Rough, Dropping Idle [Archive] - B15sentra.net - Nissan Sentra Forum

: Rough, Dropping Idle


brads sentra
03-22-2008, 04:50 PM
While sitting at a stop, the idle will drop to about 500 RPM, causing the car to shake, and then smooths itself out. It will do this on que probably every 20-30 seconds.

Checked all cylinders for coolant/oil - None
Spark Plugs look fine
Cleaned MAF Sensor
Butterflies loctited 40K ago
Tried idle relearn 5 times, which didn't help.
Reset ECM overnight

I was thinking of a vaccumm leak, but cannot find one.

***With A/C on, I cannot duplicate the dropping RPM's and rough idle, if that means anything***

Any ideas? Need help :confused:

henwon
03-22-2008, 05:08 PM
i have been experiencing this same thing for a while... i noticed earlier this year that when i was up in very high altitude the idle was very smooth no dropping at all once i was back at normal elevation it dropped again...

kktohot
03-22-2008, 06:03 PM
idk......just throwing something outta my arsh here.

Check the blue plug by the throttle body, make sure its connected correctly, thats the iac

RyanL
03-22-2008, 06:07 PM
Sounds like an intake air leak. Make sure that all of your hose clamps and throttle body bolts are good and tight. If that doesn't solve the issue, then your MAF might need to be cleaned/replaced.

brads sentra
03-22-2008, 06:16 PM
I do hear a slight hissing noise near the PCV hose, but I'm almost certain its not leaking.

The injectors are right behind the PCV hose, would one of these make a hissing type of noise if leaking, or is what I'm hearing normal?

RyanL
03-22-2008, 06:25 PM
It very well could be a leak that you are hearing. It only takes a pin sized hole to make the ECU throw that code (that code is basically saying that you are have unmetered air entering the system -in a round about way). Like I said before also, a slightly dirty MAF will act the same way.

brads sentra
03-22-2008, 06:33 PM
It very well could be a leak that you are hearing. It only takes a pin sized hole to make the ECU throw that code (that code is basically saying that you are have unmetered air entering the system -in a round about way). Like I said before also, a slightly dirty MAF will act the same way.

Cleaned the MAF yesterday thinking the same thing. Unless I didn't clean it well enough, I don't think thats it.

The car runs fantastic while driving. No loss of power, no oil loss, etc.

It's just at idle **Really frustarting I might add :mad: **

JJPHENOM
03-22-2008, 07:30 PM
might be a long shot but check the injectors, more than likely its a vacuum leak but injectors give the same effects

RyanL
03-22-2008, 07:33 PM
This is straight from the FSM as possible causes of P0300:
 Improper spark plug
 Insufficient compression
 Incorrect fuel pressure
 The injector circuit is open or shorted
 Fuel injector
 Intake air leak
 The ignition signal circuit is open or
shorted
 Lack of fuel
 Signal plate
 Heated oxygen sensor 1*1
 Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1*2
 Incorrect PCV hose connection
From the symtoms that you are describing, I'm still putting my money on intake air leak. That's the code that I would always get messing with throttle bodies and the intake. Like I said, it doesn't have to be very big at all to screw stuff up. I wouldn't dismiss this problem either since your air fuel ratio is most likely out of wack. You could even blow your motor at higher RPMs if it's too lean. Another note about the list of possible problems from the FSM, even though the MAF isn't listed, I wouldn't rule that one out since I've seen that problem throw that code before.

brads sentra
03-24-2008, 04:43 PM
This is straight from the FSM as possible causes of P0300:
 Improper spark plug
 Insufficient compression
 Incorrect fuel pressure
 The injector circuit is open or shorted
 Fuel injector
 Intake air leak
 The ignition signal circuit is open or
shorted
 Lack of fuel
 Signal plate
 Heated oxygen sensor 1*1
 Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1*2
 Incorrect PCV hose connection
From the symtoms that you are describing, I'm still putting my money on intake air leak. That's the code that I would always get messing with throttle bodies and the intake. Like I said, it doesn't have to be very big at all to screw stuff up. I wouldn't dismiss this problem either since your air fuel ratio is most likely out of wack. You could even blow your motor at higher RPMs if it's too lean. Another note about the list of possible problems from the FSM, even though the MAF isn't listed, I wouldn't rule that one out since I've seen that problem throw that code before.


