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#1 |
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Site Admin
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Pennsyltucky
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Superpro trailing arm bushing Install | Impressions
I got these in the mail yesterday. I was bored so I decided to install them. I've done a Nismo bushing install before so I knew what was involved. As some of you know ES did develop some a little while ago but they have never made it out to production. Superpro is a very well known company in Australia making many things for Nissan among other models. The g20 sports upper link bushings from them as well. Everything has always fit very well and was engineered well.
Now onto the install. The whole rear beam of the b15 can be dropped with a total of total of 13 bolts (21 if you include the lug nuts) Start by jacking the car up and putting jackstands under the pinch welds. Also a good idea to put some blocks in front of the front wheels. ![]() Tools specific to dropping the rear beam. 10mm wrench or socket 14mm wrench or socket 17mm wrenches (2) and socket as well pliers or something similar to remove brake line bracket holder Now remove the rear wheels. Unbolt the calipers (just the calipers not the torque members). (14mm) Remove the clip holding the brake line to the beam. Unbolt the 2 10mm bolts that hold the e-brake line to the trailing arm. Now zip tie up the caliper out of the way. Remove the lower strut bolt holding it to the beam (17mm) Above the center of the beam you will see a single 17mm bolt holding the lateral link to the car. Place a jack under the rear beam until it is supported. Remove that bolt. Now all that is left is removing the trailing arms. Remove the 17mm bolt. *note* on the drivers side you may have trouble backing out the bolt to remove it as it hits the heat shield for the gas tank. You may be able to get that heat shield off but I have never had good luck with it. Its easiest just to make a few dents so you can get the bolt out. Thats it, wheel the rear axle away, its free. To get the whiteline bushings in you end up re-using the metal casing and burning out the rubber bushing. ![]() Burn around the outside of the metal and you will start to see the rubber delaminate from the sleeve. Do this all the way around the outside of both sides. Then push the bearing out. (careful not to burn yourself) You may have to do some burning of rubber inside the casing that didn't come out. Clean the surface so it is smooth. ![]() Now its time to install the bushings. ![]() The bushings come with grease. Lube up the inside of the casing. Then put some on the part of bushing that will slide in. Then also put some on the metal sleeve and slide that in. ![]() Now wasn't that easy...... well it was but you aren't done yet. The brackets that hold the trailing arms in place have some positioning tabs that will interfere with the new bushings. Remove the brackets from the car (4 17mm bolts) Here you can see that tab. ![]() To remove it there is a spot weld you can drill out on the other side. Then with a hammer and chisel you can knock it free. This part may take you the longest depending on what tools you have at your disposal. Once the tabs are off, clean up the surface so it is smooth. Might want to throw some spray paint on there as well so it doesn't rust. Re-install the trailing arm brackets. Re-install the lateral link bolt. Re-install the trailing arms. (make sure the e-brake cable are routed properly) Re-install lower strut bolts Re-install caliper Re-install e-brake cable holder bolts Re-install brake line clip Re-install wheels. ![]() Go out and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Impressions: I'm constantly trying to make my car handle less boat like. It doesn't handle bad but still not to my liking. The car has koni shocks with 350 in/lb springs all around. A lower control arm brace which greatly helped turn in. Still the car has never really rotated to my liking. So I took the car for a drive to see if I could feel any difference. My fear is I would feel no difference. Well after 2 turns that fear was quelled. The car finally rotates like it should. I'm very impressed just a few bushings made the car handle so much better. A much better install howto will be coming along. If you want a set of these, Chuck a long time member of the se-r community is selling them. Look here: http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/show....php?p=1655532
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b15 with a spud g20 sporting b15 SE wheels 240k!!! rusting NX track car with a replacement i35 new daily driver Last edited by david : 08-20-2005 at 11:15 AM. |
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#2 | |
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Lets do this I'm a cashew
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DO you know if they fit the Spec-V rear beam? I've heard / read conflicting things about it being different from the SE.
