increased. For those weekend racers, this is a great mod. Not to mention one of the best replacements for OEM if your ball joints are shot (like mine where).

I completed this install in approx 4hrs with no instructions and sort of guessing as I went, but it came together quite nicely. Here is a simple step by step to help.

Sockets - deep well
10mm, 14mm, 17mm, 22mm

Air tools -
Socket Wrench, Impact Wrench

Misc tools -
Ball joint press set, Hammer, pliers, screwdriver, 2 med size cotter pins

All of these tools are a necessity. If you dont have air tools, or unable to rent the Ball joint press set, stop right here. If you do, then lets move on.


Special Tool - Ball Joint Press Set

1. Getting started
Jack up the car, remove the wheels and leave the key in the ignition so the steering wheel doesnt lock. Dont not leave the key in the on or acc position.

2. Removing the front lower control arms
This step can be accomplished so quickly you'll probably surprise yourself. Removing the control arm doesnt involve removing the brakes, hub or axle.

Step 1. Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint. Loosen the 17mm nut until the nut is just resting against the bottom of the axle. (See picture below) Do not force the nut out or try to remove it. The nut should be at the top of the ball joint now.

Step 2. Remove the 14mm nut on the sway bar end link. Remove the nut, washer and lower bushing. Swing the sway bar up so that the end link threads are no longer seated in the control arm.

Step 3. Loosen the 3 17mm bolts on the back of the control arm, 1 turn only

Step 4. Loosen the 22mm bolt. Remove the nut but leave the bolt through the control arm.

Step 5. With a Hammer, wack the spindle in the EXACT spot circled. Two good wacks and the ball joint will drop from the spindle - resting on the loosened nut at the top. Do not hit the lower control arm. Remove the nut from the ball joint.

Step 6. Remove the 3 17mm bolts from Step 3. Remove the 22mm bolt from Step 4. Remove the lower control arm. Yes, its that easy.

3. Installing the Nismo Lower Control Arms
The install is the exact reverse of the removal. Follow the torque guidelines in the Nismo instructions. As you can see above, my ball joints were toast.

Step 1. Position the lower control arm so that the ball joint is partially seated in the spindle

Step 2. Align the front and rear portion of the lower control arm (LCA) and install the 3 17mm bolts and 22mm bolt loosely. Also seat the sway bar end link through the LCA. Install the bushing, washer and nut to hand tight.

Step 3. Fully torque the ball joint nut, install the new cotter pin, and tighten all bolts to spec. Now move on the other side and complete the other LCA.

4. Removing the Scott Russell Linkage (SRL) from the Rear Beam
There are 3 bushings to be pressed out from the SRL (note NB in the picture). Two in the aluminum dogbone and one located on the left side of the SRL (when looking from the rear to the front).

Step 1. Remove the 17mm bolt/nut from the left side of the SRL.

Step 2. Loosen the 17mm nut from the right side one turn only.

Step 3. Loosen the 17mm bolt and nut from the right side of the dog bone one turn only.

Step 4. Remove the 22mm nut from the center of the SRL, left side of the dog bone.

Step 5. Remove the 17mm nut from Step 2. Remove the 17mm bolt and nut from Step 3.

Step 6. Slide back the SRL off the center pivot arm from Step 4. The SRL and dog bone can now be removed. Notate on the dogbone which side is up and faces forward. The bushing sizes are different.

Please visit for SE-R race parts
SmokinJoe is offline  
Sponsored Links
#2 Old 01-19-2008, 07:17 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 227
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
5. Removing the Rear Beam and Trailing Arms
To lower the beam you must have someone helping you. Possibly you could use a jack, but the install would be a little cumbersome. Pay off a neighbor with a cold beer and wrap this step up without any wrestling.

Do both left and right sides in succession. Which means, do each step for each side before moving to the next step.

Step 1. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the Ebrake cable to the trailing arm.

Step 2. Remove the 17mm bolt/nut from the trailing arm end.

Step 3. Remove both c-clips holding the brake line to the rear beam (4 clips in all)

Step 4. Release the ebrake from inside the car. Remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the rear caliper to the hub. With a coat hanger or bungie, hang the caliper out of the way.

Step 5. Loosen the 17mm bolt holding the shock to the hub. Position the Ebrake cable up and out of the way from where it crosses the trailing arm end. Note the cable in the first picture.

Step 6. With the rear beam secured by a friend, remove the 17mm bolt from the shock on each side. The beam and trailing arm should drop out of position without any hangups.

6. Replacing the Rear Trailing Arm End Bushings
Take note of the position of the OEM bushing in the trailing arm. Note how deep each end is seated. I found the outside race to be seated deeper than the inside race.

Step 1. Using the Press Set, locate the large race. This is large enough for the bushing to fit into when pressed out.

Step 2. Find a flat piece of steel. You may also use a race that is the exact circumference of the bushing race to be pressed out. I used the former.