I ordered a new PCV valve and PCV hose.

I'm hoping this corrects the problem, but I'm pessimisic by nature. :o

I noticed that the hose that connects to the PCV valve is extremely oily near the valve..... maybe slight leak?? I dunno.

orangelloSE-R
03-24-2008, 04:50 PM
I noticed that the hose that connects to the PCV valve is extremely oily near the valve..... maybe slight leak?? I dunno.
Well, i had some oil in my intake manifold when i stuck the butterflies & have read many similar reports & descriptions of people building "oil catch cans" & so forth, so i'm doubting the oil is unusual.

Black B15
03-24-2008, 04:52 PM
I ordered a new PCV valve and PCV hose.

I'm hoping this corrects the problem, but I'm pessimisic by nature. :o

I noticed that the hose that connects to the PCV valve is extremely oily near the valve..... maybe slight leak?? I dunno.

If it is the one i am thinking of..it will be oily right there. It is actually an EGR valve (even though we call it a PCV valve). EGR meaning Exhaust Gas Recirculation.....so in theory..it will have a certain amount of oil in the exhaust gas. At any rate...you should see some oil there! That is normal my man.

Black B15
03-24-2008, 04:53 PM
Well, i had some oil in my intake manifold when i stuck the butterflies & have read many similar reports & descriptions of people building "oil catch cans" & so forth, so i'm doubting the oil is unusual.
JUST beat me to it!:D

sentra001
03-24-2008, 06:00 PM
If it is the one i am thinking of..it will be oily right there. It is actually an EGR valve (even though we call it a PCV valve). EGR meaning Exhaust Gas Recirculation.....so in theory..it will have a certain amount of oil in the exhaust gas. At any rate...you should see some oil there! That is normal my man.

No....actually it is the Positve Crankcase Ventilation valve. And also "in theory", there is no oil in the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system. If you have oil in that valve, you have a problem. Besides, there can never be any oil in the system because the explosion happening in the cylinder would turn it into smoke (sort of speak).

brads sentra
03-24-2008, 07:42 PM
I think the key to this is that it idles fine with the A/C ON. A/C off, (hence fan not running) it happens like clockwork.

Any reason this does not happen with the A/C on?

orangelloSE-R
03-25-2008, 11:40 AM
I think the key to this is that it idles fine with the A/C ON. A/C off, (hence fan not running) it happens like clockwork.

Any reason this does not happen with the A/C on?
Cuz it's under load with the A/C on? Weird.

sentra001
03-25-2008, 07:09 PM
I am actually a third year apprentice and I can't figure that one. But I will ask my instructor tomorrow for you. I get back to ya!

kktohot
03-25-2008, 07:19 PM
Specs dont have an egr valve.

Thats just incase you read the last few posts, that is not possible to have anything to do with it

brads sentra
03-25-2008, 10:55 PM
Specs dont have an egr valve.

Thats just incase you read the last few posts, that is not possible to have anything to do with it

Right, but we have a PCV valve which I'm gonna replace as soon as I receive it, along with the hose.

Crossing my fingers, but if that doesn't fix it, I'm stumped.

sentra001
03-26-2008, 01:10 PM
I talked to my instructer and he seems to think it could be your "IAC- Idle Air Control" sensor. He suggest to start there. If you know how to use a multimeter, You will be able to get the reading off of the sensor to see if it is putting out the right amount of ohms resistance. Your looking for 10 ohms resistance. I'm not sure if your model has this sensor though. He also says your car realizes that the ac is on so it bumps up the idle to accomidate the extra load.

brads sentra
03-26-2008, 01:56 PM
I talked to my instructer and he seems to think it could be your "IAC- Idle Air Control" sensor. He suggest to start there. If you know how to use a multimeter, You will be able to get the reading off of the sensor to see if it is putting out the right amount of voltage signal. Your looking for 10 ohms resistance. I'm not sure if your model has this sensor though. He also says your car realizes that the ac is on so it bumps up the idle to accomidate the extra load.

