Hello guys

[Guitano]

Just found this site today and happy to be on.
Thanks for the greeting. Does anybody know how to bypass an amplifier on a 2006 Nissan Sentra special addition. There are 2 plugs with numberous wires eeck. color code? A special converter? Thanks again

[i68k]

welcome aboard!

wiring diagrams are in the fsm, that show color codes, you can download the fsm for free around here somewhere. im guessing you have the premium sound setup, now why would you want to bypass the amplifier? did it burn out or something? or are you replacing it with a different amp? what do you have for a headunit? do you have, or still want to use the stock sub?

[Guitano]

Yes the amplifier blew and can't afford an amp right now. I tried to find wiring diagram online for free, but have'nt been successful yet - I'll keep trying. Thanks again

[i68k]

try these:
nicoclub.com/fsm
allsentra.com/fsm

[Guitano]

Originally Posted by i68k

try these:
nicoclub.com/fsm
allsentra.com/fsm

Thanks again i68k; My system is a Rockford Fosgate premium sound (unit and amp). I'm trying to find out if amp has an internal fuse (don't have amp here). Thought I should know before splicing. You been a lot of help.

[i68k]

i dont remember if there is an internal fuse inside, i have some pics on my home computer i can look at later. i do know there are no external fuses, there are only 2 din conenctions to the amp.

EDIT: also, its a good idea to solder your audio connections. it maybe more work, but it will sound a lot clearer

[troyy03]

hello,i am troy.i am new here.

[Guitano]

I've decided to replace the Rockford Fosgate unit with a Pioneer unit with 50 watts per channel. Ok, I'm figuring all the wires out which I think I have solved, only have one question: Why does the Clarion woofer (single woofer) that came with 2006 Sentra premium system have 4 wire hook ups, thought subwoofers were monaural?
-little confused.

[i68k]

im not sure the exact reason why nissan did this, but your oem radio has only 4 corners, and no rca or anything like that. when you divide power between 7 speakers, it becomes very little power for the sub, probably barely enough power to move it. remember it is only a small 8" with a tiny magnet. the wiring, to get more power, is setup so the subwoofer is in the 'rear', so it gets power from both rear left, and rear right. this means the sub will still work if the crappy headunit just decides to lose one of those channels. now, if it got the same power as all the other corners, it would be the quietest speaker. generally, the idea is to lower the ohms for the sub, and raise the ohms for tweeters. similar idea for the fronts with tweeters. it seems they consolidated all the components, to use as few amps as possible, to not drain the charging system.

[Guitano]

Was referring to a single subwoofer with 4 wires-looks like speaker wires to me right and left channels?

[Guitano]

Thanks again i68k, think I'm gonna run rear speakers to (right & left 4 wires) to subwoofer and front speakers to front. Do you think thats enough juice for sub? There's other outputs for other speakers, I'll worry about rear speakers later. What do you think?

[i68k]

yes, the sub with 4 wires, 2 wires are coming from the rear left corner, and 2 wires from the rear right. you can combine both positives, and both negatives together, in parallel and the sub will work. you cannot use the 4 wires and run them in series/bridging, the sub will not work correctly. you should see this is the wiring diagram in the fsm, which shows you the wire color codes.

well, given your situation, new headunit, no amp, and oem sub, i would say just break it down and rewire everything, but this is entirely up to you. im not sure what headunit youhave, does it have 2 rca/amp outputs, just one? im not sure what the system will sound like without any amps, but im sure it wont be as loud as oem setup, 200w vs 300watt.

what i did using one amp was to run just the sub from the amp, which was a cheapo 300w 2channel, that replaced the oem amp and used my output from my kenwood headunit, and rewired all the speakers into the wiring harness on the headunit. however, if you can use 2 amps, it will be a much easier install, as you will be able to utilize the factory wiring, instead of rewiring. one amp to control the highs using 4 channels, the other amp to control the bridged sub. you dont need an overly expensive, or powerful amps, both of them can be 200w-500w, the amp for the highs needs a 4channel, the amp for the sub needs 1 channel, or is bridgeable. remember to use the fsm for your wiring, and use solder, especially on the headunit harness, it will sound a lot clearer. just keep in mind, with more than 300watt worth of amps, you will need a capacitor (preferrably), or upgraded big3.

ideally, there are many ways to go with this, so if you can kind of point a direction you want to go, well be glad to help. dont forget to tell us what headunit you have, or how many amp outs/rca it has on the back.

[Guitano]

I am replacing my oem unit with a Pioneer DEH-6800MP unit which has a seperate cord with 2 rca plug ins (left and right) which says for rear speakers, and 4 more rca plugins, 2 white and 2 red (left and right). I'm really trying to get away from having to buy any amps (for right now-money) and hook up the existing wires which come from amp outputs (amplified speaker wires) to new pioneer unit, which I will run wires from unit (16 gauge?) to trunk where previous wires a located. That way I don't have to tear car apart getting to speakers and reconnecting. The schematics for Pioneer unit shows two front (4wires) connections and two rear connections to subwoofer, but for 2 subs (4wires-right and left) and I guess the rear and additional front speakers are from the 4 rcas. I'm not trying for perfection just afraid of doing something wrong. I'm kinda of a novice at this.

[Guitano]

So, if I do run 4 rear wires (from four corners) to single subwoofer (oem), I can connect 2 rights and 2 lefts from both channels together then connect to TWO of the four wires on subwoofer (red and white)? I can get by with front speakers and a fairly good sounding rear subwoofer for now. Appreciate any help.

[i68k]

Originally Posted by Guitano

I'm really trying to get away from having to buy any amps (for right now-money) and hook up the existing wires which come from amp outputs (amplified speaker wires) to new pioneer unit, which I will run wires from unit (16 gauge?) to trunk where previous wires a located. That way I don't have to tear car apart getting to speakers and reconnecting.

well, im not sure what is easier for you, soldering wires, or pulling panels. the door panel is very easy to pull off. you can try wiring to the same as oem setup, by running your new wires to where the oem amp was, or cutting the fronts closer to the doors. however, your unamped wires are already at your headunit and run to the trunk, and you could just connect the wires in the trunk to just skip the oem amp, instead of running new wires. im not sure what this will sound like, especially without an amp. only the tweeters in the pillar are a little difficult to get to, the wires are very short.

Originally Posted by Guitano

So, if I do run 4 rear wires (from four corners) to single subwoofer (oem), I can connect 2 rights and 2 lefts from both channels together then connect to TWO of the four wires on subwoofer (red and white)?

you lost me on this one, the 4 rear wires from both rear speakers, or 1 wire from each corner (wont work)? the harness that comes with your headunit, should already have your four corners, which you can use. the oem setup takes the 2 pairs of wires coming from the rear speakers to use as inputs to the oem sub.

i would recommend just finding the cheapest amp you can get, even if it is used, something between 200w-500w, im sure you can find one for under $50. then you can get yourself a set of rca and some small power/ground kit. this way you can utilize one of your preamp sub outputs on your radio (i see two sub outs on your headunit, im not sure which you should use), which you will be able to better control your sound when you have some bass. then you can rewire your 4 corners into the wires on the headunit harness as these would be amplified by your new headunit, either rewiring or splicing in trunk however you choose.

make sure you solder all your wires/connections if you want it to sound clear.....