***edit I can't believe I missed that GB thread.
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-Misanthropic Gnome Quote:
2004 blackout Spec-V |
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#3 |
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King of OT
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: MA/NH USA
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Are these bushings included in the nismo bushing kit, or are these a different location?
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2004 1.8 in blackout w/ Pacesetter SS+ ES bushings, 80a shore MM, OZ Matrix Elite cs180, Eclipse 8455, DLS A5, eD 11kv2, RL water wetter |
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#4 |
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Site Admin
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Pennsyltucky
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Ironically they fit the N15, N16, B14, B15 and P11
Nissan didn't change the trailing arm bushing size. The only thing they did change was make the beam itself thicker. The mechanics are the same.
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b15 with a spud g20 sporting b15 SE wheels 240k!!! rusting NX track car with a replacement i35 new daily driver |
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#5 | |
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Site Admin
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Pennsyltucky
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Quote:
Plus whiteline makes some bushings for the front control arm that actually increase castor I am thinking of getting. Then the remaining ones I believe you can get from ES.
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b15 with a spud g20 sporting b15 SE wheels 240k!!! rusting NX track car with a replacement i35 new daily driver |
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#6 | |
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Lets do this I'm a cashew
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Great info David! Thanks!
Dave / Pugnex: These look to be Polyurathane, which makes them worth so much more than the hard rubber nismo ones. Except for the fact the nismo one is a whole kit. ![]()
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-Misanthropic Gnome Quote:
2004 blackout Spec-V |
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#7 |
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King of OT
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: MA/NH USA
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Hmmm, interesting....I'm sure the install would take me much longer than the 3-4 hrs you originally specified, based on my previous install times, but it seems to be worth it.
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2004 1.8 in blackout w/ Pacesetter SS+ ES bushings, 80a shore MM, OZ Matrix Elite cs180, Eclipse 8455, DLS A5, eD 11kv2, RL water wetter |
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#8 |
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Site Admin
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Pennsyltucky
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Probably took me much too long to get those positioning tabs out. Plus I took things out in the wrong order so I could have gotten done much faster. If I did it again I'm sure it could be done in 2 hours or so.
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b15 with a spud g20 sporting b15 SE wheels 240k!!! rusting NX track car with a replacement i35 new daily driver |
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#9 |
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STU STi Build Complete
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Great write up David, they should come in handy when I go to install mine. For only $55 to get some better handling, I'll try it out. I bet I have to take off my RSB first though, that thing is such a bish to deal with and adjust.
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2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - Pics - Formerly 2003 Sunburst SE-R Spec V 3 STU - 2006 Philly STX Champ - 2007/2008 WDCR STX Champ - 2007/2008 A.I. STX Champ Sponsored by Agile Automotive Performance |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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David: let us know if that Whiteline anti lift kit offset bushing thing actually fits B15s
I've been eyeing that part on the Whiteline website for some time now....
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2002 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V Blackout The Sig monster ate my sig |
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#11 |
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Canyon junkie! ( ^o^) <3
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This sounds like a thing to do to my car as well. I think I'm gonna get a set for the front as well!
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Former 2000 Nissan Sentra SE owner. Now I drive a little & underpowered "girly" NA8C car that can own many big & overpowered "manly" cars on a good chunk of canyon roads & road courses. Go NA8C! \(^o^ ) <3 |
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#12 | ||
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Lets do this I'm a cashew
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Quote:
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-Misanthropic Gnome Quote:
2004 blackout Spec-V |
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#13 |
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Southern Shift Racing
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NC
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Wow, this is great news. For $55 you can't beat it, not to mention this is probably the next best thing to a RSB. And the install doesn't seem too hard either. Thanks for the write up David.
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#14 |
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STU STi Build Complete
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So, do you think it would be too much if you already have a RSB? Or do I just need to test it out for myself!
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2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - Pics - Formerly 2003 Sunburst SE-R Spec V 3 STU - 2006 Philly STX Champ - 2007/2008 WDCR STX Champ - 2007/2008 A.I. STX Champ Sponsored by Agile Automotive Performance |
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#15 | |
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Registered User
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^^^
Cut the trail
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