2000 Nissan Idle Air Control Valve prob. [Archive] - B15sentra.net - Nissan Sentra Forum

: 2000 Nissan Idle Air Control Valve prob.

04-04-2006, 01:39 PM
I am having an issue with my Idle Air control valve that keeps on returning a code 0505 when I had it checked at AutoZone and another car parts place. I have tried to clean it out with Throttle Body cleaner and it keeps popping the code up. Is it possible that the IAC valve has gone bad? Any idea's on other things I might check on?:confused:

04-04-2006, 02:13 PM
yes it is possible that it went bad

04-04-2006, 02:15 PM
does it idle normally?

04-04-2006, 02:34 PM
Yes, it does idle normally. Not rough or skipping at all.

04-04-2006, 02:46 PM
I just tried cleaning mine last week and I have the same problem, only I put a gasket on wrong so I really had a problem. I put the gasket back on correct and the light has yet to go out. I'm going to clear it tonight when i get home and see if it stays off.

04-04-2006, 08:38 PM
Mine was replaced last week. Luckily it was under warranty. My car showed signs of high idle and would fluctuate from high (1200 rpm) to 850 or so. I was getting a P0505 code and thought it was a lose hose but it turned out to be the IACV.

04-04-2006, 10:05 PM
I just tried cleaning mine last week and I have the same problem, only I put a gasket on wrong so I really had a problem. I put the gasket back on correct and the light has yet to go out. I'm going to clear it tonight when i get home and see if it stays off.

Well ##&*$*&@#&! My luck would have it that I tried to clean mine tonight. Welp, guess I will be purchasing a new one in the morning. :mad: This sucks. Was going good, pulled the IACV off and noticed quite a bit of carbon build up on it. I got out my can of intake cleaner spray and cleaned the carbon off. I then proceeded to put the IACV back on and then crank it up. It started reving up really high, 1500 to 2000 in park and then about 1000 to 1500 while in drive. When I would step on the gas, it would only do about 3000 rpm and then sound like it was going to die and just rev back up to like 1500 to 2000. This is the most frustrating thing in the world. At least I can always drive my company car in the meanwhile. Thanks to the fact that this is a "dealer" only item, I can't get it from AutoZone or any other parts place. The local Nissan dealer wants $165 for an IACV and $3.90 for the gasket. :mad: Oh well. Can't win them everytime I guess. I hope that this is the only problem that I have with this situation.

04-04-2006, 11:20 PM
Have you checked to make sure its not leaking? Spray some carb cleaner on it while its idling, and see if the motor revs up. If it does then you have an intake leak, which will display some of the symptoms your describing.

04-05-2006, 12:18 AM
maybe try the idle air relearn trick. cant hurt.

04-05-2006, 02:04 AM
did you guys disconnect the battery before doing this?

04-05-2006, 07:22 AM
I checked all hoses and also checked to make sure that there was not a leak around the IACV also. What is the "idle air relearn trick"? Yes, I disconnected my battery for a little more than an hour.

04-05-2006, 08:01 AM
I have the same symptoms, and am getting the P0505 code as well.
It's going to the dealer to figure out what parts I'll replace tomorrow- I'll let you know if it's also my IACV.

04-05-2006, 09:14 AM
When I first did it I put the rubber seal on wrong, and it gave me the exact symtoms as above. I would take it apart, and look at the FSM to make sure you put it back together right.

I cleared my SES light last night and have had no more problems.

04-07-2006, 06:13 AM
I hate to sound stupid, but what is the FSM?

04-07-2006, 06:19 AM
factory service manual

04-07-2006, 07:58 AM
Well, I got lucky. For the price of a diagnosis, they did a base idle relearn and that solved everything. No parts needed:D
They thought I had a turbo because of My Compustar features, and I've disabled the hood latch so they couldn't get it open. I wish!...:p

04-07-2006, 10:33 AM
could of done the relearn your self for free and less then 3 minutes of time.
"Well here is the procedure for anyone else that might need it....



It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit has a malfunction.
Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning".
Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning".
Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
Check that all items listed under the topic "PRE-CONDITIONING" (previously mentioned) are in good order.

Turn ignition switch "OFF" and wait at least 10 seconds .
Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch "ON" and wait 3 seconds .
Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds .
Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
Fully release the accelerator pedal.
Wait 7 seconds , fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
Start engine and let it idle.
Wait 20 seconds .

Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, the result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the problem by referring to the "Diagnostic Procedure" below.
If idle air volume learning cannot be performed successfully, proceed as follows:

Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
Check PCV valve operation.
Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.
When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable. Check and eliminate the cause of the problem. It is useful to perform "TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS - SPECIFICATION VALUE".
If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the problem and perform "Idle air volume learning" all over again:
Engine stalls.
Erroneous idle."

either way how much was the diagnosis fee?

04-11-2006, 08:30 AM
I am giving an update and asking for more help with my problem. I replaced the IAC Valve last night. My brother in his infinate wisdom while I was in the house eating dinner desided that he would take stuff off and clean it. He removed what I believe is the throttle position sensor or something along that line. A short description of what it looks like is it has 2 connectors that plug into it. One on top of the other, they are red and grey colored. He removed that sensor or whatever that is. Since then, the car will not idle correctly. I can get it close, but nothing perfect. It idles in park at about 1,100 RPM. When you put it in drive it idles at about 800 RPM. When I accelerate and it gets to about 1,500 RPM, the engine lurches and bogs down until you press the accelerator pedel down more. I have tried the fix that ghost_ryder35 has posted, but I could not see anything blinking when I was pressing the pedel down. Can someone point me in the direction I need to go? I think it has something to do with that thing my brother took off and then put back on incorrectly. I looked at it and I really do not know how it was before he took it off. Any help would be very appriciated.

04-11-2006, 08:48 AM
can you take a picture of how he put the connectors back on, maybe they are reveresed. Also make sure that with the IACV that the metal seal goes on first, then the rubber gasket, that rubber gasket provide a seal before the metal one. That was the problem with mine.

04-11-2006, 08:58 AM
The connectors are correctly plugged in. The plastic casing around them do not allow them to be plugged into the wrong place. As for the gasket, that was put on correctly also in that order.

04-11-2006, 08:59 AM
and what is the ses code you are getting?

04-11-2006, 09:26 AM
Not sure what this one is. I have a friend that works at Autozone and he is going to bring a code reader over and reset my code and we'll see what it throws me.

04-11-2006, 05:53 PM
OK, I went in today and had the codes run on my car. It reported 2 codes. P0505 "Idle Control System Malfunction" and P0460 "Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Malfunction". My car still bogs down and sounds like it is going to go dead and sputters at about 1,500 RPM until I give it more gas and then it takes off. Almost sounds sometimes like the trans is slipping, but it is not. I have tried to clear the codes using the method posted earlier, but was not able to do so. Autozone would not clear the codes for me either. BLAH! Any ideas?