Thanks for the help...... i don't think I have an IAC though.......

orangelloSE-R
03-26-2008, 01:59 PM
Thanks for the help...... i don't think I have an IAC though.......
I was thinkin it was called the idle air control valve on the QR?

sentra001
03-26-2008, 03:07 PM
I was thinkin it was called the idle air control valve on the QR?

Yeah....sorry, thats the one!

shanno575
03-26-2008, 03:17 PM
I was thinkin it was called the idle air control valve on the QR?
yeah, located in the tb

orangelloSE-R
03-26-2008, 03:26 PM
yeah, located in the tb
:eek: :eek: :eek: ITB! :eek: :eek: :p :D

shanno575
03-26-2008, 03:31 PM
yes orange! excited??!!

orangelloSE-R
03-26-2008, 03:33 PM
yes orange! excited??!!
Yes! I get to smoke in about 2 hours, c'mon grape swisher. :D

kktohot
03-26-2008, 04:07 PM
my 1st post said IAC....its the blue plug on the TB... i think it was the 2nd response

glad your prof backed me up on that one

sentracruiser02
03-26-2008, 04:15 PM
Clean out the IACV, It's probably clogged with gunk over the years and not reading accurately. I highly doubt the PCV had anything to do with stalling. Cars have plugged PCV's all the time and still run.

orangelloSE-R
03-26-2008, 04:18 PM
Clean out the IACV, It's probably clogged with gunk over the years and not reading accurately. I highly doubt the PCV had anything to do with stalling. Cars have plugged PCV's all the time and still run.
Actually, a clogged PCV contributed to a transmission failure on my '91 exploder, but that WAS a ford.

sentracruiser02
03-26-2008, 04:23 PM
Actually, a clogged PCV contributed to a transmission failure on my '91 exploder, but that WAS a ford.
Really? I don't see the connection. Not saying a clogged PCV is good but I thought it just lead to seals blowing/leaking since the crankcase isn't properly vented. Did they say how it lead to tranny failure?

Actually I retract my statement, sort of, I guess if there was a bad seal in the hose connecting to the intake manifold, it could cause a vacuum leak. But I don't think the PCV itself would cause stalling.

brads sentra
03-26-2008, 06:53 PM
Clean out the IACV, It's probably clogged with gunk over the years and not reading accurately. I highly doubt the PCV had anything to do with stalling. Cars have plugged PCV's all the time and still run.

Car's not stalling. RPM's drop down to about 500, and the car shakes a bit, then regains itself.

There's a roughER idle across the board, but not like a hard misfire idle........

MarcAtArkon
03-26-2008, 07:03 PM
Silly question: When is the last time you did the idle relearn, and did you do the TB and pedal relearn as well?

brads sentra
03-27-2008, 12:46 AM
Silly question: When is the last time you did the idle relearn, and did you do the TB and pedal relearn as well?

Did all three a couple times...... same result.

:(

orangelloSE-R
03-27-2008, 11:23 AM
Did they say how it lead to tranny failure?
It actually took the geniuses at two different ford stealerships a few months to figure it out. The vehicle would randomly jerk like it was experiencing a fuel cutoff or hitting a lil ole lady or something. Apparently a few months of this was enough to lead to a failure of the synchro on 2nd gear. Of course, the tranny failed 600 miles after warranty coverage, FTL.

sentracruiser02
03-27-2008, 12:21 PM
Car's not stalling. RPM's drop down to about 500, and the car shakes a bit, then regains itself.

