5. Removing the Rear Beam and Trailing Arms
To lower the beam you must have someone helping you. Possibly you could use a jack, but the install would be a little cumbersome. Pay off a neighbor with a cold beer and wrap this step up without any wrestling.
Do both left and right sides in succession. Which means, do each step for each side before moving to the next step.
Step 1. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the Ebrake cable to the trailing arm.
Step 2. Remove the 17mm bolt/nut from the trailing arm end.
Step 3. Remove both c-clips holding the brake line to the rear beam (4 clips in all)
Step 4. Release the ebrake from inside the car. Remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the rear caliper to the hub. With a coat hanger or bungie, hang the caliper out of the way.
Step 5. Loosen the 17mm bolt holding the shock to the hub. Position the Ebrake cable up and out of the way from where it crosses the trailing arm end. Note the cable in the first picture.
Step 6. With the rear beam secured by a friend, remove the 17mm bolt from the shock on each side. The beam and trailing arm should drop out of position without any hangups.
6. Replacing the Rear Trailing Arm End Bushings
Take note of the position of the OEM bushing in the trailing arm. Note how deep each end is seated. I found the outside race to be seated deeper than the inside race.
Step 1. Using the Press Set, locate the large race. This is large enough for the bushing to fit into when pressed out.
Step 2. Find a flat piece of steel. You may also use a race that is the exact circumference of the bushing race to be pressed out. I used the former.
Step 3. With the air impact gun, compress the Press Set until the bushing falls into the race from Step 1. Located on the right side of the picture. Note - after compressing the steel plate against the rear trailing arm, loosen the Press Set and replace the steel plate with a socket that is sized small enough to rest against the center of the bushing. Then reattach the Press Set and continue until the bushing is removed.
Step 4. Install is the exact opposite. Using the same technique, press in the new Nismo Bushing. Grease the outside of the bushing and compress the Press Set.
7. Replacing the Scott Russell Link Bushings
I suggest using a dedicated press. If you dont have one, most shops would press in the bearings for you. You could also try the Press set if you locate the correct race sizes. Since the SRL and dog bone are portable, taking it to a shop would be the easiest.
Step 1. Be sure to install the correct Nismo bushing in the correct area. All three of these bushing appear to be exactly the same size. But they arent! Use the Nismo instructions, for the bushings labeled bushing 4, 5, 6.
Step 2. Press out the old bushing, install the new. The aluminum dog bone material is soft, ensure it doesnt crack or bend when pressing against it. Here I am using a socket to press down on the outside race of the bushing. The socket is small enough to slide through the dog bone.
8. Installing the Rear Beam and Scott Russell Link
With the new bushings installed, the install is a snap and shouldnt take long to get completed. Be sure to have the car realigned once completed. Subtle changes in toe/camber will have an impact on the wear of your tires, the car's handling, etc.
Step 1. Lift the beam into place by positioning the trailing arm end links in the brackets and slide though the 17mm bolt. Continue to have a friend hold the beam up.
Step 2. Position the bottom of the shock into the hub bracket and install the 17mm bolt. Once both ends are complete, tighten the 17mm shock bolts and 17mm trailing arm bolt/nut to spec.
Step 3. Reinstall the brake caliper on the hub and Ebrake line (10mm bolts) to the trailing arm. Install the c-clips. The caliper should go on smoothly and there shouldnt be a need to space out the caliper piston.
Step 4. Position the dog bone correctly inside the SRL. Working from the back of the beam, closest to the front of the car, bring the SRL up and slide the dog bone onto the center pivot arm, where the 22mm nut attaches. Loosely attach the 22mm nut.
Step 5. Position the right side of the SRL on the far right side pivot arm (Step 2 in the picture above). Attach the 17mm nut loosely on the pivot arm.
Step 6. Position the left side of the SRL into the chassis bracket. Install the 17mm bolt and nut loosely. Step 1 in the picture.
Step 7. Install the 17mm bolt/nut through the right side of the dog bone, Step 3 in the picture.
Step 8. Tighten to spec all bolts from Step 4 to Step 7. Check the entire rear beam, trailing arm and SRL. Install the rear wheels and get the car aligned. Enjoy!