Replacing Rotors and pads. How easy ?

[lowspeed]

Would you say it's pretty easy to replace the rotors and pads?

What socket sizes do i need ? (btw is it metric or the "other")


Thanks.




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[mirrortints]

The US doesn't use metric, so you will need standard sockets.

[txspeccer]

Originally Posted by mirrortints

The US doesn't use metric, so you will need standard sockets.

LOL...

Every American car I've owned required metric wrenches/sockets.

[orangelloSE-R]

I'm not sure what model you have, but you should check out some of the threads about brakes in the Technical Forum. It wasn't that hard, certainly easier than some drum brakes i've done. There is a weird "cube" brake tool for retracting the piston on the rear brakes, IIRC.

[Frodo]

Fronts are easy as pie just a few sockets, a big c clamp and some wire or twist ties. I did mine off the how to posted here somewhere and it was a fast job.

[2001se2.0]

pads are cake, rotors can be a bit of a chore, depending on how long they've been on the car.

You'll need a 14 mm wrench or socket, a couple boxed end wrenches big enough to fit around a wheel stud (I'll explain later), some PB Blaster, wire brush, brake cleaner, anti-seize, a short 2x4, a hammer, the new parts of course and a 6 pack of your favorite beer.

Lift and jack-stand the vehicle, remove the 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper in place (inner side of the rotor) and wire tie or bungee the rotor up and out of the way. Then remove the brake bracket, the metal that's left behind that's in front of the rotor, 14mm or 17mm IIRC. Next, spray some PB Blaster around each wheel stud where it meets the face of the rotor, have a beer, occasionally spraying more PB in there once in a while, you should see it go in. Next grab that 2x4 and hammer, place the 2x4 against the inner face of the rotor and give it a couple smacks with the hammer in line with the studs, rotate and repeat.

Sometimes the rotors pop right off and sometimes they're really rusted onto the inner hub. Once off, clean the hub face with the wire brush and apply anti-seize where the hub and rotor meet. Put on the new rotor and use the boxed end wrenches and a wheel nut to hold the rotor in place while you replace the pads.

Let me know if you need me to go through the pads.

[MamaLukuBuku]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Fronts are easy as pie just a few sockets, a big c clamp and some wire or twist ties. I did mine off the how to posted here somewhere and it was a fast job.

+1

But don't and I repeat DON'T, use the C-clamp on the back calipers because you will end screwing them up beyond repair. You will need to go to Autozone and rent (you put a deposit on it but get your money back when you return it) a special caliper tool. It is the only proper way to reset the back calipers. You can use a flathead screw driver and a hammer, but I wouldn't recommend it. The reason behind the special tool for the backs only is because the back calipers are your E-brake calipers, and they are setup differently.

The fronts are cake though. You might have to beat the **** out of the rotor for it to loosen up, a rubber mallet works wonder, but other then that, if you have the right tools, it will be a quick and painless job.

[keelay]

^^what he said. But the caliper tool/cube is actually a good cheap investment. The thing is maybe $5, why not buy it and keep it in your tool box? Do it ONE time without that tool, and you'll GLADLY pay for the thing. I have used numerous things in place of it, but the best was a long/big pair of 90* tip needle nose pliers. DO NOT use the screwdriver/hammer method. That only put the lateral load on one side of the piston, and IMO will work, but may cause slop in the caliper piston.

[redfox]

Originally Posted by keelay

^^what he said. But the caliper tool/cube is actually a good cheap investment. The thing is maybe $5, why not buy it and keep it in your tool box? Do it ONE time without that tool, and you'll GLADLY pay for the thing. I have used numerous things in place of it, but the best was a long/big pair of 90* tip needle nose pliers. DO NOT use the screwdriver/hammer method. That only put the lateral load on one side of the piston, and IMO will work, but may cause slop in the caliper piston.

Fully agree, This tool is a no brainer for me..

[chiquae07]

i still dont know why you guys insist on beating the crap out of the rotor to get it off. spray some wd-40/pb blaster where the studs come out of the rotor, give a decent tap on each one of the studs, then spin the rotor and whack with hammer/mallet. should take less than 3 whacks to have the rotor come loose and take off by hand...

definitly grab the tool from az. it makes life 100% easier, and the cube just sucks. then again this doesnt help if your piston in rounded out