Step 3. With the air impact gun, compress the Press Set until the bushing falls into the race from Step 1. Located on the right side of the picture. Note - after compressing the steel plate against the rear trailing arm, loosen the Press Set and replace the steel plate with a socket that is sized small enough to rest against the center of the bushing. Then reattach the Press Set and continue until the bushing is removed.

Step 4. Install is the exact opposite. Using the same technique, press in the new Nismo Bushing. Grease the outside of the bushing and compress the Press Set.

7. Replacing the Scott Russell Link Bushings
I suggest using a dedicated press. If you dont have one, most shops would press in the bearings for you. You could also try the Press set if you locate the correct race sizes. Since the SRL and dog bone are portable, taking it to a shop would be the easiest.

Step 1. Be sure to install the correct Nismo bushing in the correct area. All three of these bushing appear to be exactly the same size. But they arent! Use the Nismo instructions, for the bushings labeled bushing 4, 5, 6.

Step 2. Press out the old bushing, install the new. The aluminum dog bone material is soft, ensure it doesnt crack or bend when pressing against it. Here I am using a socket to press down on the outside race of the bushing. The socket is small enough to slide through the dog bone.

8. Installing the Rear Beam and Scott Russell Link
With the new bushings installed, the install is a snap and shouldnt take long to get completed. Be sure to have the car realigned once completed. Subtle changes in toe/camber will have an impact on the wear of your tires, the car's handling, etc.

Step 1. Lift the beam into place by positioning the trailing arm end links in the brackets and slide though the 17mm bolt. Continue to have a friend hold the beam up.

Step 2. Position the bottom of the shock into the hub bracket and install the 17mm bolt. Once both ends are complete, tighten the 17mm shock bolts and 17mm trailing arm bolt/nut to spec.

Step 3. Reinstall the brake caliper on the hub and Ebrake line (10mm bolts) to the trailing arm. Install the c-clips. The caliper should go on smoothly and there shouldnt be a need to space out the caliper piston.

Step 4. Position the dog bone correctly inside the SRL. Working from the back of the beam, closest to the front of the car, bring the SRL up and slide the dog bone onto the center pivot arm, where the 22mm nut attaches. Loosely attach the 22mm nut.

Step 5. Position the right side of the SRL on the far right side pivot arm (Step 2 in the picture above). Attach the 17mm nut loosely on the pivot arm.

Step 6. Position the left side of the SRL into the chassis bracket. Install the 17mm bolt and nut loosely. Step 1 in the picture.

Step 7. Install the 17mm bolt/nut through the right side of the dog bone, Step 3 in the picture.

Step 8. Tighten to spec all bolts from Step 4 to Step 7. Check the entire rear beam, trailing arm and SRL. Install the rear wheels and get the car aligned. Enjoy!

Please visit for SE-R race parts
SmokinJoe is offline  
#3 Old 01-19-2008, 08:26 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: columbus, OH
Posts: 984
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via MSN to B15AZN Send a message via Yahoo to B15AZN Send a message via Skype™ to B15AZN
Dude where you do you get that jack?
B15AZN is offline  
#4 Old 01-19-2008, 09:14 PM
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bradenton/LWR Fl.
Posts: 1,154
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
sticky!!!!!...... great write up, and yeah that floor jack is gansta.

SportE-B15 MY CAR My 85 El Camino
01 Blackout SE 5spd wP/P
Weapon R header, VRS 2.5" catback, short ram intake w/K&N, 03 Spec-V Front end.
06 Spec-V wheels, 6,000k HID, Nismo LTB, Greddy trunk bar
SportE-B15 is offline  
#5 Old 01-19-2008, 10:09 PM
Registered User
cburwell's Avatar
Join Date: May 2002
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 5,244
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to cburwell
Nice How-To! I have had the rear Nismo bushings and some Whitline rear trailing arm bushings sitting around for years!
cburwell is offline  
#6 Old 01-19-2008, 10:44 PM
STU STi Build Complete
piknockout's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 3,212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to piknockout
Nice writeup.

Hey Chris, want to sell me those rear Nismo bushings? I could use the SRL bushings to complement my RTA bushings.

2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - Pics - Formerly 2003 Sunburst SE-R Spec V

3 STU - 2006 Philly STX Champ - 2007/2008 WDCR STX Champ - 2007/2008 A.I. STX Champ

Sponsored by Agile Automotive Performance
piknockout is offline  
#7 Old 01-20-2008, 01:18 AM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: El Monte, CA
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Subscribing for later use! Great write up man!
Yellomantis is offline  
#8 Old 01-26-2008, 12:35 PM
Canyon junkie! ( ^o^) <3
SR20DE_MAN's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: On mile 170,000! \(^o^ )
Posts: 4,332
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to SR20DE_MAN Send a message via MSN to SR20DE_MAN Send a message via Yahoo to SR20DE_MAN
Thumbs up

Excellent thread! Thanks! ( ^o^) <3

Former 2000 Nissan Sentra SE owner. Now I drive a little & underpowered "girly" NA8C car that can own many big & overpowered "manly" cars on a good chunk of canyon roads & road courses. Go NA8C! \(^o^ ) <3
SR20DE_MAN is offline  

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome