2002 Sentra 1.8, no spark, code 0505... [Archive] - B15sentra.net - Nissan Sentra Forum

: 2002 Sentra 1.8, no spark, code 0505...


lazymaritimer
11-04-2008, 09:22 AM
Hi,
This is my first post here. I have never had a problem with the car before (02 Sentra 1.8/auto), so I had no need to post for help! Car has ~130k kms. It sat for 3 days, and when I went to start it, it cranks but no spark. Lots of fuel so it is flooding. I used the self diagnostic feature to pull codes, but all that shows is 0505, which looks like it means nothing wrong. Car ran perfectly up to now. I pulled and tested all the plugs, and they are good. There is ZERO spark to any of the cylinders. ECM and Crank sensor were both replaced under recall, but not recently. Any idea of what else to check? What would kill spark but not fuel, and only show a code 0505? I am stumped! Thanks!

lazymaritimer
11-04-2008, 09:29 AM
OK, looking at the wrong list.... 0505 could mean Idle control circuit? Will this cause a no spark condition, and what exactly fails to trigger this?

Black B15
11-04-2008, 10:44 AM
You got power to everything else? Headlights, radio etc....?

Check all your fuses just to be sure, there are some under the dash and some under the hood as well.

So it showed you a code of "0505"? What does that mean, it blinked 10 times, 5 times, 10 times and 5 times? I assume you put it into diagnostic mode by following the instructions on this website.....just want to make sure you are following the blinks to the correct code.

lazymaritimer
11-04-2008, 10:57 AM
You got power to everything else? Headlights, radio etc....?

Check all your fuses just to be sure, there are some under the dash and some under the hood as well.

So it showed you a code of "0505"? What does that mean, it blinked 10 times, 5 times, 10 times and 5 times? I assume you put it into diagnostic mode by following the instructions on this website.....just want to make sure you are following the blinks to the correct code.

Everything else seems to have power, although I did not check headlights, or fuses. I retrieved the codes through the instructions in the forum here. I also have downloaded the FSM. The code blinked 10 slow, 5 fast, 10 fast and five fast, then repeated (0505, idle control circuit). I am not familiar with the Nissan ECM, so I don't know what might trip this code and cause a no spark condition. I was expecting a 335 or 340. If a crank or cam sensor failed while sitting, would a fault be triggered during cranking? I am wondering if the 0505 is related to the no spark at all. Will a fault 335 or 340 interrupt spark yet still cycle injectors normally? Thanks again!

lazymaritimer
11-05-2008, 06:51 PM
I tried cranking the car with both the cam and crank sensors unplugged, and then checked the codes, and none were recorded (other than the original p0505). Based on this information, the ECM does not record faults from these sensors during cranking. This is assuming that the ECM itself is not at fault. This might be useful info for others trying to diagnose a problem that didn't develop while the car was running?

lazymaritimer
11-13-2008, 02:07 PM
Anyone? Garage had the car for several days and say they can't find what is wrong. He did say he was getting a signal from crank sensor. help!

orangelloSE-R
11-13-2008, 02:10 PM
Can you see if the coilpacks are getting spark & work back from there?

lazymaritimer
11-13-2008, 02:42 PM
Can you see if the coilpacks are getting spark & work back from there?
The coil packs aren't producing spark, haven't confirmed they are getting signal.

lazymaritimer
11-14-2008, 10:34 AM
They do not appear to be getting a signal to fire. I am starting to suspect the ECM. It still "works" in that it will flash codes and light the MIL though.

orangelloSE-R
11-14-2008, 11:08 AM
Ouch, ECM = $$$. Do you know anybody with the same year & engine & tranny that would let you swap for a field test?

lazymaritimer
11-15-2008, 08:59 AM
New (used) ECM will be here Monday. I disconnected the ECM overnight and it still is showing a code 0505, even before cranking engine. Will the ECM hold a code that long while disconnected? I tried to clear codes by holding accelerator in code retrieval mode, but it wouldn't go away. Coil packs are NOT receiving voltage when key is on. I am going to try and see where the voltage is supposed to come from and start tracing backwards.

lazymaritimer
11-15-2008, 11:29 AM
OK, I followed all the troubleshooting procedures in the FSM, and I have found that I have about 3 volts going into my ECM relay. FSM says

"detect malfunctioning part"
Check the following.
Fuse and fusible link box connector E22
15A fuse
Harness for open and short between ECM relay and fuse

I have searched the FSM, and can't determine where these items are (fuse and fusible link). I can't believe I made it this far and am stumped!

lazymaritimer
11-15-2008, 05:08 PM
Duh, ok I see what the fusible links are. No problems there. I am used to fusible links being wires. I just need to find out where that one wire to the ECM relay goes and see why there is no voltage there....

orangelloSE-R
11-17-2008, 02:23 PM
Good luck man; i can't get my FSM to work, ATM.

lazymaritimer
11-21-2008, 09:24 AM
I managed to locate the problem. The wire running from the fuse block by the battery to the ECM relay is faulty. Once I bypassed the wire, the car ran fine. The wire would show voltage until the key turned on, then dropped to zero, indicating a bad connection somewhere. It seems unlikely I will find out where in the harness, so I have to run a new one. Given how the car is wired, I can't say I am surprised at this problem, but I am disappointed. Thanks to all those who responded, and I was very happy to find this site, it was a great resource.