There's a roughER idle across the board, but not like a hard misfire idle........
Oh ok, I thought it was stalling. Have you tried cleaning the IACV yet? If it isn't reading correctly it can cause a rough idle. Sometimes cleaning it can resolve the issue.

brads sentra
03-28-2008, 11:31 AM
Oh ok, I thought it was stalling. Have you tried cleaning the IACV yet? If it isn't reading correctly it can cause a rough idle. Sometimes cleaning it can resolve the issue.

The iacv is the blue plug on the tb?

If so, that's a sensor and not a valve correct?

How do you clean it?

sentracruiser02
03-28-2008, 11:36 AM
I'm not entirely sure where it is on the QR because I have a QG. Do you have a copy of the FSM? As for cleaning it, some people use brake cleaner, I'd just use some CRC electronics/MAF cleaner. Just spray the crap out of it until it looks clean. Let it dry and reintall.

brads sentra
03-28-2008, 05:27 PM
I'm not entirely sure where it is on the QR because I have a QG. Do you have a copy of the FSM? As for cleaning it, some people use brake cleaner, I'd just use some CRC electronics/MAF cleaner. Just spray the crap out of it until it looks clean. Let it dry and reintall.

I pulled the blue plug and I must say, it looks pretty clean. I'd rather not blast it with CRC if it's visually clean.......

sentra001
03-30-2008, 01:29 AM
I pulled the blue plug and I must say, it looks pretty clean. I'd rather not blast it with CRC if it's visually clean.......


Thats the wiring connector to the soleniod. Clean the valvel. The wiring connector controls the solenoid which in return controls the valve. The valve is behind the soleiniod.

brads sentra
03-30-2008, 11:56 AM
Thats the wiring connector to the soleniod. Clean the valvel. The wiring connector controls the solenoid which in return controls the valve. The valve is behind the soleiniod.

How to I get to the valve? Through the tb itself? Or is there something to remove near this blue plug?

sentra001
03-30-2008, 12:14 PM
How to I get to the valve? Through the tb itself? Or is there something to remove near this blue plug?


I would imagine through the tb, but can't say for sure. I have the 2.0L so I can't walk you through it....sorry

RyanL
04-02-2008, 07:21 PM
Reading all of these BS posts is giving me a god damn headache. Quite literally. One, the 2.5 Sentra does not have an idle air control valve. At alll! Stop listening to people telling you to spray brake cleaner (or whatever) into the throttle body and connectors and crap. You are going to ruin it. Two, the 2.5 Sentra does not have any kind of exhaust recirculation valve either. You shouldn't have to do an idle relearn for no reason. Help us help you. Tell us what mods you have done (most importantly the recent ones). Do you have a cold air intake? Those don't do anything but ruin mass air flow sensors. Are you positive that you don't have any intake air leaks? Like I said before, the smallest ones will cause issues. I've seen it several times where people swear up and down that they don't have an intake leak and one of their hose clamps isn't tightened all the way.

nyterider
04-02-2008, 07:42 PM
I had the exact same problem (rough idle but car drives perfect). I sprayed the maf and nothing happened. Today I disconnected the harness (to the maf) and the idle was stable. I'm looking for a decent place to order a new maf but atleast now I know thats most likely what my problem is and it only took me 5 mins. I'm no expert but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try.

brads sentra
04-02-2008, 10:08 PM
Reading all of these BS posts is giving me a god damn headache. Quite literally. One, the 2.5 Sentra does not have an idle air control valve. At alll! Stop listening to people telling you to spray brake cleaner (or whatever) into the throttle body and connectors and crap. You are going to ruin it. Two, the 2.5 Sentra does not have any kind of exhaust recirculation valve either. You shouldn't have to do an idle relearn for no reason. Help us help you. Tell us what mods you have done (most importantly the recent ones). Do you have a cold air intake? Those don't do anything but ruin mass air flow sensors. Are you positive that you don't have any intake air leaks? Like I said before, the smallest ones will cause issues. I've seen it several times where people swear up and down that they don't have an intake leak and one of their hose clamps isn't tightened all the way.

I figured, because the blue plug I seen is NEAR the TB, but looks like its connected to where the fuel lines come in.

I've double and triple checked for vaccumm leaks. Cannot find one.

So here's the deal, and hopefully this helps.

I had the most recent ECM recall performed. That day, the idle started acting up, and displaying the same symptoms I've described.........

Kind of a choppy idle, and every 30-60 seconds while at a complete stop, the idle will dip to 500 RPM, shake a bit like it wants to stall, then slowly move back up to about 700 RPM. This repeats over and over.

I brought it back to the dealer the next day, and they stated that they need to do the idle relearn. They do the idle relearn, and I'm on my way with no problems.

--- Recent install - MMI's. ---

A week or so after the MMI's, the same EXACT symptoms started happening again.

Went to the dealer today, they told me it must be the idle relearn again. They completed it, and what do you know, on my way home, symptoms produced themselves again.

I'm lost guys. I'm guessing it has to do with the ECM recall, because that is when this originally happened. What to do............................ :confused:

kktohot
04-02-2008, 10:22 PM
The iacv is the blue plug on the tb?

yes

If so, that's a sensor and not a valve correct?

yes just a plug

How do you clean it?

spray brake cleaner on it



read above

tonymc
04-04-2008, 07:22 AM
I ordered a new throttle body and new hoses, throttle body was on ebay from a junkyard with lifetime gaurentee 60$. Looked brand new. All the hoses cost me ten bucks at advanced auto parts. I had the same issues as you. spent 86 dollars including the gasket and shipping. Problem solved. Forget cleaning the tb, once you take it off the clean with BRAKE CLEANER, you just f'ed it more.

brads sentra
04-04-2008, 08:20 AM
I ordered a new throttle body and new hoses, throttle body was on ebay from a junkyard with lifetime gaurentee 60$. Looked brand new. All the hoses cost me ten bucks at advanced auto parts. I had the same issues as you. spent 86 dollars including the gasket and shipping. Problem solved. Forget cleaning the tb, once you take it off the clean with BRAKE CLEANER, you just f'ed it more.

Same symptoms?

Were you throwing any codes?

RyanL
04-04-2008, 04:39 PM
Same symptoms?

Were you throwing any codes?
He didn't have the same symtoms because he has a totally different car besides the chasis (totally different ECU, totally different motor, totally different throttle body (his has a throttle cable), totally different MAF, etc., etc.). And that blue thing that you mentioned earlier is the throttle body wiring harness connector. It sounds like the stealership messed up your ECU by doing the reprogramming. In retrospect, I think the exact same thing happened to me a couple of years back (well my problem was a little more severe than yours - mine would randomly go into limp mode out of the clear blue, but it was all TPS related). My woes started shortly after a visit to the stealership to get that infamous ECU reprogram done for the precat issues (which doesn't do a fvcking thing by the way). I went through a lot of BS to figure out that it was in fact the ECU that was causing the problems. I'm actually kind of glad to hear that someone had a similar expierience from this recall work because I always suspected that it had something to do with it, but I just dismissed the issue being from all of the heat that summer. If they tried to do the idle relearn flash several times and it's not taking, I have to say that your ECU is definitely toasted. I would go back up there and demand that they make sh1t right by replacing the ECU. By the way, if you still have that damned god precat on that QR, either rip it off and put a header on there or at least gut it. Since our motors don't have an EGR valve, they are designed to suck exhaust gasses (or whatever else is floating around in your exhaust manifold like precat matter or butterfly screws!) back into the combustion chambers. Good luck (you'll definitely need it!).