Leusent
11-21-2008, 09:49 AM
Thanks for posting your solution! It really helps when others have the same problem and search for previous threads.

lazymaritimer
11-26-2008, 11:09 AM
Yeah, nothing worse than searching a forum, finding your exact problem, but no resolution. Further to my other posts, I isolated the wire break to being somewhere between the battery and firewall (under the hood). I found where the wire goes through the firewall (by the ECM) and just bypassed that portion so I didn't have to run a new wire through the firewall. I probably could have found the exact spot, but law of diminishing returns... it was just faster to re-run that part then dig endlessly through the harness. By the way, I am selling my spare crank sensor and ECM, it is in the classified section if anyone needs it.

orangelloSE-R
11-26-2008, 11:49 AM
Yeah, nothing worse than searching a forum, finding your exact problem, but no resolution. Further to my other posts, I isolated the wire break to being somewhere between the battery and firewall (under the hood). I found where the wire goes through the firewall (by the ECM) and just bypassed that portion so I didn't have to run a new wire through the firewall. I probably could have found the exact spot, but law of diminishing returns... it was just faster to re-run that part then dig endlessly through the harness. By the way, I am selling my spare crank sensor and ECM, it is in the classified section if anyone needs it.
I'm glad you tracked it down. I saw another CPS thread yesterday, i doubt you hold that spare sensor very long.

crazy95
12-23-2008, 11:16 AM
i'm having the same problem with my 2001 GXE. SES light will not come on when the key is in the acc On position. Car cranks but will not start. Just replaced the ignition switch thinking that would help but still no SES light. Where exactly is the ecm relay and the ecm itself? I'm new to Nissan's. :P

blue03gxe
12-30-2008, 09:35 AM
Lazymartimer, Hi, just registered, this is my first post. I'm having a similar problem with my 03 1.8L auto. with only a couple differences. Never had a problem until yesterday. Engine turns over but no fire and plugs are soaked with gas so it's flooding. 103k miles.
I changed the plugs at 100k and everything was fine. About 3 weeks ago (102k miles) the car began idling rough at startup, only on initial startup for the day when the engine was cold. After several days of that it started and died one day and set the CEL. I have a code scanner so I checked it and pulled a 0303 code (#3 cylinder misfire). I suspected a bad coil pack so I bought one and changed it although I'm not sure which cylinder is #3. I tried the second from the left and it didn't help. So yesterday I started it up, was missing, shut it down and swapped the new coil to another location and it hasn't started since. It will try to fire after cranking on it for 10-15 seconds but won't crank.
I bought the car with 95k on it so don't know what's been done in the past. Been getting 34 MPG consistently with no problems until recently. I'm going to check all the things you mention in this post and hopefully someone will read this and reply. Let me know what y'all think.

blue03gxe
12-30-2008, 09:39 AM
I forgot to mention, right now there are no codes present.

orangelloSE-R
12-30-2008, 11:08 AM
I suspected a bad coil pack so I bought one and changed it although I'm not sure which cylinder is #3. I tried the second from the left and it didn't help. So yesterday I started it up, was missing, shut it down and swapped the new coil to another location and it hasn't started since. It will try to fire after cranking on it for 10-15 seconds but won't crank.
OK, no offense for this dumb question, but when you said you "swapped the new coil to another location", you don't mean you just took it off the plug & plugged it onto the other plug, right? It is very important that the spark plugs are connected to the correct wire for that particular plug, so that cylinder will get its spark with its gas.

There isn't a blockage (dead rat) in the air intake, right?

blue03gxe
12-30-2008, 01:15 PM
No offense taken. No, I mean I removed the coil from one cylinder to another and plugged it in to it's respective connector.
Here's an update: I went out this morning and tried to start it. It almost cranked so I know it's getting fire; already knew I was getting good fuel. Pulled the plugs and they're covered with gas. These are Bosch Platinum +2. Went down to Advance and bought a set of NGK's (6376's), gapped them at .042, put everything back, and it started. Didn't crank right up, took a little bit of grinding, but it started and runs fine. No codes. Drove it down the road about 10 miles and it does fine. I'm hearing what I thought was a slight rattle that started about 2 weeks ago around the glove box. Seems to be inconsistent, goes away after the car's warmed up. After reading some other posts here I'm wondering about wiring and ECM problems.
Clues?

orangelloSE-R
12-30-2008, 01:29 PM
Glad you got it runnin!

I know the QR25's have had some ECU failures, but i'm not sure about the QG18's. Usually, it starts with constant limp mode moments & false SES codes, if i recall correctly. I have also, for a long time, heard that NGK is this car's preferred plug, though some use Autolites & change them often.

The heater core is kinda behind the glove box, i bleve; maybe it is rattling a bit?