brads sentra
04-04-2008, 05:11 PM
He didn't have the same symtoms because he has a totally different car besides the chasis (totally different ECU, totally different motor, totally different throttle body (his has a throttle cable), totally different MAF, etc., etc.). And that blue thing that you mentioned earlier is the throttle body wiring harness connector. It sounds like the stealership messed up your ECU by doing the reprogramming. In retrospect, I think the exact same thing happened to me a couple of years back (well my problem was a little more severe than yours - mine would randomly go into limp mode out of the clear blue, but it was all TPS related). My woes started shortly after a visit to the stealership to get that infamous ECU reprogram done for the precat issues (which doesn't do a fvcking thing by the way). I went through a lot of BS to figure out that it was in fact the ECU that was causing the problems. I'm actually kind of glad to hear that someone had a similar expierience from this recall work because I always suspected that it had something to do with it, but I just dismissed the issue being from all of the heat that summer. If they tried to do the idle relearn flash several times and it's not taking, I have to say that your ECU is definitely toasted. I would go back up there and demand that they make sh1t right by replacing the ECU. By the way, if you still have that damned god precat on that QR, either rip it off and put a header on there or at least gut it. Since our motors don't have an EGR valve, they are designed to suck exhaust gasses (or whatever else is floating around in your exhaust manifold like precat matter or butterfly screws!) back into the combustion chambers. Good luck (you'll definitely need it!).

Thanks for the reply.

Header has been on since day one, as well as the BF screws loctited.

Going BACK to the dealer on Monday for the 4th time, for them to figure this out. Rediculous.

Will see what happens. :(

RyanL
04-04-2008, 06:04 PM
Thanks for the reply.

Header has been on since day one, as well as the BF screws loctited.

Going BACK to the dealer on Monday for the 4th time, for them to figure this out. Rediculous.

Will see what happens. :(
Also ask those idiots why they did the recall if the precat was gone, assuming that that's what the recall was for.

brads sentra
04-05-2008, 02:00 PM
Also ask those idiots why they did the recall if the precat was gone, assuming that that's what the recall was for.

No, this is the most recent recall regarding the engine shutting off while driving

ZHSSKZ
04-19-2008, 02:49 PM
I'm curious to see how your situation is going. I have been experiencing similar symptoms and have had no luck. Just curious to see if you found a solution. Good Luck!!

gil

NOTKT
04-26-2008, 08:41 PM
Yeah, I'd like to know how this turned out as well. I just got done doing the butterfly screw stick job, and I'm having a very similar problem. No SES light as of yet. The idle drop happens precisely every 30 seconds (I've timed it several times). I had not disconnected the battery, so I'd think an idle relearn shouldn't be necessary...

NOTKT
04-26-2008, 10:58 PM
Alright, I figured it out. There is a very small vacuum hose on the firewall side of the throttle body, the fitting for which points straight down. I had neglected to reinstall that hose after doing the butterfly screw stick. Put it back on, and she purrs like a kitten! That hose must be a vacuum feed for one of the sensors in the throttle body, which would explain why the vacuum problem was acting like a sensor problem.

All is now well again in Sentra land!

brads sentra
04-27-2008, 12:47 AM
I'm curious to see how your situation is going. I have been experiencing similar symptoms and have had no luck. Just curious to see if you found a solution. Good Luck!!

gil

I've had to get Nissan Corporate involved. The car is going back to Nissan for the 4th time on Monday. I can almost guarentee that something f'ed up the ECM when they did the recall. I'm gonna demand they at least swap the ECM for a new one to see if the problem goes away. :mad:

RyanL
04-29-2008, 04:07 PM
I've had to get Nissan Corporate involved. The car is going back to Nissan for the 4th time on Monday. I can almost guarentee that something f'ed up the ECM when they did the recall. I'm gonna demand they at least swap the ECM for a new one to see if the problem goes away. :mad:
Good luck with that man! I tried something like that a few years ago when I was having precat issues and a couple of other things. I think that I was talking with someone in India or some sh1t. I kept on going round and round with them. They just kept on repeating the same damn crap over and over and over (like they only have a few different phrases which they knew how to say. The verdict was that since my vehicle wasn't under warranty, I was SOL. I absolutely hate Nissan. I would never recommend Nissan even to my worst enemy. Everything from their build quality to the way that they deal with their costumers is a fvcking joke!

RyanL
04-29-2008, 04:11 PM
Alright, I figured it out. There is a very small vacuum hose on the firewall side of the throttle body, the fitting for which points straight down. I had neglected to reinstall that hose after doing the butterfly screw stick. Put it back on, and she purrs like a kitten! That hose must be a vacuum feed for one of the sensors in the throttle body, which would explain why the vacuum problem was acting like a sensor problem.

All is now well again in Sentra land!
That little vacuum hose in the rear goes to the solenoid which opens up your secondaries. I know that I've said this one over and over a thousand times, but with the system that we have in these newer Nissans (drive by wire), the absolute smallest vacuum leaks will cause havoc and misfires.

brads sentra
04-29-2008, 04:35 PM
Good luck with that man! I tried something like that a few years ago when I was having precat issues and a couple of other things. I think that I was talking with someone in India or some sh1t. I kept on going round and round with them. They just kept on repeating the same damn crap over and over and over (like they only have a few different phrases which they knew how to say. The verdict was that since my vehicle wasn't under warranty, I was SOL. I absolutely hate Nissan. I would never recommend Nissan even to my worst enemy. Everything from their build quality to the way that they deal with their costumers is a fvcking joke!

Yah, there pulling the whole "you have modifications" bullish, which is what they've been pulling. Also, they say my fuel pressure is at 60 PSI, which apparently is way too high. They wanted to rip open the fuel pump to see if it too, is "aftermarket". I picked my car back up. Unbelievable. I have the regional manager that I've been dealing with trying to convince them to just swap in another ECM to see what happens. We'll see. :(

RyanL
04-29-2008, 08:01 PM
Just back in there when there is whole bunch of costumers in the service department (Saturdays are usually good days to go) and make a good old scene. "My fvcking car ran fine before you idiots did that recall work to my car!" And threaten to sue. They'll do the work just to shut you up. Has anyone else on here had any bad experiences with the service department at this dealership on this board? Maybe you all could complain about the service manager to Nissan to get him fired or something.

brads sentra
04-29-2008, 10:54 PM
After reading upon reading and 5 weeks of dealing with these morons, look what I found on Nissan's tech site........


Service Bulletin - NTB04015 2002-2003 Sentra/Altima
IF YOU CONFIRM: An applied vehicle has the following symptoms: Engine RPM rises at start and then drops and cannot maintain idle OR Engine has low/rough idle AND Engine runs well if the throttle is held open NOTE: The above symptoms may occur after an ECM reprogram or the vehicle battery was run down (discharged). ACTIONS: Conduct the "Engine Running and Warm Up" procedure Perform the "Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL)" procedure If the IAVL does not finish ("CMPLT"), perform the "Corrected Idle RPM Check". Then, perform the IAVL procedure again. Refer to the Service Procedure starting on page 2 for details


***This is EXACTLY what I'm experiencing***

Key is this quote "NOTE: The above symptoms may occur after an ECM reprogram"

I am fuming with anger. It's apparent they may have tried this procedure, it didn't work, so they automattically blame my mods and try to get paid.

I cannot wait to see what they have to say tommorrow. :mad:

brads sentra
07-20-2008, 03:26 PM
So it ended up being my MAF. Car finally threw a code, and went to limp mode.

Replaced the MAF, and cured the dropping idle. :D

I hope this saves someone the frustration I went through.

Projectb15
07-21-2008, 05:36 PM
i would disagree with everyone's input about running brake cleaner on the sensor, wd-40 works a little better than brake cleaner, safer on electronic components. It may be more sophisticated than just a clean, it may have a bunch of carbon build up, but the motor may not be running correctly inside the controller, mine was just cleaned and after everyone puts on a header at least for the 1.8's end up having idling issues.

4218kris
09-15-2008, 05:16 PM
i can drive my car for awhile sometimes like a week then when trying to hold a mph it will get jumpy like opening the throttle a little more then after just after it goes in to limp mode even pressing the gas seems to make it go slower it has a new tb and maf my best guess is short in the wiring or the ecu as ryanl said